Full Fluoro vs Braid with a fluoro leader

[NHbassfisherman]

I am trying to find out, whats so different when casting fluoro on my baitcasting reels? I have never used straight fluoro, its always been braid to fluoro leader. Is there proven facts that using straight fluoro adds an element, and an advantage when bass fishing? And why do i hear so much, negative advice, about spooling baitcasters with Fluoro? I was basically talking about using fluoro, for crankbaits, but also contemplating on droping lb test/line diameter on the braid. Maybe use like 20 lb test braid, for crankbaits. Right now, i use 30 lb test. Just hear throwing fluoro is / can be a nightmare if using it for the first time. Can anyone shed some light on YAY or NAY on full fluoro?

[MCIPinkie]

There is no right or wrong. It's what works for you. I'm a braid and leader believer. Every rod, every lure, every technique. 10 lb. braid on spinning rods, 20 or 30 on pull bait casting rods. 50 on drop bait rods rods. Leaders vary from 6 to 25 lb. 5 feet to 20 feet.

I do not use fluorocarbon. IMHO, it's the biggest advertising hype product of the century. I started using FC years ago when you bought 25 yard leader spools, until I started thinking. Now I use Trilene Big Game for all my leaders.

Don't start on me with your sponsor hype. I've read all the ads. Watched all the pros that Sunline and Sequar sponsor. I've tried FC. Does nothing for me. If you think is does something for you, then it does. Continue to squander your money.

I just bought a mile (1700 yards) of 8 lb. Big Game. $6.99 at BPS. Same rack, InvizX $22.00 for 200 yards. Might have been 150 yards. Didn't look that close. Didn't need to.

My point is Use what works for you. Keep an open mind and try different things. Just because Pro X? says he uses Tatsu doesn't mean you should. If he wasn't sponsored, or a kool aid drinker, he wouldn't pay that much for line.

[ECobb91]

I personally use braid-floro for everything except heavy cover frogging. Every other technique I use a floro leader. Part of it is a cost thing but also a confidence. Braid lasts longer, has little to no memory, lasts for years, and is way more sensitive than other lines so I want that for my mainline on all of my reels.

The floro helps with abrasion resistance especially around rocks, socks, and zebra mussels all while extending the life of the braid. For moving baits it acts like a shock absorber so you don’t rip the hooks out. Want more stretch just use a longer leader. Also helps cut down on cost since floro lasts about a season at most. Nearly all of my reels have braid that’s 4-5 years old on it.

but also it’s a confidence thing. I swear by a floro leader, some guys prefer mono leaders, others want straight floro. Do what works best for you and figure out what you prefer, not just what others tell you to do

[Bronzefly]

Not all fluorocarbon is created equally. There are significant differences in price, performance, and of course cost. Personally, I very much dislike braid to FC leaders. I use high quality straight mono, braid, or FC depending on the situation. My current "go to" FC line is Daiwa J-Fluoro Samurai. I'm also a fan of Sunline Super FC Sniper as an "all around" line. Using a quality FC will help reduce common problems associated with FC use, even on spinning tackle. I use a lot of straight 7# and 8# on my spinning gear and don't have any significant line management issues, even in cold winter conditions. On casting gear, straight FC is absolutely no problem for me whatsoever. I've been using it for many, many years now and have no intention of changing that up.

Jig and bottom contact fishing is one of my favorite things to do. I almost always run straight FC for these applications (unless fishing very heavy grass). Braid doesn't transmit vibration nearly as well as FC unless the line is tight and when fishing in the wind, it's often impossible to do. FC transmits vibration even with a bow in the line. It has lower stretch than mono which is important when fishing deep, or in heavier cover, and it offers excellent abrasion resistance. I crank almost exclusively with straight FC as well. I don't like anything under 30# braid on casting gear as the dig in gets annoying.

Overall, there is no right or wrong choice here. Everyone figures out what they like and what works well for them. I think folks should spend their money as they see fit and not be ridiculed for making a choice different than someone else, imagine that My main recommendations are to buy a high quality FC like those listed above, pay attention to line diameter, and match the line for your specific applications.

[Kodiak16]

Been using straight floro for years. I'm a bottom searcher and for me it can't be beat for feel. I use MLXF poles. I have kept a catch log for decades and most fish caught are on that combo. Could be newer technology or maybe I improved but it works for me.

