Has anyone built on the newer Rainshadow RX10 Eternity Blank yet? I am in the process of my first and having issues with the new decals. They are too large and not sticky. Almost remind me of static cling window decorations. Wanted to see if anyone had suggestions of getting one to apply clean without edges coming up? I have went through both included with the rod and neither want to stick to the rod.
I've built one, The stickers are pretty big but I didn't have any problems getting it to stick. I'm pretty sure I just put it on the blank too (not on a layer of finish). I built the 7'2" MH. I haven't gotten a chance to fish it yet but really like what I felt. If yours is the same model let me know and I can send you the extra label I have.
Im building a 7'4" H. I think they will be good blanks just not happy with the decals.
Call Batson. Last time I called to ask a question, got to talk to Bill. I bet they will send you some more.
2013 BassCat Cougar
Serial # 1B962763
Please send a quick email to warranty@batsonenterprises.com. We'll get you fixed up..
The Best Fishing Rods Start Here: www.BatsonEnterprises.com - www.youtube.com/batsonenterprises - Instagram: @teamrainshadow - Facebook: Batson Enterprises
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Funny you should mention the problem you are having with the decal. I was having trouble getting this Alabama decal to stick and I finally put a little Elmers glue on the back of it. I am letting it dry for at least 24 hours before attempting thread epoxy over it. Now I am not sure if this would work on a clear decal that you could see through .
You can cut the decals to fit, waterslide, or peel and stick.
Thank you just sent an email.Originally Posted by Batson-Brands
Is there any trick to getting them to stick? Do I need a layer of epoxy down first and they stick to the epoxy? I even placed one and wrapped thread up it and let it sit a few hours. As soon as I removed the thread the edges started coming up.
It occurred to me that you may be attempting to get the clear backing to adhere to the blank. The Eternity RX10 decals are a bit fancier and more advanced than other Rainshadow decals in that the clear backing is not part of the finished decal. It's just a transfer medium for the die cut decal artwork it holds, and is not intended to remain on the blank.
The clear transfer takes the die cut art off the paper backing > clear transfer is aligned on the blank > then pressure is applied across the backing (press/rub firmly over all artwork) > clear transfer is removed and die cut art remains and is ready for finish coat.
Tips:
1. After the clear transfer is applied to the blank, but before you begin removing the clear transfer, you can improve the adhesion in the die cut artwork by applied some MILD heat to the clear transfer on the blank. I personally use a lighter and sweep it back and forth a couple inches from the transfer. Careful, you are "playing with fire" using this method and can quickly cook the entire decal if too much heat is applied.
2. If the die cut art is lifting off the blank when removing the clear transfer, STOP, press the offending art back to the blank, then try removing the clear transfer from another direction.
I went to the warehouse applied one using the steps above. I'm not a pro rod builder (just an amateur hack from marketing) and the process went well, see below. I hope this helps out. I'll also ask our product folks to review the Eternity RX10 packaging for adequate instructions. Thanks
Eternity Decal.jpg
The Best Fishing Rods Start Here: www.BatsonEnterprises.com - www.youtube.com/batsonenterprises - Instagram: @teamrainshadow - Facebook: Batson Enterprises
That has likely been my issue. I left the top on. It just felt/looked as 1 piece not something that should be removed.
I did the same thing tonight on the decal on my first RX 10 build. Didn't even realize there was a clear transfer until I decided to read the instructionsThat has likely been my issue. I left the top on. It just felt/looked as 1 piece not something that should be removed.. I like these better than the old style decal.
2019 BCB Classic
Merc V8 200 4S
Figured I'd piggyback in this thread.
I've got 2 of these blanks to build. The 74 H and the 72MH.
The previous version 72MH is one of my favorite blanks! It just felt right!
Anyone fished these yet? Any impressions?
I haven't fished it yet but it does feel great. My impression is that it's going to be one of those MHF sticks that's going to do a lot of things well.
I am getting ready to order a 72 MH, which guides are you using. thanks
I have built 2 of the 7'2" MH. I used Fuji k series on both. One I used Titanium Torzite the other I used CC Alconite. The one with Torizite was for my buddy who claims there is a difference.
I built myself the RX 10 MH 6'8". I am a short guy. It quickly has become my favourite rod, and just ordered another to build for myself again. I used the Alps titanium guides with zirconium inserts. Also built the 7'2" for my friend who loves his.
2019 BCB Classic
Merc V8 200 4S
Thanks for the replies, I am just getting started in building, having a hard time understanding guide sizes, what size guide train for a braid to leader build do i need
Here is a good starting point: https://www.fujitackle.eu/files/fuji_kr_concept.pdf
while this isn’t gospel, it’ll set you in the right direction. I used 5s for my running guides on a NFC XRay SJ736 that I built as a light pitching and Texas rig rod. With an Alberto knot, the tag end sometimes catches and if I had to do it over I’d prob try 5.5s or 6s. I’m using 30lb braid to 12 and 15lb test leader. I believe I did 10, 6, to 5s in SiC for my train. They were out of the 5.5kbs
imo 5s are the perfect intermediate size that’s inbetween micro and conventional sizing.
For Fuji, Fazlite would be the most economical, Alconite is the best bang for your buck, SiC is supposedly lighter and denser than Alconite although some argue the doesn’t outweigh performance over Alconite. Torzite is the flagship line.
KW are the reduction guides
KBs means fuji belly guides
KTs are the running guides
Pacbay, CRB, American Tackle, and Alps all have their own versions of these guides as well. The best advice I could give is just do as much reading and research. It’s ok to make mistakes because it just makes your next rod that much better.
for placement, good rule of thumb is to place the first guide 20-22” from the reel, then static test to fine tune the placement.
Last edited by ECobb91; 07-24-2022 at 08:07 AM.
1995 Ranger 481v
1995 Johnson Fast Strike 175hp
I will say it depends on if you plan on the knot coming through the guides or if it will stay outside them with short leader. If it will stay outside I am a fan of micro guides. I typically do a 7 kw, a 6kb, 5kb, 4.5kb, and finish out with 4kt. Could probably drop to a 6kw. But if you are going to bring the knot through the guides you might need larger depending on your knot. Mudhole seems to be a fan of doing like a 6kw or double foot then 5.5kb, a 5kb, then finish out with 5kt. But as ECobb said that might still be to small.
I have been doing a lot of reading, thanks for the info on the fuji lettering and the link
I usually use a longer leader with a Fg knot, don't really have an issue with it coming thru the guides with what I am using, using a mojo bass in MH for a worm rod, not sure what size guides are on it and not sure how to measure
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