Middle TN rivers - jerkbait recommendations

[dragon1]

Hello Y'all...I am relatively new to this area of Middle TN, and although I have had quite a bit of success with catching two PB smallies length-wise in my local rivers - I would like to find out what jerkbaits to use that won't dive so deep as to snag on all the obstacles and rocks here. To be clear, I am not opposed to 110 sized baits as I have caught nice smallies on full sized Buzzjets and 115 sized walking baits and 5/8 oz spinnerbaits, rather I am looking for a bait that will shallow suspend and allow me to fish a stop and go while avoiding diving too deep as to get snagged. FWIW, my very first fish here was on a #11 Shiner pattern floating Rapala back in mid April, and I have actually caught several good bass on floating Rapalas since.

I plan to likely use mono/co-poly or braid + leader to avoid fluoro taking the bait too deep, and will use various Med-MH baitcast and spinning combos.

TIA.

[DrewFlu33]

I don't have a good suggestion for a suspending jerkbait that dives shallower than any other, but one simple thing you might try is upsizing line on your favorite baits otherwise. I've fished jerkbaits on 16-18 lb (Sunline) fluoro leaders at times to keep them up, and have found that will take over a foot off of the depth they dive compared to a 12 lb leader. It might even be 2 feet. You always hear guys talking about line diameter and running depth with regard to crankbaits, yet it rarely comes up in the context of jerkbaits. My experience has been that jerkbaits are more sensitive to line diameter than crankbaits when it comes to running depth. To your point, going with a mono/copoly instead will likely keep the bait up even more than comparably sized fluoro.

Another thought is tweaking a bait that doesn't work well for you currently to achieve your desired results. First thought was going with lighter hooks on a suspending bait to get it to slow float, though that's likely to create different issues and it really doesn't give you what you want. Maybe a better alternative would be to go with heavier hooks on a floating bait to get it to dive deeper and come closer to suspending, or otherwise add weight via solder around hook shanks, SuspenDots, SuspenStrips, or whatever your preferred method is. Adding weight to a "topwater" jerkbait like a Bagley Minnow B or similar might accomplish exactly what you're wanting to do.

[dragon1]

I don't have a good suggestion for a suspending jerkbait that dives shallower than any other, but one simple thing you might try is upsizing line on your favorite baits otherwise. I've fished jerkbaits on 16-18 lb (Sunline) fluoro leaders at times to keep them up, and have found that will take over a foot off of the depth they dive compared to a 12 lb leader. It might even be 2 feet. You always hear guys talking about line diameter and running depth with regard to crankbaits, yet it rarely comes up in the context of jerkbaits. My experience has been that jerkbaits are more sensitive to line diameter than crankbaits when it comes to running depth. To your point, going with a mono/copoly instead will likely keep the bait up even more than comparably sized fluoro.

Another thought is tweaking a bait that doesn't work well for you currently to achieve your desired results. First thought was going with lighter hooks on a suspending bait to get it to slow float, though that's likely to create different issues and it really doesn't give you what you want. Maybe a better alternative would be to go with heavier hooks on a floating bait to get it to dive deeper and come closer to suspending, or otherwise add weight via solder around hook shanks, SuspenDots, SuspenStrips, or whatever your preferred method is. Adding weight to a "topwater" jerkbait like a Bagley Minnow B or similar might accomplish exactly what you're wanting to do.

Yeppers, I had all these discussions with a couple of buddies on the Storm suspend dots (no longer available?) and adding solder to the hooks (which creates some issues with the fish having more leverage to throw the hooks and can impede on hook gap (this gap allows for better "bite" on the hookset). I do like the idea of playing with several different hook sizes...so that means I'll be running "more baths" again instead of taking showers. LOL.

Aside the LC Pointer 65 and 78, which other baits are good? I also have some C'ultiva 65s that also work well, but would like a larger bait akin to the 78 sizes.

Thanks for your input.

[DrewFlu33]

The SuspenDots are still available, though I personally like the SuspenStrips better. This is primarily because it's easy to apply them to a bait then really dial the ballast exactly how you want by scoring the strip with a blade and peeling it off in small sections. https://www.tacklewarehouse.com/Stor...ge-STHACC.html

I also don't like the solder on the hooks, partially for the reasons you mentioned and partially because I feel like it deadens the action of the bait, I just mentioned it as I know that's the preferred method for adding weight for a lot of guys.

I rarely throw small jerkbaits, so I'm probably not the best to make suggestions there. The smaller (09 size, 3.5") Rapala Ripstop is one I've had luck with, and might be a good option if you're planning to switch hooks as their stock ones are just terrible. That's still a bit bigger than even the 78 sizes you mentioned though, and it still probably gets down close to 4 feet though I'm confident heavier line would make a huge difference on that bait. Everything else I throw is in the 110 size range and dives in the 4-6+ foot range. I usually find I have better luck with bigger (within reason) jerkbaits for smallies anyhow, for what that's worth.

