Crankshaft seal leak

[Bob G.]

In search of a 16mm torque adapter locally is like finding a real Bigfoot. A local automotive parts chain store shows a wrench online for $15.99 + $12.99 shipping + tax. Doesn’t show it in stock at either of the two stores that I would drive to. I went to one of them today to have it ordered to the store. Informed that I would still pay the same shipping to get it there. Did not order it.

Either way, any special tools I need I’ll need to order online.

Nice set Savage.

[DewRonInc]

Go to a mac tool truck, snap on or matco

[DewRonInc]

Or cornwell

[Redngoo]

Something i have not seen mentioned. If your not familar with using a torque wrench with a adapter. Find a good torque value calculator when using extensions. Different angles require different settings to get the actual torque value. As long as you use 0 or 90 degres the value stays the same. Though you still have to calculate based on length of torque wrench and length of adapter. These calculator are available free on the internet

[Savage]

^^True^^
I just use the torque adapter @ 90* and torque to spec....no calculations needed.

[EuropeanAM]

^^True^^
I just use the torque adapter @ 90* and torque to spec....no calculations needed.

[Bob G.]

Prepping to be able to replace the lower crankcase seal.

Sent an email this morning to Rhonda to get a lifting ring, end cap assembly, power head gasket and a couple of other things I like to keep on hand.

Going to order Oetiker clamps, crimper tool and torque adaptors today.

I’ve read several posts about removing the powerhead and saw that the adaptor plate needs to be primed and painted. Is this the sealing surface that the powerhead mates to with the powerhead gasket in between? I don’t find reference to this in my Mercury manual.

FYI, my manual has the correct powerhead bolt tightening sequence and values.

[Redngoo]

I would order those otieker clamp(best i remember they are metric in size) from Don. I bought some aftermarket and they just didnt fit right. When i removed my gasket it was already painted. Though i had one area the paint had scaled a bit. I did lightly sand. I used etching primer and mercury paint to reapply in that area. As i was advised by this forum

[Bob G.]

I’m ordering an Oetiker kit, by Oetiker that has the 25.6 and 28.6 clamps. Did you get the Mercury paint local or from Don?

[Redngoo]

I had already received my supplies from Don. Honestly i found the mercury paint from a local dealer. Only other thing i can think of, while those lower cowls are off, perfect time to pull the compressor strainer and clean it

[Bob G.]

I pulled the compressor strainer last week after seeing grass in the water pump and it had grass on it. I pulled it again today after cleaning grass from the thermostats, it was still clean. Better safe than sorry.

[Bob G.]

Is the etching primer a Mercury product?

[EuropeanAM]

No.

[Bob G.]

Mercury manual calls for Loctite 680 Retaining Compound for the powerhead studs in the event they get removed. I see it is available online but Loctite doesn’t list it on their website. Any suitable substitute?

Edit: Permatex makes a High Temp Sleeve Retainer that might be suitable.

[EuropeanAM]

Red (permanent) Liquid Loctite works quite well for this.

[Bob G.]

Red (permanent) Liquid Loctite works quite well for this.

Thanks Don. I was on the fence with ordering the Loctite 680 as I'm not sure I'll be removing the powerhead studs when scraping the gasket. Loctite 271 is always available!

FYI. I stopped at a local shop that is a Mercury dealer and picked up a can of black Mercury paint. They only had 2 cans, bought 1. I used 2 thermostat gaskets when I pulled my thermostats recently and have 2 left. Asked the guy if they had any, had my plastic wrapper with me with the part number. None in stock.

This why I buy just about everything I need that is Mercury related from European Marine. Most parts and maintenance items in stock and get them in a timely manner, great advice too!!

[Bob G.]

Started the lower crankcase seal project today. Finally have the tools, parts and accessories that I think I need. My neighbor is a automotive mechanic and loaned me his engine hoist. I have my boat backed partially in a garage so I have room for the hoist.

Removed the cowlings and lower unit last week. Disconnected the battery. Disconnected the thermostat dump hoses, tell tale hose, flush hose, strainer hose and another hose below the strainer hose that went behind the port fuel rail. Removed the 10 powerhead nuts/washers.

I have pressure on the powerhead lift ring. Is there a trick to getting the powerhead to separate from the adapter plate. It seems like the boat is lifting. If the adapter plate separates I’ll be screwed as I don’t have a gasket for that.

[Bob G.]

Bought some extra nuts for the powerhead studs and tapped around and the powerhead finally separated from the adaptor plate. The powerhead gasket separated between the powerhead and adaptor plate. Will have to scrape gasket from both.

[EuropeanAM]

Good job. Be VERY careful not to scar, scratch or gouge the surfaces. Take your time... surfaces need to be PERFECT before reassembly.

[Bob G.]

Using plastic scrapers. A lot of the gasket is stuck to the adaptor plate, it appears that there is little paint on it. Working on that before scraping the powerhead. Three local automotive stores do not carry gasket remover. Found one at a place out of town. Hoping it works.

I disconnected the shift rod when I was lifting the powerhead. The bushing is not fully seated where the rod goes down the hole. Does the bushing need to be flush? Thanks.