My tensioner is actually good. After looking at a buddies opti I installed the alternator before the tensioner which kinda threw me off track. I’ve checked the tracker valve 3 times. Any ideas on how to possible see a pinhole that I am just not seeing in it? His compressor was a little harder to turn than mine is. He has a 2006 optimax compressor is slightly different but not much.
Have you checked the Air/Fuel PRESSURES (and recorded results) at idle, under accel, and 5/10/15 seconds after shutdown?
Dual Mercury Master Technician- for Mercury Outboards, Mercruiser and Mercury Racing at European Marine in Greenville, SC.
Still consider myself a "Marine Apprentice" after 47 years (learn something new every day).
Mercury Parts, Mercury Outboards, Smartcraft & Accessories, Injector Service, TDR Reeds- BBC Sponsor
I have not. That is my next course of action. Mainly because i really don't expect to see 80 psi air. Would it be acceptable to see what the measurement is with the kill switch off and cranking it over? The reason i say that is because i just rebuilt it and i would hate for it to cold seize etc. because it is idling at 2k rpms just a little cautious, maybe too cautious.
You could see the air pressure that way... but may not even see fuel pressure (depending on which kill switch configuration your boat is using).
You could also use an external (regulated) air pressure source to pressurize the air side to 80 psi (while listening for air leaks). Watch the FUEL pressure at the same time... if it climbs more than 11 psi it's likely you have a breached diaphragm.
Dual Mercury Master Technician- for Mercury Outboards, Mercruiser and Mercury Racing at European Marine in Greenville, SC.
Still consider myself a "Marine Apprentice" after 47 years (learn something new every day).
Mercury Parts, Mercury Outboards, Smartcraft & Accessories, Injector Service, TDR Reeds- BBC Sponsor
Another question the fitting that goes onto the schrader valve is the internal valve replaceable because mine is leaking (borrowed from a mercury tech that’s retired ).
talking about for gage connection???? there are seal / orings in those
.................................................. ...the scariest thing in life is the unknown ...................................
Yea i actually have a hydraulic place in my area that can make them. They have the fittings that i need. I am assuming i could just use a schrader valve removal tool and replace the o rings and seals inside that fitting.
im talking about on ends of hoses for gages used to test psi of fuel systm not fitting in railsOriginally Posted by JOE54
.................................................. ...the scariest thing in life is the unknown ...................................
Yes that is what i am talking about. The end of the hose that screws into the fitting on the fuel rail then goes from there to a quick connect then to a gauge to read pressures. The seal has failed in that fitting.
they are avail from mercury
.................................................. ...the scariest thing in life is the unknown ...................................
Thanks Joe! i am awaiting those fittings. Man that was like a needle in a haystack trying to find those.
yes sir
.................................................. ...the scariest thing in life is the unknown ...................................
Alright I’ve got a question. I pressurized the air side of the rail to 80 psi. Hooked a separate gauge to the fuel side it never moved from zero so appears diaphragms are good. When I shut my air off it does leak down pretty fast from 80-20 then slows down a bit. The only place I feel air coming out during this process and also while pressurized is the Intake plug on the compressor. Is that normal? Should it have a path all the way back out the intake?
I’ll chime in with my experience regarding the belt tensioner. I had a recent tensioner failure on my 1999 Optimax 200 (updated thread today.) The bolt which retains the bronze center pivot bushing backed out and basically I found the tensioner components laying on top of the crankcase when I removed the cowling. I ordered a new bronze bushing but every time I torqued the 10mm retaining bolt, it locked down the pivoting tensioner arm. What I found is that the parts catalog doesn’t show it but that you must install a small thin shim or spacer between the bottom of the bronze bushing and the crankcase. The outer diameter of the spacer cannot be larger than the diameter of the bushing or the tensioner arm will bind on it. I used the thinnest 10mm lock washer I could find, applied Loctite 243 (blue) to the bolt threads, and torqued the bolt to specs. I greased the bushing with Mercury grease during installation and So far so good.
I noticed on later year models Mercury started using a 10mm stud and a locknut instead of a bolt. The tensioner arm is “sandwiched” between 2 flat washers which appears to give it more “float” than the 1999 design. Mercury also added a grease fitting to allow the arm & bushing to be lubricated without disassembly. I’m going to drill & tap the arm on my 99 200 for a grease fitting because I suspect that running dry and building up friction between the stationary bushing and pivoting tensioner arm made the bushing start rotating with the arm, and that’s what eventually caused the retaining bolt to back off.
Normally the reeds in the compressor are tight enough to prevent any substantial leak-back. You may want to investigate further (plug air inlet with your thumb and see if then HOLDS air pressure).
Weak or worn reeds in the compressor can affect it's ability to create adequate air pressure/volume.
Dual Mercury Master Technician- for Mercury Outboards, Mercruiser and Mercury Racing at European Marine in Greenville, SC.
Still consider myself a "Marine Apprentice" after 47 years (learn something new every day).
Mercury Parts, Mercury Outboards, Smartcraft & Accessories, Injector Service, TDR Reeds- BBC Sponsor
I plugged it but it still lost pressure. Not quite sure where it leaked out that time but I stopped it from leaking
through the inlet.
Spark plugs out of cylinders so you can listed at spark plug openings?
If nothing is noted there, check the air pressure DUMP hose (runs to the adapter plate) and see if air is passing through it (after pressure drops below 80 psi)
Dual Mercury Master Technician- for Mercury Outboards, Mercruiser and Mercury Racing at European Marine in Greenville, SC.
Still consider myself a "Marine Apprentice" after 47 years (learn something new every day).
Mercury Parts, Mercury Outboards, Smartcraft & Accessories, Injector Service, TDR Reeds- BBC Sponsor
So good news I believe. Idles like a champ right now on muffs. I went back through everything even went back through the idle stop screw procedure etc. (I think that or the belt being the correct tension has solved my problem) Going to lake test hopefully by Tuesday at least. I will report back with the result!
tension is critical
.................................................. ...the scariest thing in life is the unknown ...................................
Took the boat to the lake yesterday evening everything seems to be doing pretty good. Idling smooth running smooth. Following the break in procedure of course. Only thing was it is a bit slow out of the hole but i expect that to improve. It has normally came out of the hole fairly slow i wonder if i add a rubber plug or two to the prop if that will help? I ran it for probably 30 minutes or so actually fished a tournament but i will take it out again to just try to get some hours built up on it. I really appreciate all of your help on this gentlemen. This is an excellent forum i am going to keep an eye on it hopefully i can help some people out as well. In the end i think adjusting the TPS and having the correct tension solved my issues in case anyone has similar problems.
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