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  1. #1
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    Steering Linkage Rod

    Hey guys, had a post in general. One member suggested I post here for some more specific advice. I have a 1993 Johnson GT200 Venom.

    My steering is a little stiff. It first, I thought it was the cables, but I took the cables out of the bracket that attaches it to the motor (dual cables) and the wheel spins freely, with very little resistance. The motor spins freely as well. After some playing around with the bracket, I discovered that my steering arm is a little bent from being trimmed too high by the previous owner. Another user also stated that the steering rod should have a gimbled connection at the arm on the motor, since it will bind the cables with the straight shaft. This does appear to be what is happening. Depending on the trim, my steering stiffness varies a great deal.

    Can anybody help me figure out what specific information I need to find the right style arm with the right length and bend in it? What model information or measurements do I need? Here is a picture where you can kind of see the slight bend in the arm. It's hard to tell but the steering rod is a straight shaft with a hole in it. It doesn't allow any flex when trimming and its binding up the dual cable system.

    20211114_170427.jpg

  2. SC Club Moderator ChampioNman's Avatar
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    #2
    It would take quite a bit of force to bend a steering arm on your motor that is very thick metal, not saying it couldn't happen but there is a misalignment between the steering link and the cable connector. Which hole is the link installed on the steering arm?

  3. Member
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    #3
    I'll double check the hole but I believe it's in the middle. I believe it to be bent due to the fact that the paint it chipped and the angle of the arm seems to correspond to the angle that the rod is off from going into the bracket.

  4. SC Club Moderator ChampioNman's Avatar
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    #4
    remove the link arm and see if the bolt for the steering arm is bent. That may be the cause of your issue.

  5. Member
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    #5
    A couple of things.
    The steering drag link is intended to be in the inner most hole.
    I see a normal condition since the outer steering cable tube and mount bracket are hanging down with the cables disconnected from drag link. But let’s say the drag link is bent or the outer steering cable tube and mount bracket are damaged these are normal service parts with part numbers found in the Evinrude parts catalog. Go to epc.brp.com

    steering effort will always change, meaning it will get easier or harder based on trim position and boat speed. A persons left arm starts to get pretty strong over time, especially with a dual cable set up. The purpose of two cables is to eliminate internal free play between the two cables. A properly adjust system will put just enough tension on the outer cable to pull it out and remove end play. I have seen them adjusted so tight causing excessive inner tension that causes stiff cable movement once connected to the drag link.

  6. Member
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    #6
    I took another look this afternoon. The steering link seems like it's not damaged or bent and it's in the middle hole. The bolt for the steering arm is not bent. I still believe that the steering arm has an upward bend to it that isn't intended to be there. The paint at the bend point on the arm is cracked as well. I've attached another picture with the link removed. I'm almost certain it should be angled down some.

    20211115_174549.jpg

  7. Member
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    #7
    Yes that arm looks bent to me. Replacement is a major task. The arm and the main steering shaft are all one piece. Remove power head and lower unit. I know I could figure out a hack to straighten the arm but that is not something I will talk about.

  8. Member
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    #8
    I am going to try to find something I can slide over the arm just to the bend point and very gently apply pressure to see if I can straighten it out. Obviously the safe thing to do is replace the arm but I only have $500 in boat, motor, and trailer because I got it on a trade for something I spent that much on. There's only a slight bend and the main forces applied to the arm are perpendicular to the bend. I think it may be ok if I can get it straightened out.

  9. Member
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    #9
    You said inner most hole for the linkage? It was in the middle hole. Should I try to line it up to see which hole is closer to the center of the cables?

  10. Member
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    #10
    Yup the inner most hole. This provides the proper steering radius and a lesser amount of torque to steer.

  11. New England Forum Moderator twitch's Avatar
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    #11
    Just checked mine it is closest to the motor that could be part of your problem to start with
    1990 374V Ranger Still kickin' bass after all these years

  12. SC Club Moderator ChampioNman's Avatar
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    #12
    Inner most is for cable, middle is for power steering and the outer most is for dual install tie bar.

  13. Member
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    #13
    When you say dual install tie bar, that's not referring to my dual cable setup are you? Since I have dual cables I should be innermost? Correct?

  14. Member
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    #14
    That arm doesn't look really different than
    the 3 motors I have,Did you clean out
    and lube the tubes?

  15. SC Club Moderator ChampioNman's Avatar
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    #15
    Quote Originally Posted by JayCee102 View Post
    When you say dual install tie bar, that's not referring to my dual cable setup are you? Since I have dual cables I should be innermost? Correct?

    Dual engine install.

    Yes inner most for cable steering.

  16. Member
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    #16
    So I got it all worked out. Gently bent the arm down just a bit. Attached the steering arm to the linkage in the innermost hole and it worked! Pardon the lack of properly torqued screws in the attached picture. I didn't want to get everything all tightened down until I knew I was good to hook. Steering wheel turns lock to lock with ease. I did notice it was a tad easier to turn to the right than it was to the left. Is this typical? Essentially extending the rods required less effort than retracting them.

    20211117_191231.jpg