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  1. #1
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    Think I found a problem... 2.5L 2001 135 Optimax SN# 0T344117

    This is a 2001 Action Craft 1820SE Flatsmaster that I bought from an estate - it is nice with 380 hours on the clock but had been sitting for 4+ years and you know what happens when you leave a boat that long without running it or doing maintenance. But the price was right and it's not my first rodeo. It took me a few months to get it rigged the way that I wanted and freshen up everything but the motor. I replaced all the filters, flushed the fuel system and pre-emptively replaced the air compressor before that ruined my day. Installed a Raymarine Element 9HV and an Ulterra TM and replaced all 3 of the batteries.

    That being said, been chasing and putting down some gremlins for a while now;

    • Oil System: Finally got the oil system worked out engine oil tank bad, replaced with an aftermarket one and that was bad as well - no mercury tanks available. Finally found a new mercury one someone had and installed that and all is peachy with that now. Still wouldn't fill from the boat oil tank. Replaced the o-rings/seals, crankcase check valve (it was bad - sticky, intermittent) on the boat tank caps (they were old, set and cracked) and that fixed it.



    Take it out on Okeechobee and ran it, went great... until I tried to leave after fishing for a while. Fell flat on its face after running a minute or so and had to wait 10 minutes before I could get it started again. Took off again and same thing happened. tried it again after a while, rinse and repeat. Ended up with BoatUS (great guy) and did the tow of shame back to the launch. Ruled out spark and decided to look at the fuel system.

    • Fuel system: VST was clean and I already had new filters. Low pressure pump was hot to the touch, so I bought a replacement from Quantum and installed it. While I had the LP PP out I spied the pulse pump behind it and I figured now would be a good time to take a look at it and do a rebuild. As soon as I loosened the 2 screws mounting it to the crankcase, fuel came pouring out of it - it was coming from the pulse pump pulse orifice and I don't think that's supposed to happen. I got it out and rebuilt it with PN# 21-857005A1. Popped it back in and torqued. Changed out the LP PP, plug and play and ran the motor - no leaks. Ran it for an hour, varied the RPM and still no leals and ran great, so I'm planning on heading to the lake tomorrow and trial running it there before I head down to the keys for a long delayed trip.



    On a side note, the smartcraft gages that are original to the boat were glazed over and I didn't want to use them after they were sent out for LCD replacements and still were unreadable in the sun. This is a smartcraft engine but the PCM was 10/2000 vintage and the smartcraft plug under the cowl was dead - believe me, I tried everything in the book. Finally got a 2002 135 Optimax PCM (revision 55, same PN as the 2001 PCM but the original was a R2). Voila, worked like a charm with a MercMonitor I picked up new in the box - it was supposed to be a Level 1 but a Level 3 head unit was in the box - bonus! The dealer here is sending mine out for a reflash, so I'll have an extra PCM in case I ever need it. The MercMonitor is really nice and it's also nice that the Raymarine Element 9HV dashboard picks up all the engine and trim data - water pressure is especially helpful when I'm running the flats.

    I'll update when I know I've fixed the gremlins. The Optimax has been a learning experience but I can see that I'll need to pick up a pressure gauge set for any more in depth work on the motor.

    Chuck
    Last edited by permit1850; 11-08-2021 at 10:56 AM. Reason: Correcting Smartcraft PCM date error.

  2. Mercury 3L/4 Stroke/Verado Moderator EuropeanAM's Avatar
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    #2
    Quote Originally Posted by Permit1850
    I forgot to add that I found out that PCM's dated later than 12/06/2000 has an active smartcraft plug and will work with MercMonitors and the like.


    Chuck- just a heads-up, this is NOT an accurate statement. There are numerous PCM's dated after that date that will never be Smartcraft Compatible, and also a number of calibrations that will only work with Smartcraft systems up through Version 3.0.

    Good catch on the Pulse Fuel Pump. Good catch on the low-pressure pump (though I will say that I'm not particularly fond of most of the aftermarket pumps).

    PCM- needs to match the 85961055 calibration (or the latest new PCM, 8M0086580).


    Dual Mercury Master Technician- for Mercury Outboards, Mercruiser and Mercury Racing at European Marine in Greenville, SC.
    Still consider myself a "Marine Apprentice" after 47 years (learn something new every day).
    Mercury Parts, Mercury Outboards, Smartcraft & Accessories, Injector Service, TDR Reeds- BBC Sponsor

  3. Member
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    #3
    Thanks for the smartcraft corrections Don (I removed the erroneous info), this smartcraft boondoggle was kicking my butt but it is worth the effort. The MercMonitor is the best thing I've done to the boat. I go OEM when I can but that AM pump has great reviews, so I'm chancing it - I'll keep my eye on it and report back if I have any issues. It looks like a quality piece and is identical to the OEM pump and mounting bracket I removed.

    Chuck

  4. Mercury 3L/4 Stroke/Verado Moderator EuropeanAM's Avatar
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    #4
    I will say that of the aftermarkets I've removed, that brand is built a lot better than most. And at least it's an external component you can get to in this case.


    Dual Mercury Master Technician- for Mercury Outboards, Mercruiser and Mercury Racing at European Marine in Greenville, SC.
    Still consider myself a "Marine Apprentice" after 47 years (learn something new every day).
    Mercury Parts, Mercury Outboards, Smartcraft & Accessories, Injector Service, TDR Reeds- BBC Sponsor

  5. Member
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    #5
    Gremlins are on hiatus thank goodness. Motor ran great and I ran the yellow out of it and went through a half tank of gas. Hopefully that's it for a while.

    Chuck