New pumps..anyone replace recently?

[04_triton]

Like the title says, I have a recirculation pump that went bad on me this year so I've decided the replace everything in my bilge since they're all the originals. All older attwood models (04 models) I've done a fair share of research so I guess I'm just looking for input or other helpful info. I'm gonna go with the tsunami line. What did you guys use for new hoses? I'm far from a mechanic so I'll take any advice you guys have.

[limit5bass]

https://www.homedepot.com/p/UDP-3-4-...4005/304185201

[JohnM64]

Like the title says, I have a recirculation pump that went bad on me this year so I've decided the replace everything in my bilge since they're all the originals. All older attwood models (04 models) I've done a fair share of research so I guess I'm just looking for input or other helpful info. I'm gonna go with the tsunami line. What did you guys use for new hoses? I'm far from a mechanic so I'll take any advice you guys have.

Just replaced all 8 pumps in a 2000 Tr-20. My $ 0.02:

I used 3/4" rubber heater hose from any auto parts store - sold by the foot.

The auto bilge pump required rewiring to enable auto/on operation.

The old hoses were stiff, seemed to be PVC. I found it easiest to cut all the hoses free first - a PVC wire saw worked well without collateral damage.

Remove everything from the bilge that even remotely might get in the way. I pulled both bilge plates and refinished them while I was at it.

I removed the bulkhead fittings from the boat (i.e. livewell spray bar) and carefully cut the old hose from the barb on the bench.

Use 3M 4200 sealant, not 5200. Use heat shrink butt connectors with epoxy for wiring - Raychem makes them. Maybe buy a cheap heat gun like a Wagner.

The bilge pumps were the toughest - down deep in bilge and lots of hoses and wires. You'll need a good work light to see what you're doing.

Label all the pump leads with masking tape when you cut them free from old pump. Take pictures beforehand.

Last thing was using cut coat hangers to get hoses and wires not being worked on, up and out of the way.

Nothing by itself with this project is especially mechanically challenging, it's more of an access and organizational effort.

[04_triton]

Thanks John! Great info ����

[Team Mud]

TIP:

Heating the hoses up with a heat gun/hair dryer can make it easier to remove if you cant cut the hoses.

When its time to install the new hose, you can soak the hose in hot hot water to make them more pliable too.

[rocketman6965]

Did you have to replace any switches? It seems like my recirc and livewell pumps only work in timed mode. Was wondering if that was the switch or the timer module or something else?

Just replaced all 8 pumps in a 2000 Tr-20. My $ 0.02:

I used 3/4" rubber heater hose from any auto parts store - sold by the foot.

The auto bilge pump required rewiring to enable auto/on operation.

The old hoses were stiff, seemed to be PVC. I found it easiest to cut all the hoses free first - a PVC wire saw worked well without collateral damage.

Remove everything from the bilge that even remotely might get in the way. I pulled both bilge plates and refinished them while I was at it.

I removed the bulkhead fittings from the boat (i.e. livewell spray bar) and carefully cut the old hose from the barb on the bench.

Use 3M 4200 sealant, not 5200. Use heat shrink butt connectors with epoxy for wiring - Raychem makes them. Maybe buy a cheap heat gun like a Wagner.

The bilge pumps were the toughest - down deep in bilge and lots of hoses and wires. You'll need a good work light to see what you're doing.

Label all the pump leads with masking tape when you cut them free from old pump. Take pictures beforehand.

Last thing was using cut coat hangers to get hoses and wires not being worked on, up and out of the way.

Nothing by itself with this project is especially mechanically challenging, it's more of an access and organizational effort.