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  1. Member Rangeric79's Avatar
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    #21
    I have sought out, and received info on this subject, from most of the guys in this thread. I figured, just for reference, some may be interested in my set up/results.

    (2) Ionic 125 aHR in parallel. Used for starting (2018 Yamaha 250SHO) and all electronics. With a Sterling protect device installed.
    (4) Lowrance Carbons, 3D box/Trans At box, TM150, Thru hull transducer, NMEA, Total scan, At, & 360 on Ultrex.
    (1) Huminbird helix12 w/Mega 360

    All electronics are on a dedicated blue seas fuse block.
    I did some on the water testing for interference with this set up: getting no interference w/pumps. Do sometimes get some (cross talk) between front and back transducers.

    (3) Ionic aHr for the ultrex 36v trolling motor

    Running mostly Lake Ontario/1000 islands area, this set up has been flawless this season.
    Generally fishing 10-12hrs per/day.... And running all electronics, the most I have ever drained the Ionic's is 46% while maintaining a steady 12.5-12.7 volts all day on all units!

    AT2.jpg AT3.jpg d4.jpg
    Last edited by Rangeric79; 02-26-2022 at 01:24 PM.

  2. Member bloodman's Avatar
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    #22
    Quote Originally Posted by Rangeric79 View Post
    I have sought out, and received info on this subject, from most of the guys in this thread. I figured, just for reference, some may be interested in my set up/results.

    (2) Iconic 125 aHR in parallel. Used for starting (2018 Yamaha 250SHO) and all electronics. With a Sterling protect device installed.
    (4) Lowrance Carbons, 3D box/Trans At box, TM150, Thru hull transducer, NMEA, Total scan, At, & 360 on Ultrex.
    (1) Huminbird helix12 w/Mega 360

    All electronics are on a dedicated blue seas fuse block.
    I did some on the water testing for interference with this set up: getting no interference w/pumps. Do sometimes get some (cross talk) between front and back transducers.

    (3) Iconic aHr for the ultrex 36v trolling motor

    Running mostly Lake Ontario/1000 islands area, this set up has been flawless this season.
    Generally fishing 10-12hrs per/day.... And running all electronics, the most I have ever drained the Iconic's is 46% while maintaining a steady 12.5-12.7 volts all day on all units!

    AT2.jpg AT3.jpg d4.jpg
    Amazing. So you have dual 125 for starting and electronics in parallel with the Sterling protect as Marc suggested? Might just be my next move except I think I'm gonna have to get the heater with it as I fish freezing conditions rarely and am afraid of shutdown in the cold.

  3. Member Rangeric79's Avatar
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    #23
    Yes, that's correct. (2) 125's in parallel with no combiner, just the sterling device. It's really nice to have good steady volts to all the units, all day long......no worries. Just my opinion, but I think AGM's are just a waste of money at this point. I guess time will tell.

  4. Member bloodman's Avatar
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    #24
    Quote Originally Posted by Rangeric79 View Post
    Yes, that's correct. (2) 125's in parallel with no combiner, just the sterling device. It's really nice to have good steady volts to all the units, all day long......no worries. Just my opinion, but I think AGM's are just a waste of money at this point. I guess time will tell.
    Agree on the AGMs but was afraid with the Merc. Gonna change that next year though. Thanks!

  5. BBC SPONSOR/ Shallow Water Anchors Moderator
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    #25
    Quote Originally Posted by bloodman View Post
    Agree on the AGMs but was afraid with the Merc. Gonna change that next year though. Thanks!
    no need be afraid of lithium w a merc. not a warranty void w a lithium with proper BMS

  6. Member bloodman's Avatar
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    #26
    Quote Originally Posted by KandKKustomz View Post
    no need be afraid of lithium w a merc. not a warranty void w a lithium with proper BMS
    I just may become a fan boy now...lol
    Thanks

