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  1. #1
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    HELP: Dual Humminbird Helix draining cranking battery: very detailed post

    BOAT: 2020 TRACKER 175 TXW TOURNAMENT EDITION (60 HP Mercury)

    Issue:

    My cranking battery has died twice out on the water and had to use trolling motor to get back. My two fish finders are labeled below with the manufacturer’s specifications on power draw etc. These two helix units are run DIRECTLY to the cranking battery. The boat is always plugged into for charging (through the onboard charger) as I store this boat in a garage. Prior to taking the boat out to use, I always check the onboard charger to deem that every battery bank shows a “solid green”/or full charge. Out on the water I typically hit “standby” on the console fish finder when I am fishing from the bow and utilize the bow fish finder at a brightness level varying from 6-10 (10 being the brightest). When I go back to the console to move locations I hit “standby” on the bow fish finder, then reactivate my console fish finder. The last time my cranking battery “died” I was on the water for 4 hours and did utilize the live well on the “timer” aspect (1 minute on/3 minutes off) typically for 2 cycles, then ill manually shut that switch off. I do not run the live well continuous. When I cannot start the outboard motor the voltmeter gauge on the dashboard has been at approximately 12 volts and did not start, eventually turning over after sitting for 10-20 minutes. The most recent time, the outboard motor would not turn over and the voltmeter gauge on the dashboard was at approximately 10 volts and never started.

    Question: Is this cranking battery insufficient? Or is there another problem? Any recommendations?

    Presently, I find no issues/complaints with the trolling motor batteries and the specifications for these are also shown below just for reference.

    HUMMINBIRD HELIX 9 MSI G3N

    Power Draw 1 Amp
    Power Input 10.8-20 VDC
    Power Output Peak-to-Peak 8000 Watts
    Power Output RMS 1000 Watts


    HUMMINBIRD HELIX 10 MDI G4N

    Power Draw 2.7 Amps
    Power Input 10.8-20 VDC
    Power Output Peak-to-Peak 8000 Watts
    Power Output RMS 1000 Watts


    Cranking Battery (13.20 on battery test multimeter)


    BRAND: https://www.interstatebatteries.com/...ategoryid=true

    Manufacturer’s Specifications:
    · Part Number 24M-RD
    · Group Size 24M
    · Cold Cranking Amps (CCA) 400
    · Cranking Amps (CA) 500
    · Reserve Capacity (RC) 75 minutes
    · Amp Hours (Ah) N/A
    · Length 11 inches

    · Width: 6 7/8 inches
    · Height: 9 inches
    · Termination Code: Common Code M
    · Voltage: 12
    · Wet/Dry: W
    · Technology: Flooded



    BRAND: https://www.interstatebatteries.com/products/srm-27#

    Trolling Battery 1 (12.95 battery test on multimeter)

    Trolling Battery 2 (13.30 battery test on multimeter)

    Manufacturer’s Specifications:
    · Part Number SRM-27
    · Group Size 27DC
    · Cold Cranking Amps (CCA) 600
    · Cranking Amps (CA) 750
    · Reserve Capacity (RC) 160 minutes
    · Amp Hours (Ah) 88
    · Length 12 3/4 inches
    · Width 6 7/8 inches
    · Height 9 inches
    · Termination Code Common Code M
    · Voltage 12
    · Wet/Dry W
    · Technology Flooded

  2. Member
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    #2
    Cranking Battery (13.20 on battery test multimeter)


    BRAND: https://www.interstatebatteries.com/...ategoryid=true

    Manufacturer’s Specifications:
    · Part Number 24M-RD
    · Group Size 24M

    · Cold Cranking Amps (CCA) 400
    · Cranking Amps (CA) 500
    · Reserve Capacity (RC) 75 minutes
    · Amp Hours (Ah) N/A
    · Length 11 inches

    · Width: 6 7/8 inches
    · Height: 9 inches
    · Termination Code: Common Code M
    · Voltage: 12
    · Wet/Dry: W
    · Technology: Flooded


    Problem in bold.

    Too small, change to a group 31 size


    My 2 cents.

  3. Member
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    #3
    Crank battery is smaller than I would like, but in good condition, should still serve your needs, or at least better than it does.

    IMHO you need a new battery. Good time to upgrade to a group 27 or 31 if fits and in budget.

    Check ALL your connections. Bad connections muck up everything.

    Check to see if your motor is charging the battery while running.

  4. Member 61Woody's Avatar
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    #4
    Rewire to a dedicated battery. 50AH lithiums are pretty small in size and should run those electronics all day. I have 9 and 10 " birds also and my 50AH battery has not been below 84% after 4-5 hrs of fishing. Also lower the brightness of you screens, that will save a little juice also.
    21 Lund 1775 Impact XS 21 Merc 115 Pro XS

  5. Member 06 SB's Avatar
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    #5
    I run 2x 10" Helix, 1x 9" Helix, Ultrex Link, M360, Ethernet Hub plus bilge and livewell pumps and have no issues with a discharged battery. I run a Northstar 31AGM.

    Your battery is way too small. Get a 31AGM. I would also check to make sure your motor is charging the battery while it is running. If you have a volt gauge, monitor it after engine starts to make sure it is taking care of your battery.

    USN Retired
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  6. Electrical/Wiring/Trolling Motors Moderator CatFan's Avatar
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    #6
    Cranking battery is way too small.
    If you have integrity, nothing else matters. If you don't have integrity,
    nothing else matters.​

  7. Member Fish Whisperer's Avatar
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    #7
    Quote Originally Posted by CatFan View Post
    Cranking battery is way too small.
    X2
    Ranger Z-20, Yamaha F225.

