I am restoring a 1980s model Tracker and it originally had white styrofoam for flotation under the floor, is that the best thing to put back in or should I use that thicker foam they sometimes use for insulating houses? I would rather have something I can cut into strips and use rather than any kind of spray foam.
I would think a closed cell foam that won’t absorb water would be the best route.
2008 BULLET 21XD 2007 Merc 300xs
Pool noodles
XPS foams(the white chunky stuff and the blue or pink construction foam) are closed cell. I think the isocyanate boards (usually foil face) will absorb some water. Be aware that carpenter ants love to tunnel in the stuff.
When I restored a boat I got a sheet of pink 1" stuff and a dozen spray foam cans to fill in all the gaps. There is boat restore sub forum here and it may be slower traffic it may be better information
I would imagine that using a pour in or spray in foam would provide better sound deadening and even some structural reinforcement over just setting pieces of foam into the cavity.
http://www.bbcboards.net/showthread....4#post12140804
Page 8 has a picture of spray foam used.
Fish have fins, they swim
I want to avoid using spray foam.
I think that any 2 part foam has a lot of positives, but if you really don't want to use it for whatever reason, I would also consider not having any foam put in.Originally Posted by BassmanZF6
I'd use this stuff. https://www.totalboat.com/product/to...lotation-foam/
What for?
This. Used it on my Champ after digging out the front seat post mount. Easy to use.
I'm not sure I understand your question completely.
Pour in or spray in foam completely fills the cavity and adheres to the walls. This adds structural rigidity to your boat, and will give it a more solid feel and make it stronger.
Foam is only useful if you are sinking. It does nothing but add weight when you are floating around during normal operation. If you are not positive that the amount of foam will keep you floating in an emergency, then it does nothing more than add weight to your rig when you use a cut to fit method.
If you check with coast guard they will advise all the flotation to be above the water line. 1" or 2" Styrofoam from one of the box stores will work fine. Perfect spot for it is on the bottom of the decks . If you can in the bilge area, add about a 12x12" block of foam on both sides of the transom. It actually takes very little to float a boat. Its where you put it that maters.
Foam above the water line just makes it less likely to be exposed to water. The only thing that floatation cares about is bulk density of the vessel, not placement of foam relative to different spots of the vessel. The only time this would matter is if there was a risk of tipping over, but bass boats are so short that there really isn't a huge risk of tipover during normal operation and when running, foam placement won't stop you from rolling no matter where it is.
The big white bead foam producer is DREW Foam. See if any insulation suppliers can buy from DREW.
It's an aluminum boat, pretty much just a 1648 jon boat with a deck and compartments and it will only have a 9.9/15hp motor on it for fishing hp restricted lakes, so I am not to worried about structural rigidity. I just want it in case the boat starts to sink.
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