[dragon1]

The SuspenDots are still available, though I personally like the SuspenStrips better. This is primarily because it's easy to apply them to a bait then really dial the ballast exactly how you want by scoring the strip with a blade and peeling it off in small sections. https://www.tacklewarehouse.com/Stor...ge-STHACC.html

I also don't like the solder on the hooks, partially for the reasons you mentioned and partially because I feel like it deadens the action of the bait, I just mentioned it as I know that's the preferred method for adding weight for a lot of guys.

I rarely throw small jerkbaits, so I'm probably not the best to make suggestions there. The smaller (09 size, 3.5") Rapala Ripstop is one I've had luck with, and might be a good option if you're planning to switch hooks as their stock ones are just terrible. That's still a bit bigger than even the 78 sizes you mentioned though, and it still probably gets down close to 4 feet though I'm confident heavier line would make a huge difference on that bait. Everything else I throw is in the 110 size range and dives in the 4-6+ foot range. I usually find I have better luck with bigger (within reason) jerkbaits for smallies anyhow, for what that's worth.

Good stuff Drew, appreciate ya.

[Alumicraft145]

Great info. I'll add a little. Husky jerk. Available in different sizes and colors. Good price and readily available. EBay is infested with them. It's a great lure to " match the hatch". Some go a bit deeper than others. Depends on the finish and water temp.
You mentioned " river" to me that means one lure ROGUE. Floating and suspending. Still one of my favorite lures. Guy on the swap board is selling a nice bunch for a great price. I weigh mine at the post office, quite a bit of difference in the colors. The metalflake painted ones are a bit heavier and quieter than the metal finish ones.
Last option for me is a bomber long a. The small one is a great lure. Caught some nice smb Monday on one.
Jointed rapala has bit of a following here in the northeast. Nobody talks about it but I see a lot of them tied on at bass tournaments.
Get a bottle of jim beam, turn the lights out and get on ebay some night. In a few days some amazing jerkbait will show up at your house. I just an old rogue that is so nice I'm afraid to fish with it!!

[dragon1]

Great info. I'll add a little. Husky jerk. Available in different sizes and colors. Good price and readily available. EBay is infested with them. It's a great lure to " match the hatch". Some go a bit deeper than others. Depends on the finish and water temp.
You mentioned " river" to me that means one lure ROGUE. Floating and suspending. Still one of my favorite lures. Guy on the swap board is selling a nice bunch for a great price. I weigh mine at the post office, quite a bit of difference in the colors. The metalflake painted ones are a bit heavier and quieter than the metal finish ones.
Last option for me is a bomber long a. The small one is a great lure. Caught some nice smb Monday on one.
Jointed rapala has bit of a following here in the northeast. Nobody talks about it but I see a lot of them tied on at bass tournaments.
Get a bottle of jim beam, turn the lights out and get on ebay some night. In a few days some amazing jerkbait will show up at your house. I just an old rogue that is so nice I'm afraid to fish with it!!

Nice, thanks for the input!

[basscat21]

Tennis racket tape works very well to weight baits

https://www.amazon.com/SummerHouse-T...dDbGljaz10cnVl

[dragon1]

Tennis racket tape works very well to weight baits

https://www.amazon.com/SummerHouse-T...dDbGljaz10cnVl

Dang, WOW - perfect Redneck Ingenuity! Thanks for sharing!

[FryDog62]

I've personally had better luck with soft jerk baits on rivers for smallmouth. Specifically a 5 inch Caffeine Shad on a 4/0 3/32 oz Owner Twistlock Light.

[dragon1]

I've personally had better luck with soft jerk baits on rivers for smallmouth. Specifically a 5 inch Caffeine Shad on a 4/0 3/32 oz Owner Twistlock Light.

Thanks Mango...been reading up on the Caffeine Shad, impressive reviews on it!

[reason162]

I also don't like the solder on the hooks, partially for the reasons you mentioned and partially because I feel like it deadens the action of the bait

This is a pretty nerdy disagreement but...imo any weight glued directly to the bait will deaden the action much more than weight that hangs off the hook hangers.

The more weight glued to the bait, the more mass it has to overcome to roll, vs anything off the hook hangers that can pivot with the split rings. Just the way I see the physics of this thing.

I use these crankbait figure 8 clips, but adding weight directly to the hooks will do the same thing. It can pivot independently of the bait off the split rings and not impede the rolling/flashing action we're all looking for.

