I like the Big Game mono for 20-30 lb line situations but Trilene Xl is way better in smaller line test.Way easier to manage
I like the Big Game mono for 20-30 lb line situations but Trilene Xl is way better in smaller line test.Way easier to manage
Big Game for moving baits---Stren Clear Blue for pitching .
1988 Ranger 364V
150HP Merc Black Max
I'm using mono I've had stored since the mid 90s. I've had great success with straight braid (20# powerpro, 14# fireline). No leaders. Some bigger braid for froggin. You find a mono you like stick with it. The on a lure and go fishing. K.I.S.S.
2019 Alumacraft 14.5 escape tiller "child support"
2018 Ford fiesta "pistachio"
1992 kawasaki zx11 "legend"
I use a lot of 12lb Trilene XT! I throw so many lures on it I can’t even list them. I’m pretty heavy on my braid usage, and zero fluorocarbon. I do use a copoly for cranking and jerkbaits, PLine CXX 10 & 12lb.
2006 Triton SP-185, 2006 Evinrude Etec 90, PowerTech NRS3, Garmin Echomap Plus 73CV & 93SV
Braid to Mono on all my top water baits, and most of my crankbaits.
I still use Sunline Super Natural mono for several applications. Buzzbaits, topwaters, any surface bait or bait I want hold at or near surface.
I throw 25# with buzzbaits, Smaller diameter than 20# Trilene. 20# with everything else. Same diameter as 17# Trilene. Better abrasion resistance. Good limpness, and very low memory even as you get down into the spool.
http://www.tackletour.com/reviewsunl...ernatural.html
BassCat Sabre FTD
Mercury 150 Optimax
"It's just fishing"
Big Game for cranks here. Sufix 832 braid for
most everything else.
No, you're not the only one still using mono. To me, fluorocarbon fishing line is 99% hype and 1% performance. I use nothing but Izorline Platinum, a co-polymer, and Izorline Braid on my flipping and friogging rods. On only one occasion have I ever been out fished by someone using fluoro and that was on the super clear waters of Lake Erie. On the other hand, the fluoro leader material is the real deal for a Carolina Rig leader or a leader used on braid.
"The man of system is apt to be very wise in his own conceit; and is often so enamored with the supposed beauty of his own ideal plan of government that he cannot suffer the smallest deviation from any part of it…He seems to imagine that he can arrange the different members of a great society with as much ease as the hand arranges the different pieces upon a chessboard.” Adam Smith, The Theory of Moral Sentiments
Mostly co-poly here. Some mono and a little braid.
I was never impressed with Flouro
Some of you guys were using the wrong brand of fluorocarbon if you dislike it that much. In the many years I’ve used Sunline Sniper I can count the bad experiences I’ve had with it on one hand. One bad spool that produced several break offs on the cast. Removed it, sent the spool to Sunline, and got a replacement free. Lost a few, but only a few, fish to line breakage at the knot. They were big fish hitting reaction baits. You’re going to lose one occasionally. But, overall it’s been an awesome addition to my arsenal. 50% of my setups have Sniper FC spooled up. 25% get mono, 25% braid.
I can’t imagine using anything else for crankbaits or bottom contact baits. Or spinnerbaits and chatterbaits for that matter.
http://www.bassfishin.com/blog/fishing-line-guide/
BassCat Sabre FTD
Mercury 150 Optimax
"It's just fishing"
2021 BassCatt Pantera II
200 Pro XS(3B056653)
Motorguide Tour Pro
Maxima Ultragreen, for me to.
I failed horribly with Flouro over 10 years ago or so but keep drinking the Kool-aid marketing and try Flouro again once in a while.
Last year I tried to blind test myself by rigging a mix of fluoro and mono lines all of the same diameter on a bunch of reels, some full spool but mostly as leaders. 16 lines in all. I did not label what line was one what reel.
While I did find differences in the way the monos handled I had no issues with all but one really and I think that was Suffix advance mono. I broke off unusually easily on that line. Or at least I think it was that line when I went back to compare what was on that reel to the spools I had. Not easy to compare 8 and 10 pound lines by eye.
I couldn’t fool myself with reel fully spooled with flouro as It was obvious to me when I picked up a reel spooled with fluoro, mainly because fluoro sinks quite a bit quicker than mono. No handling or backlash or break off issues with the fluoro vs mono. But when I did set the hook into a big log or try to free a snag, the weakness of fluoro very obvious . The fluoro would deform permanently, and the line would appear cloudy vs relatively clear after stressing it. All the monos bounced back as new.
As a leader I could feel no difference between mono and fluoro on my most sensitive Shimano Cumulus rods.
So for me , unless you need a sinking line fluoro is more hype than substance but to each his own. Some people may very well be able to discern a sensitivity difference better than me but that is my experience.
I have braid on a few rods but the only technique that I believe braid is 100% necessary for is throwing a frog. Everything else I can do fine with mono or copolymer.
I fish mono on some rods others I use braid. All depends on what I’m going for.
For casting accuracy I’m convinced nothing comes off the reel smoother than a good mono. I like the stretch in certain situations also.
2007 Ranger188vs, Mercury optimax 150
I use them all.
1997 Charger 186 TF
1997 Yamaha ProV 175
Most of my time I fish with braid to Fluorocarbon.
I'm convinced fluro is superior for sensitibity but it's costly. The question is how many more fish will it put in the boat and are they worth the difference? I guess that depends on the person and style of fishing. I only use it for bottom baits. I've noticed that I can't cast the fluro I have on now as far as pline cx premium went and it's a significant distance. Plus I'm a line watcher and unless it's really deep I generally see the line going hinky first.