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  1. #1
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    Portland, OR
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    94 225HP Vindicator (Model E225STLERC) - will not crank

    Hello all!
    Seeking advice/assistance. '94 225 Vindicator. Out fishing over the weekend and boat ran and started fine. After the last stop, started the motor, put it in gear and it died (sometimes does this as it loads up). Turned the key, the starter horn sounded, but nothing happened (no click from solenoid or anything other than the little beep from the switch). Moved shifter from neutral to forward to neutral to reverse and back several times. Tried starting multiple times with the same result.

    Once back home, I have tried again with same result. Put voltmeter on the positive side of the solenoid and had good numbers, nothing on the negative side. The solenoid does not click when the switch is turned, but I did heard a clicking noise behind the console where the switch is...no idea what that tells me. I've ordered a new OMC solenoid and will install when it arrives in a few days. In the meantime, are there other tests or actions I can take to determine with certainty whether I have a switch, solenoid, start or other issue.

    Any thoughts or ideas are greatly appreciated!!!

  2. Member
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    Apr 2020
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    Ontario
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    #2
    You could have a loose connection behind the ignition switch. Pull the switch out and re-seat the connections. In the throttle controls is a "neutral safety switch". You'll need to check that as well. Does sound like the solenoid based on your testing. Did you check the fuse in the wiring harness on the motor? I don't know if that will cause a no crank condition but there's one there.

  3. Member
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    Dec 2020
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    #3
    Thanks for the suggestions, Andrew! I just finished replacing the solenoid with an OMC part. No joy...still won't crank. I have also picked up a new ignition switch and will be replacing that next. Hoping that does the trick. If not, on to the "neutral safety switch" although I'll have to go to the manual to figure out how to check and replace that.

  4. Member
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    Jul 2021
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    Oneonta,Alabama
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    #4
    When you go to test the neutral safety switch, just jump across the contacts or connect the wires together to see if it will crank. May keep you from swapping parts needlessly. There is a connector at the motor that connects all the wires from the console to the motor,maybe pull it apart and check for corrosion and bad connection. When checking for voltage like you did at the solenoid, sometimes a digital meter will show voltage but there won’t be any amps to it. Verify with a load such as a light bulb.

  5. Member
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    Dec 2020
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    Portland, OR
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    #5
    I had already purchased a new ignition switch, so I put that in today and tested. Same result...no crank. Next I took the suggestion to jump across the contacts and the motor cranked. Based on this, I'm leaning heavily toward the neutral safety switch. Considering the motor started on the water and then died after I put it in gear, then wouldn't restart in neutral, it seems to make sense (just surprised it happened that quickly). I disconnected the remote control wiring harness from the engine harness and did a continuity test per the instructions in the Clymer manual and there is no current when in neutral, forward, or reverse. Per the manual this indicates the switch is bad and needs to be replaced.

    This leads me to the follow-on question. This is the original control that was in the boat new. It is a concealed side mount control and from the experience of putting a Land n Sea hotfoot in many years ago, I know getting the controls out to replace the switch is not going to be an easy task. Further, taking the control apart to replace the switch will likely be difficult as well. Aside from the obvious (the costs), would I be better off to replace the entire control with a newer OMC version or bite the bullet to pull the old control out and try to replace the switch?

    Thanks for the help and ideas thus far!

  6. SC Club Moderator ChampioNman's Avatar
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    May 2004
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    Crawfordville, FL/Lake Hartwell, SC
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    #6
    Depending on your control there are two different switches. The gray plastic one is 0173500 MSRP $49.99 and the chrome handle is 0173480 MSRP $65.99 from www.marineengine.com.

  7. Member
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    Jul 2021
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    Oneonta,Alabama
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    #7
    I have a hot foot in my boat and don’t use the neutral safety switch. Haven’t seen where it’s needed in my opinion.

  8. SC Club Moderator ChampioNman's Avatar
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    May 2004
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    Crawfordville, FL/Lake Hartwell, SC
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    #8
    Hot foot is simply throttle, neutral safety switch is in the control to make sure the motor doesn't start in gear.