Just my $0.02.

[dragon1]

This is a pretty nerdy disagreement but...imo any weight glued directly to the bait will deaden the action much more than weight that hangs off the hook hangers.

The more weight glued to the bait, the more mass it has to overcome to roll, vs anything off the hook hangers that can pivot with the split rings. Just the way I see the physics of this thing.

I use these crankbait figure 8 clips, but adding weight directly to the hooks will do the same thing. It can pivot independently of the bait off the split rings and not impede the rolling/flashing action we're all looking for.

Just my $0.02.

Good thoughts, thanks for sharing. BTW,how do those single octopus style hooks work in replacement of trebles, in so far as hook up ratio and landing percentage?

[DrewFlu33]

This is a pretty nerdy disagreement but...imo any weight glued directly to the bait will deaden the action much more than weight that hangs off the hook hangers.

The more weight glued to the bait, the more mass it has to overcome to roll, vs anything off the hook hangers that can pivot with the split rings. Just the way I see the physics of this thing.

I use these crankbait figure 8 clips, but adding weight directly to the hooks will do the same thing. It can pivot independently of the bait off the split rings and not impede the rolling/flashing action we're all looking for.

Just my $0.02.

[image clipped to avoid loading up everyone's screens]

I really like the idea. As for how the different weights make a bait react, I suppose I don't know the physics behind it well enough to argue with your point. I just know that when I've tried adding weight to the hooks themselves, the bait doesn't want to kick out nearly as well. I've figured it's because it has a counter-weight hanging below the bait basically buffering the bait's "will" to change directions. In my mind it's very similar to how adding feathers to the trebles on a walking bait, particularly the front or middle hook, can make the bait not want to walk as well.

Maybe it's differences in what we're looking for a bait to do? I'm not terribly concerned with body roll, at least not nearly as much as I am with it suspending properly and kicking out erratically. The SuspenStrips keep that action for me.

That said, I do think your idea probably works well too as the weight isn't as far down off the body of the bait as it is when adding weight to the hook shank. The main concern I'd have with that setup is that it would make the hooks more likely to bind up and result in some lost fish, though maybe that's not valid.

[reason162]

Good thoughts, thanks for sharing. BTW,how do those single octopus style hooks work in replacement of trebles, in so far as hook up ratio and landing percentage?

I hook pretty much every fish that hits my JB, but then again I'm only throwing the JB when the JB bite is on, ie I don't encounter too many fish that just slap at it. In theory the hookup % with single hooks (these are Owner Single Replacement hooks, the best ones imo) should be lower, but I haven't experienced that.

My landing % is extremely high, but that's small surprise considering the larger hook gap with singles vs trebles.

Since I swapped to singles I've done considerably less damage to the fish, and myself :)

[reason162]

I really like the idea. As for how the different weights make a bait react, I suppose I don't know the physics behind it well enough to argue with your point. I just know that when I've tried adding weight to the hooks themselves, the bait doesn't want to kick out nearly as well. I've figured it's because it has a counter-weight hanging below the bait basically buffering the bait's "will" to change directions. In my mind it's very similar to how adding feathers to the trebles on a walking bait, particularly the front or middle hook, can make the bait not want to walk as well.

Maybe it's differences in what we're looking for a bait to do? I'm not terribly concerned with body roll, at least not nearly as much as I am with it suspending properly and kicking out erratically. The SuspenStrips keep that action for me.

That said, I do think your idea probably works well too as the weight isn't as far down off the body of the bait as it is when adding weight to the hook shank. The main concern I'd have with that setup is that it would make the hooks more likely to bind up and result in some lost fish, though maybe that's not valid.

Yeah I think what you're seeing is the increased surface area creating drag, which isn't really an issue with these tiny clips. But yes - I definitely want my bait to roll and flash and throw as much light as possible down towards the bottom. I'm not only fishing for LM and SM, but in saltwater for flounder as well...and those fish are always on the bottom looking up!

[DrewFlu33]

I bet the little clips flickering around add to the flash you get, too! Nice photo!

[dragon1]

Good stuff, Mango! Thanks for sharing!

[reason162]

Good stuff, Mango! Thanks for sharing!

Btw to your original question - the shallowest diving suspending JB I know of is the Lucky Craft Flash Minnow. I think they discontinued the 95 sizes but the 110s are widely avail, though mostly in "saltwater" colors.

[dragon1]

Btw to your original question - the shallowest diving suspending JB I know of is the Lucky Craft Flash Minnow. I think they discontinued the 95 sizes but the 110s are widely avail, though mostly in "saltwater" colors.

I appreciate the feedback...I will also be toying with adding a bit of centered weight to the OG floating Rapalas.