Hi all, Running out of fuel in my Verado.

[verado1]

Hope I do this right. My SN is,
2005 250L 1B193158

Had the boat out and it started acting like it was running out of fuel and then fell on its face. I put it on the trailer and it started, then died. I crank it and it just cranks. SO I checked Fuel PSI and its 48psi. I tore down the FSM and replaced the float as it had black wires and word is to replace with red wires. Both pump turn on. I also replaced the fuel pressure regulator while I was in there. Put everything back together and I can get it to run in the garage but when I pull it out it doesnt want to run. I have spark and compression. Pulled the injectors and they are working as well. Im scratching my head over this one. I also ran it was a gallon can of fuel to make sure it wasnt a bad hose from the tank in the boat. Any ideas?
EDIT, the pumps will at times run and run and sometimes will shut off. But I maintain 48psi at the rail.

[EuropeanAM]

Welcome to BBC!

Don't know where you got the "wire colors" info on FSM floats, but I would probably choose a source that's a little more reliable. Been several versions of the floats- never have I replaced a float solely due to it having black wires.

If you have 48 psi fuel pressure, the engine should start and idle just fine. Check to make sure the MAP sensor (and boot) are good (boots back in that vintage were known to disintegrate).

Also check spark plugs (and spark).

[verado1]

Welcome to BBC!

Don't know where you got the "wire colors" info on FSM floats, but I would probably choose a source that's a little more reliable. Been several versions of the floats- never have I replaced a float solely due to it having black wires.

If you have 48 psi fuel pressure, the engine should start and idle just fine. Check to make sure the MAP sensor (and boot) are good (boots back in that vintage were known to disintegrate).

Also check spark plugs (and spark).

Thanks for the reply.
I read that the old units with black wires would go bad often and to get the newer version. The old float has been on my workbench for about a month. I just took it apart and used a very small pick and stuck it in the float and its fuel soaked as fuel came out from where I poked it! Id think it would dry out by now. Thing is I bought a aftermarket float and Im not 100% sure of it so I ordered a OEM one and now the wait starts.

Heres the odd part European, I can run this thing all day in the garage and it run perfect! As soon as I pull it on my sloped driveway it wont start. So I back it in and it starts! Yeah head scratcher. I can also make it run with starting fluid while on the driveway. Its like it isnt getting fuel. I dunt know, Ill check the MAP sensor and boot and see if theres any issues there. Man this is a bummer because it has 900 hrs on it and has ran like a top and never let me down.

[EuropeanAM]

I would recommend you avoid starting fluid at all costs, as it can be detrimental to the engine.

Don't overlook fuel LEVEL in the tank and the pickup tube in the tank. A crack or pin-hole (or a lower fuel level) may result in air being drawn rather than fuel at certain boat attitudes (whereas engine TRIM level would usually replicate a float-level problem that was caused by the angle the FSM sits at).

[verado1]

I would recommend you avoid starting fluid at all costs, as it can be detrimental to the engine.

Don't overlook fuel LEVEL in the tank and the pickup tube in the tank. A crack or pin-hole (or a lower fuel level) may result in air being drawn rather than fuel at certain boat attitudes (whereas engine TRIM level would usually replicate a float-level problem that was caused by the angle the FSM sits at).

I agree as it was a 10 second test to make sure it would run on a slope.

I agree, but I used a gallon can with a new hose. I guess Ill wait for the OEM float and see how things go. Then start looking at hoses. Thanks European.

[verado1]

Well got the float on and checked with a multi meter and its all good. While I was in the FSM I replaced everything, new pumps and regulator. Again, started right up in the garage and when I pulled it out notta. Backed it back in and started right up and will run as long as we can stand the fumes lol.

Never seen something so odd. No codes, checked the new pumps and they're good. Checked new float and it's good. Lift pump turns off after a few seconds of the key on. High pressure pump is good at 50 lbs. Spark is good, as it runs in the garage. I have a appointment the 24th. Maybe I'll replace all fuel hoses to the tank back before then.

Any ideas would be awesome. Thanks BBC.

[verado1]

Wish this guy updated. Sounds like the same issue.
https://www.walleyecentral.com/forum.../topics/145655

[EuropeanAM]

Not sure how you're running it in the garage, unless you have a floor drain for supplied water (never even spin the starter unless water is supplied).

