Need opinion on SHO 250 making oil

[ChooChooSnakeMan]

Hi Everyone, I know the SHO engines making oil has been beat to death so I'll be quick. My 250 SHO has 300 total hours with about 100 since the powerhead was replaced. I have been so busy with work, family, and getting over Covid that I've only put about 10 hours on it this season so far. I checked the oil level yesterday and it is about 3/4" over the top hole on the dipstick. Does anyone know how much fuel this distance above the top hole represents? Is it a little and won't hurt the lubricating qualities of the oil (Yamaha synthetic) or is it a factor and I should just drain and change the oil now. I plan to change oil and filters like always at the end of the season (late November for me) and I'll only put another 4 hours if that on the engine before I do change the oil. I don't make long runs although if being 3/4" high won't hurt the engine I might try to make an extended high speed run on my next outing to try to burn the fuel in the oil off. What do you SHO gurus think? Thanks for your help.

[bgibson]

Most likely about 1/3 to a half quart high. I would just suck some out to get oil reading back between the marks. Been there done that without issue.

[nightbasser]

yamaha made a drastic mistake using coated cylinder bores on these motors instead of an iron bore IMO

[Hollada]

yamaha made a drastic mistake using coated cylinder bores on these motors instead of an iron bore IMO

Yep.

[yam911]

Does make me wonder. If the flame sprayed cylinder liners are so great why are they not being used on all new models? Some have it, some don't.

[javelin90]

I would guess the coating used on these motors geared towards bass boat industry\high performance to help reduce friction from heat and also help with dissipating heat from run and gun from wot. I would love to know weights of the replacement sho 250 powerheads versus original aluminum blocks. I would guess the earlier sho power heads were thinner near cylinder walls of the block. Just my guess.

[yam911]

Other Yamaha models and also other brands of motors also suffer from the making oil phenomenon. It is not just the SHO models with their flame sprayed cylinder walls.

The Offshore 4.2 liter models and the XF375/XF425 models also use flame sprayed cylinder liners. Different usage patterns for the most part when compared to the SHO. Seems they do not suffer from the making oil syndrome that the SHO's do.

[ChooChooSnakeMan]

Most likely about 1/3 to a half quart high. I would just suck some out to get oil reading back between the marks. Been there done that without issue.

Thanks for your reply. I was hoping that 3/4" high on the stick didn't represent much fuel in the oil. I've read where people have said their level was 4 or 5" high. I'll take your advice and suck some of the oil out and I might even get a couple of quarts out and then put enough fresh oil in to bring the level up to between the holes on the dip stick. Thanks again!

[hillbill]

Yamaha did the plasma liners to reduce weight mainly, back when it was introduced and still today at 505 lbs it's one of the lightest out there, how much weight would cast iorn liners have added? not a lot but in this game a few lbs is a big deal.
take it out after reducing the oil level and run it to watts Bar dam at 6000 RPMs, set it down and fish for a bit and run it back the same way, I would bet it will quit making oil after that.

In my research of the SHO engines ALL run the same Plasma liner block, the only difference between the older models and newer is the bottom bearing that was updated. I have heard this from guys that work on them for a living, also talked to the Yamaha guys in the trailer at one of the tournamants and they said the same, they should know.

Lots of information on the making oil issue including on this forum, the general conclusion is run it hard and get the rings seated properly, after that you will be good.
My 2010 after the block change made oil after break in UNTIL I did exactly what is described above after taking advice from several on this forum, after that it was good.
My new to me 2016 dosen't make any as far as I can tell so far, (84 hrs when purchased, 105 now) I plan to do an oil change this weekend and will see what happens after that.
I have a friend that says his always made oil until it blew with over 600 hours, I know others that have well over 1000 hours on theirs with no issues at all.

[Ranger519VS]

My 2010 doesn't make any oil and hasn't since I bought the boat with it on 6 years ago. Don't have any real idea how it was broken in. It runs like the proverbial raped ape. 750 hours.

[Hollada]

A stuck t-stat can also cause these to make oil. Motor doesn’t get hit enough, often enough.

[smallykiller]

220hrs no issues. Perfect motor. Never made oil.

[Wackyjig]

yamaha made a drastic mistake using coated cylinder bores on these motors instead of an iron bore IMO

Their mistake isn't in the costing, it's in their break in procedure. You've got get the cylinders hot and make some power to seat the rings.
Spending 3 hours under 3k rpm does nothing but glaze the cylinders. Once they're glazed its 10x harder to get them to seat.