  8. Member
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    #8
    You didnt mention which motor you run either....
    If its an optimax, i hear those are pretty power hungry during start up too....
    Yes, your 24 is WAY to small, if the battery is ANY bit worn out or not as effective as new, you are going to run dead.

    I run a helix 12 and helix 10 on their own dedicated size 31 AGM (call it overkill)
    Size 27 is cranking battery and all accessories ...... I too, do not like batteries dead on the water ;)
    Mine are overkill, BUT if i need to jump myself i should be able to.
    2010 Nitro X-5 w/ 90HP Mercury Optimax
    2020 Ultrex Ipilot Link MDI
    Helix 12 MDI G3N
    Helix 12 MSI G3N
    Mega 360

  9. Member
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    #9
    It's a 60 hp motor according to the first sentence in his post.
    make sure there are no loose connections. Have your battery load tested. Likely do need a larger battery

  10. Member
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    #10
    I'd suggest an AGM 31, an inexpensive one like the Duracell can be found at Sam's club or some at a NAPA store, although the NAPA one is not marine rated. You cannot have too much battery unless restricted by room or weight issues.
    You could also do the math and see if you're overloading that size 24, I'm too lazy to do it.
    The bottom line, you have to have what works for you. I use two modest Garmin GPS Sounders, and livewells, and never have any issues starting my 200 HP motor, using the Duracell 31 AGM.

  11. Member
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    #11
    Your battery is way too small. RC is not enough. Although your Merc only requires 350 ccas in temps above 32 degrees, you need more RC to run your accessories. If you do not fish in sub zero temps in the fall or winter, an inexpensive 31 wet deep cycle battery would work. Of course, a 31 AGM would be the best solution and you would be fine in the cold. That reasonably priced Sam's Duracell 31 AGM that Bill mentioned would be a great choice for you, and, is available at other retailers (Batteries Plus, O'Reilly's) with a different label if you are not a Sam's member.
    2019 BCB Classic
    Merc V8 200 4S

  12. Member
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    #12
    You need a starting battery with upwards of 200 RC to last all day running decent size graphs

  13. Member
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    #13
    Thank you all for your help. Greatly appreciated.

    I’ll be looking at a larger battery. Do you guys use lithium?

  14. Member
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    #14
    Can anyone post up some recommendations on brand? Do I need a “deep cycle”? And what about lithium?

  15. #15
    Preluda97 if you are like the majority of us were spending 1000 on lithium is too much buy a Walmart group 29, it is a beast, we use it and have2 Garmin 9" Echomaps, live well pumps on, Garmins are on all the time and F115Yamaha and never come close to losing power at $90, a bargain.

  16. Member
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    #16
    I use interstate and take the boat to their store and have them test and do maintenance on all my interstate batteries. They clean, check water, test and replace if needed for free. You pay the percentage left on the warranty.

  17. Member
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    #17
    I bought a Deka Intimadator agm this past time and it’s been solid. Other than weighing 70 couple pounds it’s great. I will probably eventually go with ionic lithium’s when I need the next set

  18. Member haus9393's Avatar
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    #18
    Quote Originally Posted by Preluda97 View Post
    Can anyone post up some recommendations on brand? Do I need a “deep cycle”? And what about lithium?
    The brand doesn’t even matter. I’ve seen all the “best” agm on the market fail. Duracell interstate X2 power. All of them they fail. Pick whatever brand has the best warranty and IMO that’s duracell and sams club. Don’t go spending $400 on an agm. If you are going to drop $400 on an agm go right to lithium. Lithium is far superior and it’s 100% the future for boats and everyone that swaps loves them. But I’m gonna say you absolutely do not need a lithium for your boat. Your power draw is too low. Now if you had 4 or 5 of these units I would 100% suggest lithium as your #1 option but in reality with about a 4amp max load you can get any group 31 100ah agm and be fine for a solid 16 hours on the water.

    im also going to suggest you verify your alternator is working on your motor. I know that when an alternator goes bad it kills your battery so fast. And the fact you are killing a group 24 in just 4 hours seems alittle odd to me. I mean it’s a tiny battery but still I would think it would last atleast 8-10 hours with that setup of electronics.

    2023 Ford F150 XLT Super Crew 2.7L Ecoboost FX4
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    HDS16 Pro- Solix15 : Console
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    Dual 10' Blades/ Lowrance Ghost/ Bobs Hydraulic Plate
    225ah cranking / 100ah trolling. Ionic/Relion lithium

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  19. Member
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    #19
    how do I test the alternator?

    Quote Originally Posted by haus9393 View Post
    The brand doesn’t even matter. I’ve seen all the “best” agm on the market fail. Duracell interstate X2 power. All of them they fail. Pick whatever brand has the best warranty and IMO that’s duracell and sams club. Don’t go spending $400 on an agm. If you are going to drop $400 on an agm go right to lithium. Lithium is far superior and it’s 100% the future for boats and everyone that swaps loves them. But I’m gonna say you absolutely do not need a lithium for your boat. Your power draw is too low. Now if you had 4 or 5 of these units I would 100% suggest lithium as your #1 option but in reality with about a 4amp max load you can get any group 31 100ah agm and be fine for a solid 16 hours on the water.

    im also going to suggest you verify your alternator is working on your motor. I know that when an alternator goes bad it kills your battery so fast. And the fact you are killing a group 24 in just 4 hours seems alittle odd to me. I mean it’s a tiny battery but still I would think it would last atleast 8-10 hours with that setup of electronics.

  20. Member
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    #20

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