Help: 2010 200hp Pro XS

[btribby]

Engine would not run AT ALL with 5 psi of fuel pressure. That test was not done properly, it's a pity that you replaced fuel pumps for that. Hopefully they were OEM Mercury/Quicksilver components.

Is the engine running poorly when you try to accelerate, or when NO THROTTLE IS APPLIED? Keep in mind- you should never apply throttle when the engine is in neutral.

Living in Wyoming Im not surprised the fuel pressure test was done poorly. In fact, after replacing pumps Im wondering if it was done at all. It only runs poorly in neutral. Once I put it in forward or reverse and put the throttle down (only to get 600 rpms) it runs smoothly.

[btribby]

The hard start would have me checking the compressor.

It starts just fine. When its idling in neutral is when it runs rough.

[EuropeanAM]

Check Reeds, and properly perform the air/fuel pressure tests (record results for idle, under acceleration, and 5/10/15 seconds after engine shutdown). Those results may help in determining the source of the poor idle.

[Boatseller]

Just an FYI on an experience with my Bass Cat. I had a similar experience when I switched to a 2014-200 Pro XS. I changed the gas line from fuel selector to engine with no help. I switched to new in tank pick ups and new gas line for tank to fuel selector and problem solved. Good luck

[06 SB]

The second issue are hard starts. Which I've experienced in hot weather before. But, these kept on getting worse throughout the week but were more prevalent later in the day, each and every day. The final day the hard starts began from the beginning. I would keep the key turned and it would wind probably eight to ten times before firing up. Sometimes it took two or three of these eight to ten winds to get the engine turned over. I would engage the gears and proceed to warm the engine up at basically idling speed until the thermostats kicked in. Then hammer down. It was really bogging down, like it wasn't getting fuel then suddenly I could hear/feel it be back to normal and off I went. The last day of the trip, these problems were more and more prevalent until the motor wouldn't start. I primed the bulb and it would start, then immediately die. That was happening over and over. I engaged the "choke" and had the throttle engaged and it started right up. Put it back to neutral and into forward and again it was bogged down, like it might die and then return to a normal feel/sound and off I went.

40 hours ago, I replaced the spark plugs and main fuel filter. My first guess is this is an air/fuel filter issue. But, any ideas and thoughts on where to start would be much appreciated. Thank you.

Serial Number: 1B801620

It starts just fine. When its idling in neutral is when it runs rough.

I will bow out but the original post and the quote from above contradict each other...

[btribby]

Just an FYI on an experience with my Bass Cat. I had a similar experience when I switched to a 2014-200 Pro XS. I changed the gas line from fuel selector to engine with no help. I switched to new in tank pick ups and new gas line for tank to fuel selector and problem solved. Good luck

Yes, good point! Hard starts were a problem at the beginning of this. With the parts I have replaced, hard starts have gone away. And now Im where Im at. I do not have the tools or knowledge to proceed on my own. I have made an appointment to haul it eight hours to have it (hopefully) fixed. Hopefully Wyoming winter conditions dont make it a pain to get it where it needs to go.

[JOE54]

bring it to me ill fix it i need to go mule deer hunting , well swap sounds like you still have either fuel or air psi problem

[btribby]

bring it to me ill fix it i need to go mule deer hunting , well swap sounds like you still have either fuel or air psi problem

We’ve got a few mule deer around here. ��

[apdriver]

Dang. I thought 8 hrs was a haul. Cody to Longview….20hrs47Min…. Better pack a sack lunch

[JOE54]

We’ve got a few mule deer around here. ��

i know i been there lots of um , and we got plenti fish and lots a places to catch um

[JOE54]

Dang. I thought 8 hrs was a haul. Cody to Longview….20hrs47Min…. Better pack a sack lunch

you know itd be worth it spend a week fish every day

[SilverFox579]

If only I were 8hrs from one of these expert wrench turners...

37hrs and 2470mi one way to 17 Apopka Ave, Greenville, SC
30hrs and 2104mi one way to Longview, TX.

For those who are, it's a walk in the park for what you get in return.

[btribby]

I was able to get my boat to a Mercury Mechanic and it appears to be fixed. First thing he did was hook my motor up to the computer and there were a bunch of TPI (Throttle Position Indicator) faults. It was as easy as replacing the broken sensor. Still hardwater here in Wyoming, but I was able to hook it up to the earmuffs/garden hose and it appears to be fixed. Sitting in neutral it ran much smoother. I put it into both gears and immediately got normal RPMs. Woohoo!!!!

[EuropeanAM]

Good deal. Be very careful about accelerating (even in gear) when the boat is not in the water. With no load, it is extremely easy to cause engine damage.

[btribby]

Good deal. Be very careful about accelerating (even in gear) when the boat is not in the water. With no load, it is extremely easy to cause engine damage.

Yes sir, I would say I didnt accelerate more than one or two seconds.

[btribby]

I'm back to some of my original problems. At times the boat is hard to start and at times it starts right up. Once it starts, it is bogging down. I can feel/hear it. Once my motor has heated up and cycled I begin to give it throttle and that's when I can hear/feel it. If I give it to much throttle it immediately dies. It eventually works itself out after ~15 seconds and its ready to roll. I am pumping the priming bulb before every start. My battery is less than a year old (X2) and voltage on smartcraft as well as graphs is 12.5v-14v.

I have already replaced:

1. All fuel lines and priming bulb
2. All three fuel pumps
3. Fuel Filter
4. Spark Plugs (all properly gapped)
5. Throttle Position Indicator

All are OEM Mercury Parts.

[EuropeanAM]

Tested your belt tensioner to make sure it provides at least 70 lbs/in of spring tension, AND replaced your belt?

Both banks coming up to temp?

[btribby]

Tested your belt tensioner to make sure it provides at least 70 lbs/in of spring tension, AND replaced your belt?

Both banks coming up to temp?

I will check those things and replace the belt. How would I know if both banks are coming up to temp? I rely on my smartcraft gauge for temperature.

[Bob G.]

I will check those things and replace the belt. How would I know if both banks are coming up to temp? I rely on my smartcraft gauge for temperature.

Can use Diacom software and watch engine parameters. Easiest way is to check if both thermostats are cycling with an infrared temp gun at each thermostat housing.

I use both and watch MercMonitor too.

[EuropeanAM]

^^^^^ Good options. If using infrared temp gun, aim directly at the middle of the thermostat cover (ONLY). Don't take temp readings in other locations as they are misleading.