[fishon!sc]

I run braid to a floro leader on spinning. Straight floro on everything esle except cranking. Then I run straight mono.

[School Master]

To me the biggest "advantage" or true "proven fact" is that flouro sinks and it is less visible. The fish in my area are almost always deep and the water is extremely clear. This is why I almost never throw braid. There are other reasons, like I don't like 2 knots when I can have one.

Flouro gets my baits down and KEEPS them down. Most people get scared away from straight flouro because it's other fact is it isn't as user friendly as braid. If I fished dirty and stained shallow water, I would most certainly throw braid more. Braid on moving baits is an absolute no go for me, I just can't handle the sensitivity. I've pulled a spinnerbait away from FAR too many smallmouth and learned my lesson.

Last, the majority throw braid to a leader these days. It gives me just a little notch of confidence knowing I'm a little different.

[PMantle]

I do not use fluorocarbon. IMHO, it's the biggest advertising hype product of the century. I started using FC years ago when you bought 25 yard leader spools, until I started thinking. Now I use Trilene Big Game for all my leaders.

Don't start on me with your sponsor hype. I've read all the ads. Watched all the pros that Sunline and Sequar sponsor. I've tried FC. Does nothing for me. If you think is does something for you, then it does. Continue to squander your money.


.

[fluke1987]

Any technique where you have a bow in your line working the bait...hard to beat fluorocarbon for sensitivity and bite detection. You just don't get the same response with braid in that case...and I am talking about texas rigs, jigs, ned rigs, shakeyheads, neko rigs, etc. Now if I am talking about straight line techniques like dropshotting that need some finesse I will go with braid to a fluoro leader. Heavy applications like frogs and punching...straight braid.

Now for straight line techniques that I am constantly reeling in the bait like crankbaits, swimjigs, spinnerbaits, etc...I also use fluorocarbon more so for the line visibility factor and the fact that fluoro doesn't float. Otherwise braid to fluoro or braid to mono leader could be options as well depending on the situation for me.

[Mcjenson]

I am trying to find out, whats so different when casting fluoro on my baitcasting reels? I have never used straight fluoro, its always been braid to fluoro leader. Is there proven facts that using straight fluoro adds an element, and an advantage when bass fishing? And why do i hear so much, negative advice, about spooling baitcasters with Fluoro? I was basically talking about using fluoro, for crankbaits, but also contemplating on droping lb test/line diameter on the braid. Maybe use like 20 lb test braid, for crankbaits. Right now, i use 30 lb test. Just hear throwing fluoro is / can be a nightmare if using it for the first time. Can anyone shed some light on YAY or NAY on full fluoro?

Personally, I don't like dealing with a leader know in my casting setups. I know some of that can be mitigated through using fg knot and glue etc, but I don't like "thumbing" a knot in the reel or dealing with it catching on a diawa t-wing or a guide. Also feel I get better casting distance with straight flouro or mono. That said, I don't really run all flouro on a baitcaster, I use cheapo 30 pound braid backing and enough flourocarbon to cover maybe a typical cast and then some (maybe 75-100 yards). That will save you some line when its time to respool.

[NHbassfisherman]

So i guess my question here is this. DOES straight FC, get Backlashing as bad as everyone says or is it basically same as using a baitcaster for the 1st time? I have been using baitcasters for probably 30 yrs now, and very rarely have a backlash, that i can't get out, within a minute or so. Thats my concern, all the hype about serious backlash with straight fluoro. Is it spooled on, any special way, and i have heard to treat it with line conditioner. I'm not a big Crankbait guy, but am trying to get into using one, with more confidence, and was told, that the lighter crankbaits should be thrown on straight FC.

[fishon!sc]

So i guess my question here is this. DOES straight FC, get Backlashing as bad as everyone says or is it basically same as using a baitcaster for the 1st time? I have been using baitcasters for probably 30 yrs now, and very rarely have a backlash, that i can't get out, within a minute or so. Thats my concern, all the hype about serious backlash with straight fluoro. Is it spooled on, any special way, and i have heard to treat it with line conditioner. I'm not a big Crankbait guy, but am trying to get into using one, with more confidence, and was told, that the lighter crankbaits should be thrown on straight FC.

No it does not unless you buy the bargain bin line. I throw 1/4 oz crankbaits pretty often. I use #10 mono. To me rod and reel is more important then line for fishing light cranks.