Question about Brake Pads and Heat

[R1Peacock]

I have a single axle trailer with DB-35 brakes and rotors. I don’t have issues with the brakes smelling or getting hot when traveling in Central Maryland which is relatively flat. A few times a year I go to a lake in Western Maryland and the route getting there and coming back takes you through the mountains. During those trips I definitely smell the brakes and the wheels get pretty hot. The DB-35 come with organic pads. Would switching to ceramic pads do a better job of keeping the brakes cooler. Not sure if ceramic is recommended for those rotors or not. I just want to make sure I have the best brakes for the driving conditions.

[Fishysam]

You will want to make sure the actuator in the tongue �� s releasing completely.

I'm not sure about your brakes but I put ceramic in mine and they not as good at stopping in my application but they are lasting longer and that's what I was after.

[javelin90]

As mentioned the actuator. Also check and make sure the calipers are releasing.

[R1Peacock]

Thanks guys — I replaced my actuator and calipers 2 years ago so the entire brake system is fairly new. On normal somewhat flat road trips the wheels only get slightly warm and there is no detectable dragging. Add the long hauls through the mountains and the wheels get pretty hot which has me concerned when I’m 100s of miles from home with the family. I pulled the manuals off the UFP website and will review all troubleshooting and inspection recommendations.

[javelin90]

By chance is the lake your speaking of just south west of Hanover and north east of Westminster? We travelled out that way 2 years ago and that was a nice lake.

[GJA]

Aren't you suppose to re-bleed the brakes with new fluid every 2 years?

[R1Peacock]

Yes, north of Westminster just over the PA border there are 2 lakes (Codorus Park - Lake Marbern) and Long Arm Lake. Marbern is larger and allows motors up to 25 horsepower. Long Arm is electric motor only. Since I have a 200HP engine I can just use the trolling motor. Codorus has several ramps but by far the best is the “main park ramp”. Long Arm has 1 ramp which can get pretty steep at times when the water draws down. I live 12 minutes from the Long Arm ramp. It use to be a great “sleeper” place and I could literally have the lake to myself. Over the years the crowds have grown and now most weekends in the summer there is a tournament of some kind (either bass boat or kayak). Kayak popularity has soared and there are some days where there could be 50+ on Long Arm (which is only about 200 acres in size).

I think my braking issue comes down to the tow vehicle. When I drive my F150 FX4 there is no problems with the trailer brakes overheating because the truck can hold its own. We often use my wife’s Honda Pilot on family trips - which does a great job in the mountains having a 9 speed transmission. It definitely gets pushed more on the downhill which applies the surge brakes more. I’ve read some Honda Forums and its been mentioned to use Sport mode in the mountains or downshifting to allow for more engine braking which should control the actuator from engaging the entire descent down the mountains. Getting to and from Deep Creek Lake forces you to drive I-68 through the mountains with long stretches of 6% grades. I’ll give the engine braking a shot.

[javelin90]

I have passed that lake past Hanover. Pretty place indeed.
I bleed/flush my brakes every three years. Some never bleed/flush their brake fluid. One who did not had busted metal brake line. Keeping the fluid flushed helps to keep the moisture out of the brake system from the tongue actuator to the brake calipers from sticking.
I flush the fluid on my vehicles every three years.

[billnorman1]

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I think my braking issue comes down to the tow vehicle. When I drive my F150 FX4 there is no problems with the trailer brakes overheating because the truck can hold its own. We often use my wife’s Honda Pilot on family trips - which does a great job in the mountains having a 9 speed transmission. It definitely gets pushed more on the downhill which applies the surge brakes more. I’ve read some Honda Forums and its been mentioned to use Sport mode in the mountains or downshifting to allow for more engine braking which should control the actuator from engaging the entire descent down the mountains. Getting to and from Deep Creek Lake forces you to drive I-68 through the mountains with long stretches of 6% grades. I’ll give the engine braking a shot.

Any braking could actuate the trailer brakes, engine or foot. There are some steep mountains out there and the boat must be "pushing" you on the downhill runs. If so it might actuate the brakes, too bad there isn't a way to add an external spring if you're in steep grade territory to keep the brakes off when going downhill. My best guess.

[R1Peacock]

Just came home from the Western Maryland Mountains and used Sport mode on my wife’s Honda Pilot Touring Edition. Drove several 12-15 mile stretches with 6% grades and after nearly 90 minutes of driving I stopped at a McDonalds and the wheels are hardly warm. Engine braking on the smaller SUV solved the problem. For years we took my F150 and I never noticed the brakes getting warm. The boat just pushes the Pilot more on downhills enough to engage the actuator. — problem solved. Thanks to everyone for the replies and making me think through this.

[tcesni]

Reading this thread makes me think that I should bleed my brakes this winter and replace the brake fluid. They haven’t been touched in eight years, but most of the time the trailer is sitting empty in the garage.

[R1Peacock]

Plenty of good videos on YouTube providing step by step instructions - not a difficult job. My pads and rotors look good after 2 years, I’ll be concentrating on the fluid and bearings in the spring.

[javelin90]

It is not difficult to bleed the brakes.
1. lower tongue on boat trailer with enough room at floor level to use a flat head screw driver and work the master cylinder plunger.
2. Place clear tube on bottom inside of clean water bottle 1/2 filled with fluid.
3. place end of clear tube on brake caliper bleeder nipple.
4. top off brake master cylinder with clean fluid.
5. use flat head of screw driver and work the plunger underside of trailer rocking forwards and backwards a couple of times.
6. loosen brake bleeder furthest from brake line and on the opposite side of the trailer.
7. Pivot plunger underside of master cylinder many times, then close bleeder and move on to the next one.

Others will have some ways to do it too.
For me i use a mity vac tank and evacuate out the old fluid first, then fill with clean fluid and begin the bleeding procedure.
Message me if I can help.

[Texas Larry]

Easy power bleeding. I use it on all my vehicles too. Makes it easy for one person to do the bleeding / fluid replacement. It's amazing how nasty the brake fluid gets!

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