Thread: Blade issues

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  1. #1
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    Blade issues

    Yesterday’s air temp warmed up to 53 w/ water @ 42. Poles a bit slow to deploy. (Guess because of cold fluid) Power Pole Blade will not retract very easily. Fluid a tad low, but shouldn’t be low enough to cause the issues I’m seeing. Suggestions? And, is conventional hyd fluid (ISO32) compatible with the “green” Hyd fluid Power Pole uses?
    ’13 21 HP, 250 ProXS, 10” Atlas, twin Power Poles, 25p Croxtonized Tempest, 2 1/2 PTP, 1/2 tank fuel, driver, all gear, empty wells, 74.7 in 102 deg heat.

  2. BBC SPONSOR/ Shallow Water Anchors Moderator
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    #2
    Can use any iso 32 , however do not mix, when's last time fluid was changed. Could be clogged screens . Fluid should be changed every 12 to 18 months.

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    #3
    This happened to me also along with the pump sounding like it was trying to pump razor blades. Changed the oil in both and cleaned the baseplate of the the pump assembly and the reservoir and they work like new right now. Be careful on the bottom of the pump assembly as the screens are not the strongest.

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    #4
    Quote Originally Posted by KandKKustomz View Post
    Can use any iso 32 , however do not mix, when's last time fluid was changed. Could be clogged screens . Fluid should be changed every 12 to 18 months.
    Bought the rig in April, 3rd owner. I’d bet they’ve never had fluid change..
    ’13 21 HP, 250 ProXS, 10” Atlas, twin Power Poles, 25p Croxtonized Tempest, 2 1/2 PTP, 1/2 tank fuel, driver, all gear, empty wells, 74.7 in 102 deg heat.

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    #5
    Quote Originally Posted by Rangerdeepv View Post
    This happened to me also along with the pump sounding like it was trying to pump razor blades. Changed the oil in both and cleaned the baseplate of the the pump assembly and the reservoir and they work like new right now. Be careful on the bottom of the pump assembly as the screens are not the strongest.
    Well,, guess that’s my next project.. thanks for the info
    ’13 21 HP, 250 ProXS, 10” Atlas, twin Power Poles, 25p Croxtonized Tempest, 2 1/2 PTP, 1/2 tank fuel, driver, all gear, empty wells, 74.7 in 102 deg heat.

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    #6
    Quote Originally Posted by Rangerdeepv View Post
    This happened to me also along with the pump sounding like it was trying to pump razor blades. Changed the oil in both and cleaned the baseplate of the the pump assembly and the reservoir and they work like new right now. Be careful on the bottom of the pump assembly as the screens are not the strongest.
    Did you go back with the “green” fluid or conventional?
    ’13 21 HP, 250 ProXS, 10” Atlas, twin Power Poles, 25p Croxtonized Tempest, 2 1/2 PTP, 1/2 tank fuel, driver, all gear, empty wells, 74.7 in 102 deg heat.

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    #7
    Thanks for the info everyone. What perplexes me is why we need to change the fluid as mentioned above.. Does the “Green” fluid break down or something? Been around hydraulics all my life and understand them quite well. So, with that said,, I know contamination can have some adverse effects and cause failures.. Hyd fluid is cheaper than damaged pumps / cylinders!
    ’13 21 HP, 250 ProXS, 10” Atlas, twin Power Poles, 25p Croxtonized Tempest, 2 1/2 PTP, 1/2 tank fuel, driver, all gear, empty wells, 74.7 in 102 deg heat.

  8. BBC SPONSOR/ Shallow Water Anchors Moderator
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    #8
    Quote Originally Posted by clayc View Post
    Thanks for the info everyone. What perplexes me is why we need to change the fluid as mentioned above.. Does the “Green” fluid break down or something? Been around hydraulics all my life and understand them quite well. So, with that said,, I know contamination can have some adverse effects and cause failures.. Hyd fluid is cheaper than damaged pumps / cylinders!
    green marine fluid is vegetable base fluid making it evironmentally safe , so yes breaks down turns to what we call
    ( snot). simple easy to change just part of maintenance. Change mine every 12 to 18 months never a issue.

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    #9
    Quote Originally Posted by KandKKustomz View Post
    green marine fluid is vegetable base fluid making it evironmentally safe , so yes breaks down turns to what we call
    ( snot). simple easy to change just part of maintenance. Change mine every 12 to 18 months never a issue.
    Gotcha… are you just dumping the reservoir and / or flushing the lines and cylinder with fresh fluid?
    ’13 21 HP, 250 ProXS, 10” Atlas, twin Power Poles, 25p Croxtonized Tempest, 2 1/2 PTP, 1/2 tank fuel, driver, all gear, empty wells, 74.7 in 102 deg heat.

  10. BBC SPONSOR/ Shallow Water Anchors Moderator
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    #10
    Use turkey baster or transfer pump to suck out reservoir add new fluid.

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    #11
    Quote Originally Posted by KandKKustomz View Post
    Use turkey baster or transfer pump to suck out reservoir add new fluid.
    I use a transmission fluid change tool... Works great and you get most of the fluid out in 1 plunge... Plus it's cleaner no drips

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    #12
    I removed, cleaned, and flushed the pumps and lines, then refilled with conventional 32 hydraulic fluid. Reservoirs and screens fairly dirty. Pumps worked much better but had a deployment issue with same pole. Finally located a “pinched” line (bent like a straw when deploying) at the flex point. Seems to be working better in the garage with pole attached to roll around work bench. It will be a week or two before I’m on the water due to this winter storm crossing Oklahoma and Missouri!
    ’13 21 HP, 250 ProXS, 10” Atlas, twin Power Poles, 25p Croxtonized Tempest, 2 1/2 PTP, 1/2 tank fuel, driver, all gear, empty wells, 74.7 in 102 deg heat.

  13. BBC SPONSOR/ Shallow Water Anchors Moderator
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    #13
    Quote Originally Posted by clayc View Post
    I removed, cleaned, and flushed the pumps and lines, then refilled with conventional 32 hydraulic fluid. Reservoirs and screens fairly dirty. Pumps worked much better but had a deployment issue with same pole. Finally located a “pinched” line (bent like a straw when deploying) at the flex point. Seems to be working better in the garage with pole attached to roll around work bench. It will be a week or two before I’m on the water due to this winter storm crossing Oklahoma and Missouri!
    Glad you found the pinched line that will do it.. need a clean ND flush anyway you will see better and quieter performance now