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  1. #1
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    Any tips on removing and replacing the spindle sleeve on Vault hubs?

    I’m getting ready to rebuild my Vault hub that has been leaking. I received the the warranty parts from Dexter, new cap, grease seal,grease, o rings, loctite, pvc adapter to put cap on, zerk fitting but they did not send a new sleeve. I ordered everything I needed a couple weeks ago so I do have a new sleeve. After I ordered all the rebuild parts I decided to put in a warranty claim that they honored. Any tips on removing and replacing the sleeve? This axle has brakes also. Thanks

  2. Member fishnfireman's Avatar
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    #2
    If heat wont do it. A Dremel tool with a cut off wheel (carefully)

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    #3
    Quote Originally Posted by fishnfireman View Post
    If heat wont do it. A Dremel tool with a cut off wheel (carefully)
    Is it always necessary to replace the spindle sleeve? I have read a couple articles that says you don’t always have to replace the sleeves. Is that the reason when you order a Vault hub rebuild kit it does not come with a new sleeve? When I talked to a gentleman from Dexter warranty he went over the procedure of rebuilding the hub and he did not mention replacing the spindle sleeve and he seemed to be pretty knowledgeable. This hub has been leaking for a while and I have already repacked the hub once and it has lasted over 3 months with a lot of miles but I need to do it right and replace the seal. Thanks

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    #4
    I tried doing it without doing the sleeves and had to tear it apart again because seals still leaked.I dont have a dremel but bought small dremel cutting wheels and used them in a cordless drill.Had to heat up sleeve to get it on.

  5. Member fishnfireman's Avatar
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    #5
    Quote Originally Posted by Erie660 View Post
    Is it always necessary to replace the spindle sleeve? I have read a couple articles that says you don’t always have to replace the sleeves. Is that the reason when you order a Vault hub rebuild kit it does not come with a new sleeve? When I talked to a gentleman from Dexter warranty he went over the procedure of rebuilding the hub and he did not mention replacing the spindle sleeve and he seemed to be pretty knowledgeable. This hub has been leaking for a while and I have already repacked the hub once and it has lasted over 3 months with a lot of miles but I need to do it right and replace the seal. Thanks
    If I can't see or feel any groves or bad spots in the sleeve I leave it alone.
    IMO--- seating the new seal correctly is imperative to it's longevity.. If not seated the same depth all the way around it's going to have premature wear.

  6. Member Bob G.'s Avatar
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    #6
    I replace the wear ring if I can feel the grooves with a fingernail, but I'm using grease and not oil. I use a Dremel tool to make a very slight cut on the SS wear ring and use a screwdriver and pliers to get it off. I install the new one with a pipe, coupling, cap and an old inner bearing cage to seat the new one. I put Permatex red high temp RTV on the spindle before seating the SS wear ring. I know the pipe I use is overkill but I can smack it on in one shot. I think the pipe components are 1 1/2".

    One day I'll see if there are PVC pieces that will work with the bearing cage and try it.

    Last edited by Bob G.; 09-08-2021 at 10:38 AM.
    2006 Triton TR-21 XD, Mercury 225 Pro XS, S/N 1B287870

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    #7
    Quote Originally Posted by fishnfireman View Post
    If I can't see or feel any groves or bad spots in the sleeve I leave it alone.
    IMO--- seating the new seal correctly is imperative to it's longevity.. If not seated the same depth all the way around it's going to have premature wear.
    Thanks everyone for the tips. I just spoke with Dexter warranty again and the gentleman said that I shouldn’t have to replace the sleeve. He also said they are pressed on at the plant and your average person is not set up to do it correctly. He also stated to clean old grease off everything, including bearings, and reinstall dry and once put back together apply the vault grease through the zerk fitting. I’m used to hand packing bearings so this procedure is kinda uncomfortable but he says you shouldn’t mix the old grease with the new, that’s the reason to clean all old grease.

  8. Banned
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    #8
    I just rebuilt mine last weekend. I did not replace the wear ring. If it is not worn down to the point that you can feel it then it's good. I also pre-packed the new bearings. Force of habit and won't cause any issues.

    One thing I can say is that make sure you spin the hub while pumping the new grease in. This will ensure that it gets evenly distributed from rear to front. Once it starts coming out of the front bearing stop pumping. Then fill the cap up to the retaining ring inside before installing.

    I also used high temp RTV on the outside of the rear seal before pressing it in to the hub. I also used RTV on the outside of the cap before beating that on. Some say use loctite. Honestly, I don't see how either are going to make a damn bit of difference considering the amount of force that was required to pound that cap on. It's not going anywhere without considerable force applied to it.

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    #9
    Quote Originally Posted by Riccochet View Post
    I just rebuilt mine last weekend. I did not replace the wear ring. If it is not worn down to the point that you can feel it then it's good. I also pre-packed the new bearings. Force of habit and won't cause any issues.

    One thing I can say is that make sure you spin the hub while pumping the new grease in. This will ensure that it gets evenly distributed from rear to front. Once it starts coming out of the front bearing stop pumping. Then fill the cap up to the retaining ring inside before installing.

    I also used high temp RTV on the outside of the rear seal before pressing it in to the hub. I also used RTV on the outside of the cap before beating that on. Some say use loctite. Honestly, I don't see how either are going to make a damn bit of difference considering the amount of force that was required to pound that cap on. It's not going anywhere without considerable force applied to it.
    Did you put grease on the spindle before putting the hub back on? I know how tight those caps go on, not sure how they would ever come off.

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    #10
    Quote Originally Posted by Erie660 View Post
    Did you put grease on the spindle before putting the hub back on? I know how tight those caps go on, not sure how they would ever come off.
    Yeah. Here's my thread with pictures.

    http://www.bbcboards.net/showthread.php?t=1144121

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    #11
    Riccochet, thank you so much for the info! I just noticed that I blew a seal and was searching for a rebuild kit and you saved me a lot of headaches. FYI, the pics aren't showing in your thread.

    Also, about how long did it take to get your order from Eastern? I have to boat for a high school tournament next weekend, so I am hoping to get these before then. I did the express shipping.
    2016 Ranger RT188, Yamaha 115 sho, dual console, 80# Ultrex, hotfoot, networked HB Solix 10 & Helix 9, Mega 360. Powertech NRS3 18p, Atlas 4" jack plate.

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    #12
    Quote Originally Posted by Pagregss View Post
    Riccochet, thank you so much for the info! I just noticed that I blew a seal and was searching for a rebuild kit and you saved me a lot of headaches. FYI, the pics aren't showing in your thread.

    Also, about how long did it take to get your order from Eastern? I have to boat for a high school tournament next weekend, so I am hoping to get these before then. I did the express shipping.
    I also paid for the faster shipping. Took like 3 days. I ordered on Monday, had the parts on Thursday.

    I'll see if I can get the pics working. Odd since they show for me.