07 Optimax 150 XL oil pump prime

[GSP_Lures]

<1b472302>

How is it going? This is my first post here I came across this forum while searching for information.

I have an 07 Optimax XL with 112 hours on it and I have to replace the oil tank due to a bad float.

I did get a few quotes from a couple merc dealers to prime it using the ddt computer which ranged from $60 to $250.

I have read alot of posts about putting it back into break in mode and they usually end up with arguments from both sides saying it's fine and the others saying not to but never any reasoning behind it.

I have two questions that I hope you guys can clear up for me (sorry if they are dumb questions but I am not too familiar with outboards outside of basic maintenance)

If I put it in break in mode (manual states for 120 min. above 3500 rpms) outside of burning extra oil and changing the plugs after break in. Is there anything else that could potentially damage the motor?

I also read the sticky about breaking in the motor do I have to follow that procedure since the motor has already been broke in or just run it above 3500 for 2 hours until the internal clock takes it out of break in?

Thank you,

[EuropeanAM]

If you would, please take a moment to review the Announcements at the top of the Forum, and be sure to provide the Required Info (serial number) when posting. Thanks!

Break-In Reset: In addition to burning double the volume of oil for a MINIMUM of 120 minutes (it may be considerably more depending on how you drive), and in addition to the spark plugs that you may have to replace due to fouling, there are a couple of other draw-backs:

1. Potential of CARBON FOULING (pistons, exhaust, direct injectors and exhaust tuner)

2. Break-in Reset ERASES the RUN HISTORY hours, as well as the Freeze Frame (Fault) History, and the Fault Seconds Counters. Only the TOTAL RUNTIME hours remain.

Another option is to look into getting your own diagnostic setup that you can use in the future. Rinda's DIACOM setup is a good value.

[GSP_Lures]

Serial number is 1b472302(sorry was at work when I posted didn't have the number on hand).

I appreciate the response!

I was aware of the carbon fouling potential, just not sure how sensitive modern outboards were to it (first real outboard I have owned outside of a 9.9 kicker that I just have to maintain) . I figured if I took the boat out and ran it above 3500 for 2 hours then came back in to change out the spark plugs it would keep it to a minimum, but unsure if that will be enough to do any lasting damage.

I was unaware that it will erase the history I don't want that! I appreciate it.

I probably am going to go with the marina that wanted $60 as long as all they had to do was plug in the computer. I called a few and had to explain the process and why it has to be done, so I won't be taking it there.

When I change the oil reservoir is there any gotchas that are not included in the manual?

Just says unhook and plug hoses pull 3 bolts, replace everything fill the reservoir about half way, prime the pump, then run the motor with the cap loose to purge the reservoir

[JOE54]

follow manual

[GSP_Lures]

Well I got the tank installed and an appointment for next Thursday to have the pump primed. I guess $60 isn't bad considering I know its done right!

I did look into the old tank to see where the failure was and it was the magnet unglued issue that seems to be common.

I saw a video of a guy that used a dremel to get the float out and reglue the magnet to the float. Do any of you have any experience with this was wondering what type of adhesive to use?(2 ton epoxy maybe?) Not sure what will not break down or contaminate the oil. Would be nice to have a spare since they are on backorder and with today's world who knows for how long.

[leonreno]

You could easily spend the $60 for spark plugs for that motor.

[GSP_Lures]

If the only option I had was the shop for $250 I would have gone that route. The plugs currently in the motor have less than 2 hours on them so for the same price I don't have to fight the number 6 plug. Also already had next Thursday off so I don't have to take an extra day off of work and my launch is a quarter mile from the shop. It will be done the same day so get it primed then head out for a few hours to catch some smallies.

[SilverFox579]

Pull the lower cowls and never fight #6 again, besides, you really need to check the compressor strainer at least annually, and to do that the port lower cowl must be off.

[GSP_Lures]

I appreciate it. I just got the boat about a month ago. The previous owner had a shop do all the maintenance on it (I know its reliable because I have a copy of the records from the shop). I have read others that said getting the lower cowl off is just as bad as fighting the #6 plug, but have not done it yet so I'm not sure how reliable that information is. It was something about the bolt that is by the front latch being hard to remove and install.

[kls2020]

Believe in what Silverfox says about pulling the lower cowl off to change the plugs . There is a lot of hoses , injector plug connectors and wires in the way along with difficult angles to thread the new plugs in and if you cross thread and or strip the plug threads in the heads you will be kicking yourself .

[IowaAngler]

with the correct tools, removing the lower cowling is a breeze. you'll need a universal (swing head) socket 1/4" drive. I also bought a flexible extension. Both were bought at my local O'reilly's. You need to get comfortable removing it in my opinion, makes it way easy to look for leaks, replace the fuel filter, clean the compressor strainer, check the lower cowling gaskets and so on.

I appreciate it. I just got the boat about a month ago. The previous owner had a shop do all the maintenance on it (I know its reliable because I have a copy of the records from the shop). I have read others that said getting the lower cowl off is just as bad as fighting the #6 plug, but have not done it yet so I'm not sure how reliable that information is. It was something about the bolt that is by the front latch being hard to remove and install.

[EuropeanAM]

+100 on removing the lower cowlings to access lower spark plugs (and a number of other items).

[GSP_Lures]

I appreciate the info from everyone. I am a good car mechanic/and I guess decent stern drive mechanic (rebuilt my other boat motor and boat) just not too familiar with outboards. With that being said I have plenty of correct tools just hoping my wife won't sell them for what I told her I paid for them when I pass.

I will end up removing the lower cowling when I winterize the motor in a few weeks. I like to get familiar with every motor I own, just a little gun shy on this motor being it only has 112 hours on it (afraid to break anything).

Would have made the oil tank a breeze without the lower cowling. Wasn't much room for the bottom bolt or hose connections!

[JOE54]

tank can be done without removal of cowls , done hundreds on 2.5 mtrs

[GSP_Lures]

I did mine without removing the cowling. I was just saying it would have been easier to get to the hoses/bottom bolt without it on.

[JOE54]

true ^^^^^^

[GSP_Lures]

They definitely did not engineer the motor with working on it in mind. I can say though the couple of times I took it out I love it. I don't think I would ever purchase another stern drive.

[SilverFox579]

I have read others that said getting the lower cowl off is just as bad as fighting the #6 plug, but have not done it yet so I'm not sure how reliable that information is. It was something about the bolt that is by the front latch being hard to remove and install.

It really isn't that hard, the biggest pain is the bolt beneath the cable/shifter harness entry and I bitch about that every time I service mine BUT I'd rather fight that than risk a stripped #6 any day and, of course, there's no way check the compressor strainer without removing the port cowl. When finished I sit back and enjoy my ice cold adult beverage.

[GSP_Lures]

It really isn't that hard, the biggest pain is the bolt beneath the cable/shifter harness entry and I bitch about that every time I service mine BUT I'd rather fight that than risk a stripped #6 any day and, of course, there's no way check the compressor strainer without removing the port cowl. When finished I sit back and enjoy my ice cold adult beverage.

I definitely agree, a cross thread in the block would be a really bad day. So outside of the 4 bolts is it just the plug for the auxiliary trim button that has to be unplugged then it will come off? I found jt in the manual and it only showed the 4 bolts but I know that button is on the cowling (at least on mine)

[EuropeanAM]

That's correct- possibly the rigging flange may have to be moved.