AVX 1980 Running Clean Power to Battery

[fishnman]

I'm in the process of upgrading my electronics at the bow of my 2019 AVX 1980. I already have a Helix 7 up there (networkable) with the Ultrex and MDI. I'm going to do a couple things:

1. Add Mega 360 to the bow.
2. Add a Helix 10, strictly for the 360
3. Keep my Helix 7 for mapping
4. Network my Helix 10, Helix 7, and my dash mounted Helix 9.

I've got all the parts, now I'm ready to install.

The first thing I want to do is run dedicated power to the bow electronics (Helix 7, Helix 10, and 360). In order to run dedicated power, I'll need to run wires, bow to stern. I've removed the recessed trolling motor tray, as well as the aluminum plate under the dash, to give me access.

When I look into the boat, from the bow, I see (2) corrugated plastic pipe, running down the driver's side of the hull. I've taken a fish tape and established that one of the pipe (currently has no wires run thru it) terminates under the console. The second pipe (up higher inside the boat) appears to terminate somewhere around the throttle at the console (only by feel.....I cant see that one yet)

I was wondering: Does anyone know the best way, or best route, to run dedicated power leads from the bilge to the bow?

I was wondering if I need to take off the switch panel at the console so that I can see back behind the throttle and can help my wires get past the throttle and get on back to the rear of the boat?

Any suggestions here?

I'll post pictures as I move along...maybe I'll be able to help someone else down the road.

[ifishinxs]

Clean power is already in place. You have 8 gauge running to your console to a positive and Neg Buss. From that point Vexus runs 10 Gauge to a Bow buss. Yes there are a few things running off of the Console buss. Nothing that will effect your electronics in any way. Nor will you see a significant voltage drop. This can be checked with a volt meter pretty easy. In my case I actually connected 10 gauge from the battery to the bow and checked the voltage. It was no different than the stock wiring.
I used to wire marine electronics in So Cal for Commission on Offshore and inshore boats So I am a little OCD.
In any case if you feel you need to run New wires it is very easy as Vexus has installed dedicated rigging tubes down the drivers side of the boat. The panel next to the drivers seat comes off with 6 screws. This gives you complete access to the buss bars and rigging tubes. I seperated my electronics wiring and added a dedicated switch for my MFD's. I also added blinker trim, storage compartment lighting and a battery charger plug next to the drivers seat.

[fishnman]

I wish this were true on my boat, regarding clean power to the bow, but it is not.

I purchased the boat new in January 2020. Its been great, except, when you crank the big motor, there is a significant voltage drop, and the console and bow units turn off. I've learned that the only way to prevent this is to turn both units to "sleep mode" and then crank the big motor. If you crank the big motor, and the units turn off, then they will not come back on unless you reset the breakers in the bilge. Been like this since day 1. I told my dealer, but nothing has been done about it. I learned to live with it....by placing the units in sleep before cranking.

That's why I want dedicated clean power. I'm going to install a battery, just for the bow units. The bow units will have their own battery and their own wiring.

I do appreciate the update regarding the wiring tubes next to the console. I'll take that off and snake my power back thru the boat.

[ifishinxs]

I wish this were true on my boat, regarding clean power to the bow, but it is not.

I purchased the boat new in January 2020. Its been great, except, when you crank the big motor, there is a significant voltage drop, and the console and bow units turn off. I've learned that the only way to prevent this is to turn both units to "sleep mode" and then crank the big motor. If you crank the big motor, and the units turn off, then they will not come back on unless you reset the breakers in the bilge. Been like this since day 1. I told my dealer, but nothing has been done about it. I learned to live with it....by placing the units in sleep before cranking.

That's why I want dedicated clean power. I'm going to install a battery, just for the bow units. The bow units will have their own battery and their own wiring.

I do appreciate the update regarding the wiring tubes next to the console. I'll take that off and snake my power back thru the boat.

You do not have a wiring problem. You have a battery problem! Plan and simple. Or a bad connection at the battery or possibly the console buss. If your not running a 31 series battery you need too. Perferably an AGM or lithium. Installing a dedicated battery for your bow units is not a bad idea. I had to do that for a Garmin Beta tester as he had a huge draw up front with multiple 10 and 12 inch MFD’s and live scope.

My boat came with a 27 series wet cell starting battery. It would start my motor and run my electronics barely! When i would hit my trim button my engine rpms would drop due to the voltage draw. I put up with this for about a year. Replaced all my batterys with 31 series AGM’s and things are perfect. I will switch to Lithiums next time around.

Good luck with your project.

[KennyVexus]

You do not have a wiring problem. You have a battery problem! Plan and simple. Or a bad connection at the battery or possibly the console buss. If your not running a 31 series battery you need too. Perferably an AGM or lithium. Installing a dedicated battery for your bow units is not a bad idea. I had to do that for a Garmin Beta tester as he had a huge draw up front with multiple 10 and 12 inch MFD’s and live scope.

