2000 Tr-20 Auto Bilge Circuit

[JohnM64]

Replacing the original equipment auto bilge. Actually replacing all 8 livewell and bilge pumps.

Old auto bilge pump (Attwood) had two (+) and one (-) leads. This pump had not worked in a while.

New pump (Johnson) has 1 (+) and 2 (-).

There are 2 (+) and 1 (-) leads from switch to bilge, which connected to the original pump. Switch has OFF-AUTO-DUAL settings, running both the auto and manual bilge pumps.

Testing the auto bilge leads, with switch in off position, I get continuity between 1 set of (+) and (-), same set produces 12v when switched to Dual. Auto bilge is temp wired to this arrangement.

I would think the auto Bilge would require continuous unswitched power.

Anyone have any input? Thanks in advance.

[Lightning 6]

These might help: http://themarineinstallersrant.blogspot.com/2011/07/johnson-bilge-pump-wiring-splained-to.html

https://www.tritonboats.com/content/dam/wrmg-web/triton-boats/manuals/wire-diagram

IAW triton wiring diagram & from my own boat:

12v power from auto bilge fuse located on master cutoff panel to float switch via orange wire w/ green stripe….then from float switch to auto bilge pump via brown wire.

12 v from dash bilge switch (mine is simply on/ off) to both the manual & auto bilge pumps.

[JohnM64]

These might help: http://themarineinstallersrant.blogspot.com/2011/07/johnson-bilge-pump-wiring-splained-to.html

https://www.tritonboats.com/content/dam/wrmg-web/triton-boats/manuals/wire-diagram

IAW triton wiring diagram & from my own boat:

12v power from auto bilge fuse located on master cutoff panel to float switch via orange wire w/ green stripe….then from float switch to auto bilge pump via brown wire.

12 v from dash bilge switch (mine is simply on/ off) to both the manual & auto bilge pumps.

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Thanks, but nothing that shows what I have. I'll need to look upstream, pull the switch and go from there.

[Danrude]

The TR20 is not set up for that Johnson pump You may need to go with the Attwood bilge pump. I think you would have to set the Johnson pump to switch one of the (-) leads, One of the (-) leads would go direct to the battery as well as the (+) lead and the other to (-) lead through the switch.
It would help us if you gave us the model # of the Johnson pump as well as the Attwood pump.

[JohnM64]

The TR20 is not set up for that Johnson pump You may need to go with the Attwood bilge pump. I think you would have to set the Johnson pump to switch one of the (-) leads, One of the (-) leads would go direct to the battery as well as the (+) lead and the other to (-) lead through the switch.
It would help us if you gave us the model # of the Johnson pump as well as the Attwood pump.

Interesting; I can see the potential logic of the switch as a relay. Currently all 3 wires are routed to the switch.

The Attwood auto bilge was OEM, 21 years in a dark wet place. I did not save it when removed, and it was not working.

The Johnson is a 07503-00 Ultima Combo 500 GPH 12V.

I'm replacing all 8 pumps (2 livewell, 2 recirc, 2 pump out, 2 bilge) at once with the johnson cartridges.

[Bob G.]

I replaced 4 of the 8 pumps on my Triton a few years ago (2 recirc and 2 pump out). I dropped the ball and they froze. I replaced using the same models of Attwood Tsunami pumps that I removed. I cut the connector off of the old pumps and soldered/heat shrunk to the new pumps.

I know you're in Florida and your pumps won't freeze but for the guys up north, I now religiously pump RV antifreeze through all livewell and bilge pumps when winterizing. Replacing the livewell pumps was a pain as I had to removed the bilge plate, one battery, the oil reservoir and the back hatch just to hang upside down to work on them.

[Lightning 6]

Installation instructions clearly identify the fliat/ pump combo to have 2 (+) wires and 1 (-) wire.

One Auto bilge pump lead requires unswitched 12v power thru float switch…..with 5 amp breaker…..and triton often mounts this breaker on the master cutoff switch panel in bilge (note: the auto bilge lead is on the constant hot terminal of master cutoff switch).

https://www.spxflow.com/assets/pdf/JPM_UltimaCombo_EU_52273JP-R01_IB-120-R07.pdf

[JohnM64]

Installation instructions clearly identify the fliat/ pump combo to have 2 (+) wires and 1 (-) wire.

One Auto bilge pump lead requires unswitched 12v power thru float switch…..with 5 amp breaker…..and triton often mounts this breaker on the master cutoff switch panel in bilge (note: the auto bilge lead is on the constant hot terminal of master cutoff switch).

https://www.spxflow.com/assets/pdf/JPM_UltimaCombo_EU_52273JP-R01_IB-120-R07.pdf

Those instructions are much more than comes in the box. Thats for sure. Thanks.

While the wiring diagrams show 3 wire, it is a 2 wire pump. I can easily wire directly to 12 v source to enable automatic operation, if desired, negating the dash switch.

Or I may need to go with a 3 wire Attwood like Danrude indicated.

And as Bob G said, its a very difficult job. I cannot imagine what a marine mechanic would charge.

[Lightning 6]

If you have the combo the Pump has 2 wires (brown & black) and the float switch has 3 wires (brown, brown w/ red stripe, snd black).

Review the 1st link in my 1st post…..IMHO this is a DIY job.

[JohnM64]

Issue Resolved.

The best instructions for the auto bilge are printed on the back of the box; Instructions within box are less than perfect, and in multiple languages.

My problem was I did not have the box; I got most of the pumps in like new condition but without boxes or instructions.

Dash Switch has brown (switched +), black (-), and brown with white (+). The brown with white is barely discernable.

Had to rewire the pump from factory settings. Brown wire (+) from pump float switch to pump motor was cut and spliced to brown lead from dash switch (switched power).

Black to black (-), then brown with white (+) from dash switch to brown with red on pump float (+).

[mdtritn21]

Original pump had two brown wires in one that tied to an ORG/GRN from a 5 amp fuse at the main switch that was hot all the time and one from the switch leg an ORN/BRN that tied to a BRN turned on both on both bilge pumps and one black wire out. Float was inside the auto pump bilge pump