To the op, you can either suck out a little oil or run it as is, you'll be fine either way. You're going to evaporate the fuel out of the oil anyway. If you want to go ahead and change the oil now that's fine also, but use dino oil this time.
If you're not right at 6k or higher at wot, remove gear from the boat or possibly borrow a smaller pitch prop.
Get out during the week, a Sunday evening, or whenever it's calmest on the water. Lay the hammer down and hold it there for a minimum of 20 minutes. More would be better but wot driving for an hour isn't always realistic.
Shut it down, fish for 10 min, then hammer back down for another run. Do this at least 3 times, 4 or 5 is better. After that you should be seated or dang close. The next trip out I'd probably unload it off the trailer, make a wot run first thing, then resume normal use. Hitting wot each time you're out for at least 5 minutes is a good idea also.

[nightbasser]

Their mistake isn't in the costing, it's in their break in procedure. You've got get the cylinders hot and make some power to seat the rings.
Spending 3 hours under 3k rpm does nothing but glaze the cylinders. Once they're glazed its 10x harder to get them to seat.

To the op, you can either suck out a little oil or run it as is, you'll be fine either way. You're going to evaporate the fuel out of the oil anyway. If you want to go ahead and change the oil now that's fine also, but use dino oil this time.
If you're not right at 6k or higher at wot, remove gear from the boat or possibly borrow a smaller pitch prop.
Get out during the week, a Sunday evening, or whenever it's calmest on the water. Lay the hammer down and hold it there for a minimum of 20 minutes. More would be better but wot driving for an hour isn't always realistic.
Shut it down, fish for 10 min, then hammer back down for another run. Do this at least 3 times, 4 or 5 is better. After that you should be seated or dang close. The next trip out I'd probably unload it off the trailer, make a wot run first thing, then resume normal use. Hitting wot each time you're out for at least 5 minutes is a good idea also.

i've personally broke in over 100 Sho motors...At least the first 2 hours...I think we may have been the among first to discover getting them hot under load would help seat the rings. however iron bores are much more forgiving and the process is much easier. I've already seen several merc v8 proxs with over 1000 hours already . Ive yet to see a SHO make 700 hours in a bassboat application

[bgibson]

[QUOTE=nightbasser;12071862]i've personally broke in over 100 Sho motors...At least the first 2 hours...I think we may have been the among first to discover getting them hot under load would help seat the rings. however iron bores are much more forgiving and the process is much easier. I've already seen several merc v8 proxs with over 1000 hours already . Ive yet to see a SHO make 700 hours in a bassboat application[/QUOTE

That is some serious knowledge!!

[Shane s]

Why are they not lasting more than 700 hrs?

[Shane s]

i've personally broke in over 100 Sho motors...At least the first 2 hours...I think we may have been the among first to discover getting them hot under load would help seat the rings. however iron bores are much more forgiving and the process is much easier. I've already seen several merc v8 proxs with over 1000 hours already . Ive yet to see a SHO make 700 hours in a bassboat application

Why are they not lasting more than 700hrs?

[Stratos21XL]

Hi Everyone, I know the SHO engines making oil has been beat to death so I'll be quick. My 250 SHO has 300 total hours with about 100 since the powerhead was replaced. I have been so busy with work, family, and getting over Covid that I've only put about 10 hours on it this season so far. I checked the oil level yesterday and it is about 3/4" over the top hole on the dipstick. Does anyone know how much fuel this distance above the top hole represents? Is it a little and won't hurt the lubricating qualities of the oil (Yamaha synthetic) or is it a factor and I should just drain and change the oil now. I plan to change oil and filters like always at the end of the season (late November for me) and I'll only put another 4 hours if that on the engine before I do change the oil. I don't make long runs although if being 3/4" high won't hurt the engine I might try to make an extended high speed run on my next outing to try to burn the fuel in the oil off. What do you SHO gurus think? Thanks for your help.

I am on my 2nd boat with a SHO, both broken in the same way. First 5 hours I did by the book, from 5-10 hours I put in at the Riverpark and went all the way to the Nickajack/Guntersville Dam keeping it in the upper RMP range in 5 minute intervals most of the time. Stopped about half way down, let the motor sit and completely cool down then finished the trip down to the Dam. Did the exact same thing coming back up the river. Went home and changed the oil and filter and never made a drop of oil in either motor after that. Motor HAS to get hot and be under a substantial load to get the rings to seat properly.

[CJ1]

i've personally broke in over 100 Sho motors...At least the first 2 hours...I think we may have been the among first to discover getting them hot under load would help seat the rings. however iron bores are much more forgiving and the process is much easier. I've already seen several merc v8 proxs with over 1000 hours already . Ive yet to see a SHO make 700 hours in a bassboat application

Excellent Info based on experience and not guessing! On the v8's are they on bassboats? That to me is good info and I bet they have a hotter thermostat? Maybe in the 180 range? I don't know as I have not worked on one yet. CJ

[nightbasser]

Why are they not lasting more than 700hrs?

Alot of the earlier ones failed due to the thrust bearing. My guess and its truly a guess but an educated one at that is the fuel dilution of the oil plays a role...