150 Intruder problems

[aw5716]

Model number E150GLEOM. Serial number G 03905792. 1995 Javelin 379T. Hard to crank. Won't idle. I have to choke it and press the gas. When I put into gear it will die most of the time. I can get it cranked and it will rev up and eventually I can go. I did a spark test with an inline spark tester and had no spark on 2 lower plug wires on passenger side. I thought maybe my testers clamp slipped off the ground. I replaced the power pack and 2 lower coils. New plugs that the power pack required gapped at .030. New water pump. 2 new thermostats. It had a 26p prop on it. Prop was 6 inches below pad. I got to 5000 rpm. I got a 6 inch jackplate and a 24p prop set at 3 inches below pad. Can only get to 4000 rpm. Engine seems too high. I talked to the previous owner tonight who said that he had the same problems and a mechanic replaced the power pack because 2 cylinders weren't firing.

[Simply_M]

Sounds like low compression. Did this start suddenly? Did you just get the boat and motor?

[ChampioNman]

Did you replace the optical sensor (EET) when you replaced the pack? It is best practice to replace that when you replace the pack. Tested stator output?

[aw5716]

No. I didn't know I needed to change the optical sensor as well. I will change it I guess. I have not tested the stator. Can you tell me how to do that please? I also ordered Jerrys easy timer ignition analyzer off ebay.

[aw5716]

Just checked compression 90-100 on all cylinders.

Sounds like low compression. Did this start suddenly? Did you just get the boat and motor?

[ChampioNman]

No. I didn't know I needed to change the optical sensor as well. I will change it I guess. I have not tested the stator. Can you tell me how to do that please? I also ordered Jerrys easy timer ignition analyzer off ebay.

Download the service manual from Self Fixer from the sticky above. Too long to type you'll need a DVA for your meter to test out put.

[aw5716]

Downloaded the omc manual. Stator checks out. Jerrys easy timer is showing the optical sensor is good. I have a new one.
The bottom of the vro pump was leaking fuel, on the edges of small rectangular plastic piece that can't be replaced. I cleaned it and put marine jb weld on it. If it doesn't hold I'll get the double stacked pump from max rules.
Looking in the carbs on the port side pieces of the carburetor to manifold gasket were visible. The orange one. Bolts were pretty loose already when I took carbs off and manifold off. Maybe that caused it to slide down. I think the reeds look ok but I don't really know what I'm looking at.
Throttle and shifter cable bracket on engine were loose. Clear carb roller is missing. Parts will be here Thursday.

Download the service manual from Self Fixer from the sticky above. Too long to type you'll need a DVA for your meter to test out put.

[ChampioNman]

As long as you can't see any light coming thru the reeds and reed plate you are OK.

[aw5716]

Reeds look good. I did everything you suggested and everything I talked about above. It idles good sometimes. Still can’t get on plane or above 4000 rpm at WOT. Any thoughts?

[ChampioNman]

Make sure all of your high speed orifices are seated fully in the carb bowls.

[aw5716]

They are all seated. Just checked them all. At WOT I pushed the choke in and it bogs down. Electrical?

[Bassmeister]

Would be a safe bet.

[aw5716]

Would be a safe bet.

What would you check next?

[aw5716]

Update. Still lost. Found shift interrupter switch half out of its bracket. Bracket seems stretched out. Tests good. Put it on muffs. In neutral or in gear when I depress plunger engine dies. No idea where to turn with this info. Any help would be appreciated.

[aw5716]

Make sure all of your high speed orifices are seated fully in the carb bowls.

Put a 20p raker on it to try. Did better. Went to 4500 rpm’s and 40 mph. Would surge at times to 5000 rpms. Reading on battery voltage gauge maxed out at 18 volts when boat is running.

[ChampioNman]

Shift interrupt switch should only kill one bank not the motor sounds like power pack.

[aw5716]

Shift interrupt switch should only kill one bank not the motor sounds like power pack.

It has a brand new power pack. I don’t have a load tester to test. I’ll get one. Pulled flywheel with harmonic balancer pulley and found bottom of magnets damaged and black shiny dry puddles that leaked out of stator. Insulation? Replace stator and magnets? Could new power pack be ruined because of stator and magnet issue?

[Simply_M]

Looking at some troubleshooting tips on cdi electronics , if you have a miss at any rpm they suggest unplugging yellow wires to the rectifier and see if the problem goes away.

[tnsportsman86]

I had the same problem as you on a 1993 150 intruder. I replaced the PP and Optical sensor. Still couldn't go above 4500 rpm without is surging on me. It turned out to be the stator and it damaged the new PP. So I had to replace stator, PP (again) and optical sensor then it ran great again.

[aw5716]

I had the same problem as you on a 1993 150 intruder. I replaced the PP and Optical sensor. Still couldn't go above 4500 rpm without is surging on me. It turned out to be the stator and it damaged the new PP. So I had to replace stator, PP (again) and optical sensor then it ran great again.

Really? Wow I had no idea that a bad stator could damage a new pp. I’m still waiting on all parts to come in. I’ve got the load tester to test pp. So we’ll see. Hopefully everything will be here tomorrow. Thank you for your input. This has been beyond frustrating.