Suggest you connect an external/separate and portable fuel tank, with it's OWN fuel line, directly to the engine, and then run it.

If the engine runs properly- the problem is in the BOAT fuel supply system (tank, pickup, lines, filter, vent, etc).

[verado1]

Not sure how you're running it in the garage, unless you have a floor drain for supplied water (never even spin the starter unless water is supplied).

Suggest you connect an external/separate and portable fuel tank, with it's OWN fuel line, directly to the engine, and then run it.

If the engine runs properly- the problem is in the BOAT fuel supply system (tank, pickup, lines, filter, vent, etc).

Yes I have a drain, tub and muffs. I'm running a gallon can with a two foot hose to eliminate the boat tank being the issue. It's pretty odd how it's running in the garage. I still don't understand it. Maybe it doesn't want to go outside haha.

[EuropeanAM]

Take a look at your MAP sensor, atop the charge air cooler/intake, and see if the boot is spongy/deteriorated. Better yet, snap a picture of the sensor and boot and post it up here.

There was an updated boot and sensor that offset/moved the sensor to the side, due to problems with sunlight.

[verado1]

Take a look at your MAP sensor, atop the charge air cooler/intake, and see if the boot is spongy/deteriorated. Better yet, snap a picture of the sensor and boot and post it up here.

There was an updated boot and sensor that offset/moved the sensor to the side, due to problems with sunlight.

Thanks for taking the time to respond. Is this the one you're talking about?

https://ibb.co/R9v1B8P

[verado1]

Thanks for taking the time to respond. Is this the one you're talking about?

https://ibb.co/R9v1B8P

Let me see if I can figure out how to post a picture here.

[EuropeanAM]

That one has not been updated. Understand that in this case I'm working SOLELY from your "inside vs outside" (presumed to mean sunlight is involved) description.

Drop our Parts Department an email, with your serial number, and mention the updated MAP & Boot with clamps. Rhonda can set you up (see her post at the top of this forum for contact info).

In the meantime... it would be interesting to know if totally shielding the sensor from sunlight makes any difference (at all)- this is more of a curiosity situation than a diagnostic one.

[verado1]

That one has not been updated. Understand that in this case I'm working SOLELY from your "inside vs outside" (presumed to mean sunlight is involved) description.

Drop our Parts Department an email, with your serial number, and mention the updated MAP & Boot with clamps. Rhonda can set you up (see her post at the top of this forum for contact info).

In the meantime... it would be interesting to know if totally shielding the sensor from sunlight makes any difference (at all)- this is more of a curiosity situation than a diagnostic one.

Thanks I'll do that. My husband and I will do some tests this weekend. Thanks for the replies.

[verado1]

Hubbs doesn't do the internet so I'll translate. Ok hubby took another look at it when he got home. He checked the vent on the tank, the fuel line in the tank all was clear. So he then pulled the fuel filter on the side of the motor. It was almost empty. He filled it with fuel and pulled the high pressure hose on the FSM and attached a hose and fed it into a gallon tank.. I turned the key on and he said it came out like it was plugged up. He asked me to cycle the key and same issue. He asked me to do so again and he said it came out like a water hose. Filled the tank in no time! So tomorrow after work he's going to pull it out and give it a shot again. He seems to think it was a vapor lock or air in the line because of the bad float that we replaced. Wish us luck!

[EuropeanAM]

Please do follow up on that- if the fuel system or FSM are dry, the system should be bled to remove excess air and prime the system with fuel PRIOR TO starting the pumps (dry running pumps can result in pump damage).

[verado1]

Please do follow up on that- if the fuel system or FSM are dry, the system should be bled to remove excess air and prime the system with fuel PRIOR TO starting the pumps (dry running pumps can result in pump damage).

She's back! Ran it for 30 min yesterday and she's back to her normal running self. It was a prime issue. I watched him fill the FSM with fuel before putting it back together and he also filled the filter on the motor with fuel. But I guess there was air in the system. Taking that fuel line off from the FSM that goes to the motor and cycling the key worked awesome. After that it fired right up!

Thanks for the advice. Glad she's back and we'll be back on the water soon.

[EuropeanAM]

[verado1]

Just wanted to say thanks for the help. I'm not much of a online guy but after her asking questions here I'll have to rethink that. Again thanks for the back and forth it did help us. It's good to be back on the water.