  7. Member
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    #27
    Quote Originally Posted by bloodman View Post
    What happens if these batteries are run in parallel?
    I think it is a very interesting concept and if I had room, need, and desire for all the weight of a lead battery I'd gladly do it. The lithium battery would make a great battery maintainer for the lead battery. I'm full lithium now and no regrets

    bobcoy gets credit for finding the article:

    https://www.zwerfcat.nl/en/lithium-hybrid.html
    2018 Ranger 1880 MS
    200 Verado L4
    Solix 12 SI G1
    XNT 14 HWT dual spectrum 2D on Y cable
    Ulterra 112 Ipilot Link
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    Ionic lithium batteries 3)100 1)125 installed 6/20
    MK460PC on board charger
    Stealth 1 DC lithium so-so about 6 amps per battery

  8. Member
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    #28
    I still am not privy as to how a lithium starting battery can disconnect itself from a motor while the motor continues to run just fine. If that is indeed what happens.

    My initial thinking was that a mini lead acid battery might be contained within the BMS. The BMS disconnects the lithium battery whenever that needs to happen but the motor continues to run on the mini lead acid battery. If the motor ever were to need power from the boat, more than the mini lead acid battery could provide, then perhaps the lithium battery could be quickly reconnected. Without the motor ever knowing what is happening.

    Still wondering as I wander. Trying to go further and farther.

    I like that lithium-hybrid article. Thanks.

  9. Member
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    #29
    Nice to have others trying to push the envelope and to compare results. We all benefit from each other's experiences when shared on this forum. Especially us early adopters.
    ciao,
    Marc

  10. BBC SPONSOR/ Shallow Water Anchors Moderator
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    #30
    Quote Originally Posted by bloodman View Post
    I just may become a fan boy now...lol
    Thanks

  11. Member
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    #31
    This is very interesting Thanks. So for charging are you using two banks from the charger or just one?

  12. Member
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    #32
    In my case my Stealth Charger has one set of leads (bank) for the starting battery and a second set of leads for the house battery. The DC charger portion connects to the starting battery which powers the DC charger to charge the trolling motor batteries.
    ciao,
    Marc

  13. Member
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    #33
    So I have a Dual Pro if I were to go with this set up three banks will go to my trolling motor batteries that leaves one bank for the 2 starting batteries. Would I need a separate single bank charger or will one bank work for both batteries in parallel?

  14. Member haus9393's Avatar
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    #34
    Quote Originally Posted by willywonka View Post
    So I have a Dual Pro if I were to go with this set up three banks will go to my trolling motor batteries that leaves one bank for the 2 starting batteries. Would I need a separate single bank charger or will one bank work for both batteries in parallel?
    It will work yes. I have some friends that run this setup. Actually in theory my power pole charge is like this. It puts 30amps or so into my cranking setup. Each battery gets 15amps. It splits pretty evenly they are hooked in parallel. If it’s only a 10amp dual pro it will only put 5amps into each battery which may take a long time to charge the system back up depending on how dead the batteries are.

    2023 Ford F150 XLT Super Crew 2.7L Ecoboost FX4
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    Dual 10' Blades/ Lowrance Ghost/ Bobs Hydraulic Plate
    225ah cranking / 100ah trolling. Ionic/Relion lithium

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  15. Member
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    Big Sandy, TX
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    #35
    So in a nutshell, if you have 2 Lithiums in parallel. You can connect a Mercury's positive lead to 1st Lithium's positive and negative lead to 2nd Lithium's negative. To equalize charging, yes or no?

    For a charger, I'm thinking a Minn Kota MK-550-PCL. 5-bank, 10amp per bank.
    Last edited by LittleGazoo; 10-24-2021 at 04:44 PM.

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  17. Member bloodman's Avatar
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    #37
    Quote Originally Posted by Team Dougherty View Post
    That is exactly what I was hoping to see. Thank you

  18. Member
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    #38
    How do you connect the Sterling device?

  19. Member
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    #39
    Quote Originally Posted by rangerranger View Post
    How do you connect the Sterling device?
    You simply attach the positive lead to the positive terminal of the starting battery, and the neg lead to the negative battery post. If the alternator spikes the Sterling device absorbs the spike so the alternator isn't damaged. There is a good video on their website.
    ciao,
    Marc

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