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  1. #1
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    Lower unit swap question

    I have a 1999 200 Ficht Model# E200FPLEEN that has a bad ECM. I am running a 2009 200HO Model #E200HSLSEA. The 2009 has problems overheating in the summer with water temps over about 85 degrees. I would like to put the 1999 lower unit on the 2009 because it has the large water pickup holes. Would I need to change anything other than the water pump housing to do this?

    2009 1999

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    Last edited by charg295; 07-29-2021 at 10:35 AM.

  2. SC Club Moderator ChampioNman's Avatar
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    #2
    I think it would be a bunch easier if you swapped out the intake screens on the ETEC lower to the higher flow pickups.

  3. Member
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    #3
    I have the high flow intake screens and tried them and I did gain water pressure but at higher speeds (45mph and above)the prop will lose bite and the back of the boat will jerk sideways.

  4. SC Club Moderator ChampioNman's Avatar
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    #4
    OK do what you need to do. Make sure the drive shaft and shift rod will work with out swapping. I forgot there are experts here. I wish I was one of them.

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    #5
    If your insinuating that I'm an expert your dead wrong. That's why I'm here asking questions. My motor does great until the water gets hot then I can't run over 3,500-4,000 rpm without it over heating. My water pressure drops from 18-20 psi WOT in the winter to 15-16 WOT in the heat of the summer. I saw post were you recommended the large pickups so I got some. They did increase the water pressure but made the boat dangerous to drive at higher speeds which I need to run to get back to weigh ins after an all night tournament. I lowered my motor as far as I can to try to get the pickups in clean water but it hasn't helped. My Ficht didn't have any problems staying cool was why I was thinking swap lower units would solve my problem. I figured the reason Evinrude came out with the lower unit with the holes in the nose was to solve this problem also.

  6. Member
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    #6
    I just checked. I have the high flow screens on it now. The ultra high flow plus screens are the ones that make the boat dangerous to drive at high speeds. I'll get some ultra high flow and try them.

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    Last edited by charg295; 07-30-2021 at 08:50 AM.

  7. SC Club Moderator ChampioNman's Avatar
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    #7
    You'll have to swap shift rods but drive shafts are OK. You'll probably take a performance hit due to the hydrodynamics.

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    #8
    If he is having cooling issues at higher RPM's, wouldn't checking the pressure relief valve be on the list of things to check? Just a thought, I didn't mean to jump the thread!!!

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    #9
    I rebuilt the pressure relief valve last summer trying to solve this problem. I installed a new diaphram, plunger and lighter spring. I took it apart a few days ago to see if it was dirty and it wasn't. Last summer I also changed thermostats and put two different water pump kits in it thinking I might have done something wrong. As soon as water temps get lower than around 80 degrees the overheat goes away. water temp now is right around 90 degrees.

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    #10
    What would happen if I gutted or did away with pressure relief valve?

  11. Sprint Boats Moderator Bassmeister's Avatar
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    #11
    Engine would run too cool at idle....

  12. SC Club Moderator ChampioNman's Avatar
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    #12
    I don't get how changing the water intakes makes the boat dangerous to drive.

  13. Member
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    #13
    This was posted on another forum and is exactly what my boat does.

    The ultra high and Ultra plus screens are not recommended for fast boats such as flats or bass rigs. They protrude out the side of the gearcase and can disrupt the water flow to the prop sometimes causing it to "unload" which could be dangerous as the boat swings to the side violently.