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  1. #1
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    Oct 2021
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    California
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    96 Vindicator Surging Issues

    Hi guys I have a 1996 Champion with a 96 Evinrude Vindicator 200 that I bought back in July, shortly after purchasing I had an issue with the motor surging when running at higher RPM’s. Would go down to as low as 2000 then surge back up to 5800. I replaced water separator ,fuel filter, primer bulb, pumped fuel into mason jar with primer bulb to check condition of fuel in tank (no gunk or water in it) changed spark plugs (which didn’t look fouled up) fixed cracked valve on primer solenoid, and added startron and seafom with next fill up. This issue went away for the next few trips which made me think it was fixed. My last trip we ran around a a lot and it ran strong all day until the way back to ramp the issue came back same symptoms surging at high rpms sounds like it’s stalling then shoots back up and is continuous. Idles and starts up fine unless it’s cold but I know thats common with these motors. Any ideas of what could be causing this? Any ideas would be appreciated!


    Planning on rebuilding carbs, replacing fuel lines, and replacing vacuum switch which I notice was leaking fuel when primer bulb was squeezed. Model number on motor is #E200STLEDM

  2. Member
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    Oct 2018
    Location
    Newbury, MA
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    289
    #2
    Nylok nuts (NOT wing nuts!) on the battery and all leads tight?
    "Life's too short for an ugly boat!"
    1985 totally refurbished Pro-Line 21A Cuddy - 175hp Evinrude FFI

  3. Member
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    Oct 2021
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    California
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    #3
    They are tight, definitely not wingnuts! but not nylok. Had this issue before changing out cranking battery and reterminating leads

  4. Member
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    Sep 2021
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    Salem, wi
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    772
    #4
    What have you done to inspect for fuel delivery issues between the primer bulb and the fuel tank? Same question for the fuel hose between the primer bulb and the engine. Same question for restriction at the anti-siphon valve. Delamination and internal degradation of the hose may be a culprit. These hoses are 25 years old. Here is a picture of what I am talking about.

    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by Bighare2; 10-21-2021 at 04:47 PM.

  5. Member
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    #5
    Quote Originally Posted by Bighare2 View Post
    What have you done to inspect for fuel delivery issues between the primer bulb and the fuel tank? Same question for the fuel hose between the primer bulb and the engine. Same question for restriction at the anti-siphon valve. Delamination and internal degradation of the hose may be a culprit. These hoses are 25 years old. Here is a picture of what I am talking about.
    For fuel delivery to motor I removed the line that connects to my VRO and pumped bulb till fuel came out into a mason jar. I let it sit for awhile to make sure there wasn’t water or sediment in it. Looked fine. I am currently in process of replacing all hoses leading to motor. Right now I am working on getting the pick up tube out of gas tank. What a pain in the butt! Sprayed a bunch of PB blaster on the fitting and letting it soak. I am curious to see what pickup tube looks like because I have notice this condition is a lot worse when tank is at a lower level. And when I get this fitting off I’ll be inspecting the anti-siphon valve which is the barb coming out of fitting correct?

  6. Member
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    Oct 2021
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    #6
    I think I may have found the issue, upon inspecting my pickup tube it was positioned in the fuel tank towards the splash well that is angled up. I think the fuel level was getting low enough that the end of tube wasn’t fully submerged and it was sucking air into the line. I routed the hose into the middle section of tank where it’s deepest. Will test on lake without fueling up to see what it does!

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    #7
    Yes the anti siphon is the barbed hose connector connector at the tank.

  8. Member
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    Oct 2021
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    #8
    Quote Originally Posted by Bighare2 View Post
    Yes the anti siphon is the barbed hose connector connector at the tank.
    Looks like a previous owner removed the check valve from the siphon valve. It being completely open wouldn’t cause issues would it?

  9. Member
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    Sep 2021
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    Salem, wi
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    #9
    No restriction there so ok

  10. Member
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    Oct 2021
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    California
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    #10
    Well problem isn’t fixed. To top it off starter went out on my last trip too, have to get that replaced before I continue troubleshooting. I do not believe it’s a fuel issue as I’ve ruled it all out and when I choke the motor as it surges it doesn’t pick back up just starts to big down more.

  11. Member
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    Apr 2020
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    Ontario
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    #11
    Remove the water seperator. I had the 96 johnson 200 venom. Installed a separator and the surging started. I replaced all the lines, bulb, fittings, fuel pump and nothing changed. Bypassed the separator and boom... problem solved. I understand how it seems with pushing the primer but it's fairly quick to bypass the separator and see. I'm 90% confident thats the fix.

  12. Member
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    Oct 2021
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    #12
    Quote Originally Posted by AndrewM-Fishing View Post
    Remove the water seperator. I had the 96 johnson 200 venom. Installed a separator and the surging started. I replaced all the lines, bulb, fittings, fuel pump and nothing changed. Bypassed the separator and boom... problem solved. I understand how it seems with pushing the primer but it's fairly quick to bypass the separator and see. I'm 90% confident thats the fix.
    Ill try that buddy thanks!

  13. Member
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    Jun 2021
    Location
    Jacksonville, FL
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    #13
    I am having this same problem with my 1996 Johnson 200 ocean runner right now. I haven't solved it. I could try removing separator also. I replaced filter and separator and installed new spark plugs, but still did it.

  14. Member
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    Oct 2021
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    California
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    #14
    Got the boat out again. Tried to bypass water separator and no luck. Doing it worse than before now has a hard time even at idle. Going to get another compression measurement and look into the electrical side. Any other ideas?

  15. Member
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    Jun 2021
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    Jacksonville, FL
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    #15
    I looked up under my flywheel and saw cracked, chipped, and a small section missing - of the magnets. I was told this could cause my issue. Which is similar to yours. I have new magnets to replace, but now I can't get the flywheel nut off. I am getting a impact wrench to try this week hopefully.

  16. Member
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    Sep 2021
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    Salem, wi
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    #16
    It will certainly cause erratic spark

  17. Member
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    Oct 2021
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    #17
    Quote Originally Posted by J200TXEDR View Post
    I looked up under my flywheel and saw cracked, chipped, and a small section missing - of the magnets. I was told this could cause my issue. Which is similar to yours. I have new magnets to replace, but now I can't get the flywheel nut off. I am getting a impact wrench to try this week hopefully.
    just checked they look great

  18. Member
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    Jun 2021
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    Jacksonville, FL
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    #18
    That is some good news Dr3w. I hope you can solve your problem. This is my first boat and I am just trying to learn also. I don't have more advice to give. Curious to learn how it goes for you.

  19. Member
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    Oct 2021
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    #19
    Quote Originally Posted by J200TXEDR View Post
    That is some good news Dr3w. I hope you can solve your problem. This is my first boat and I am just trying to learn also. I don't have more advice to give. Curious to learn how it goes for you.
    we shall see. Going to check my compression again and do some spark tests then go from there. I have heard a lot of people talking about the powerpack causing issues like this. But I’m the kind of guy that wants to troubleshoot and know for sure the part I’m changing is bad instead of crossing fingers and hoping for the best

  20. Member
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    Oct 2021
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    #20
    I have heard I need to ground the spark plug wires when performing compression test to prevent them from arcing / damaging other ignition parts. How would I go about doing that? Is there another easy way to prevent voltage from reaching the coil?

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