My boat came with a 27 series wet cell starting battery. It would start my motor and run my electronics barely! When i would hit my trim button my engine rpms would drop due to the voltage draw. I put up with this for about a year. Replaced all my batterys with 31 series AGM’s and things are perfect. I will switch to Lithiums next time around.


Good luck with your project.

This is spot on. Voltage drop when you crank is most likely a weak battery. Get the battery load tested. I use a digital load tester but a carbon pile tester is actually better. Could be connections or even a tight starter but unlikely. Clean power actually means that there is no interference....usually.
My battery did this when new and died in two months. Bought a Gr 31 AGM and haven't looked back.
Good luck. Post updates and ask more questions if needed.

P.S. I would be willing to bet that if you wire it direct the units still drop off.

[fishnman]

Thanks guys. I really appreciate the feedback.

Given what you guys have described, now I'm thinking maybe I should not dedicate wiring to the rear and not add a (4th) battery to the bilge, but instead, purchase one heck of a lithium battery as my cranking/electronics battery.

As I think about that, let me ask you guys a question:

If I purchase a lithium starting/electronics battery, the way I understand it, I'll need a special charger for the lithium battery. As I understand it, the (3) bank 6 amp charger that came with the boat will not be enough.....nor proper.....as I understand it, for lithium.

What should I do about that? My trolling motor batteries seem to be good to go.......so I don't want to replace them in lithium (got to watch my budget too!)....and they've been being charged with the stock charger. Do I tape-up the charging cables that used to run to the cranking battery and then purchase a charger appropriate for the lithium battery, while I leave the other two trolling batteries on the stock charger?

What are your thoughts here?

Also, regarding cleaning connections: What are you guys talking about when saying "cleaning connections". Are you talking just about the connections at the battery posts.....or somewhere else?

Thank you guys again for your time and input.

[neo]

I am assuming you have a merc motor, i dont think mercury recommends lithium on there motors?

[fishnman]

Neo: Sure enough....you are correct about the Lithium and Mercury. I found this on the BBC:

http://www.bbcboards.net/showthread.php?t=1107423

Hmmm. Man!!!.....You'd think this would not be so complicated!

In my previous boats, I ran Odyssey batteries 31M. Never had a minutes trouble with them...but they weighed a TON! Given the AVX 1980's weight (and I was trying to stay as light as I can and still get my electronics on here), I was thinking lithium. Looks like I'll need to re-investigate how I do this.

One thing I could do is get a Odyssey 31M for cranking/electronics and upgrade my charger to the 10amp per bank instead of the 6amp. The Delta Volt profile has been great for me in the past. I need to think thru this.

[neo]

NAPA*

BAT 7236*

Take a look at this battery ran it for years for a 250 pro xs 2 stroke with no problems, plenty of power but be aware its a heavy son of a gun.

[KennyVexus]

fishman, you are thinking on the right path. A few extra pounds for the AGM won't kill your performance. I added that AGM and Talons in my 1880 115 Pro XS and it might have dropped 1 mph...maybe. I am running the Dual Pro SS 10 amp and it charges up fast. The SS has more features for charging, conditioning and maintaining your batteries than the 6 amp charger that comes with the boat. I paid for the upgrade when I ordered the boat. Now if you have a need to really have some battery capacity, you can add a lithium battery and a single bank charger and dedicate it to your electronics. You would only really need that much capacity if you were rigged like some of these pro boats. Three or four 15" graphs, 360, Live Image and so on. I run two nines and a ten just fine.
Good luck.

[dougie442]

That Odyssey 31M is a boss battery and will probably do all you need. NOCO makes a very good 4 bank (10amp per bank) charger that is selectable so you can set each bank for whatever type of battery you have connected to that bank. Once set, the charger remembers that setting until you change it. Makes it very useful when upgrading to lithium or have mixed battery types in your set up.
NOCO Genius GenPro 10x4, 4 Bank, 40 Amp Marine Charger. Best price is typically Amazon (figure the odds).
On a side note, don't be surprised if Mercury doesn't soon back off on NOT recommending Lithium's for a cranking battery.

[ifishinxs]

There are a few lithium batterys on the market that will work fine with the Mercury although not recommended. Pros and others have been running them for a few years. Cost wise your looking at $800.00 for the starting/house battery. Then a dedicated charger. Big up front investment.
Best bet is a 31 series AGM. This way you can use your current charger and be good to go.

There has been alot of discussion about CCA and reserve capacity for Mercury outboards. The link posted above is a very good reference. I’m going to throw out another battery that has been very good but some may frown on and thats the Duracell 31 agm. These can be bought at Sams club, and Battery Plus. Autozone has a 31 series Marine AGM now made by Johnson control. Same battery as the newly released Die Hard 31 series AGM. The Autozone version is around $199.00. These should work well with your 150 Mercury. The bigger motors maybe not so much.

Having mentioned these battery’s check your Mercury manual for battery specifications and make sure these will work for your application. With battery’s I always believe bigger is better. More reserve capacity and more CCA’s is always better. I have never heard anyone every say “I have to much battery power!”