361V Jack Plate Yes/No?

[Bilgerat81]

I'm going through an '89 361V with a Johnson GT150. Hasn't been in the water for 7 years. Luckily, it has been stored indoors. Long story with which I will not bore you.

I have to pull the motor to replace the tilt tube and possibly the steering, so this would be the time to add a jack plate.

Anyone have any experience with adding a jack plate to a 361V? Is the transom strong enough? Is the hull conducive to taking advantage of a jack plate? What set back (6", 8", etc.)?

I plan on running a 24p Raker or Raker II (have both, and both have been restored).

Is it worth the effort and expense?

Thanks in advance.

[Finlander]

Yes, set back not important on short boat, just the vertical adjustment on the fly. 6” Atlas or Bobs but CMC is more period correct. I have had all 3 with the Atlas being the most recent but all of my 90’s era boats had a CMC hyd. Jack plate. I believe TH Marine handle them now.

BTW…The 361v still is the bomb for fishability and i just spent a day crappie fishing out of my buddies classic ride. Plenty of room for both of us on that front deck dipping shiners into trees using his 10” Garmin pan optics.

[Bilgerat81]

Thanks for the reply.

The boat does have the front deck extension, so it has plenty of storage and a fairly big front deck for a <18' boat.

[bassboat1]

I put a 6" fixed on mine two seasons ago. Decent holeshot, still RangerFast though:) No negative issues except the steering bracket will bite the transom if tilted too high.

[Finlander]

The bite issue is avoidable with hyd. vertical adjustment.

[Rudeman]

I ran a 94 with a 150 Merc XRi for 13 years. Thought about a JP but ultimately never installed one. The best modification, hands down, was hydraulic steering. I had a 25P Tempest on it and it was, at times, a fight to steer. That all went away when it was converted. Great boat and fairly fast, even with a 150HP motor. One of the best Ranger hulls ever.

But to answer your question...I never felt that a JP was necessary. Good luck with your boat and post some pics when you're done!

[Bilgerat81]

I have a 4" manual JP on its way. Cheap enough and it makes remounting the motor easier (working alone).

I'm obviously not worried about making any adjustments on the fly. Just setting the prop-to-pad height.

I should have pulled the motor a few weeks ago. It would have made redoing the battery/bilge area a lot easier...All new pumps, hoses, breakers, fiberglass repair (previous owner battery leaks), new thru-hull fittings, tidying up the wiring, etc.

[Rudeman]

I have a 4" manual JP on its way. Cheap enough and it makes remounting the motor easier (working alone).

I'm obviously not worried about making any adjustments on the fly. Just setting the prop-to-pad height.

I should have pulled the motor a few weeks ago. It would have made redoing the battery/bilge area a lot easier...All new pumps, hoses, breakers, fiberglass repair (previous owner battery leaks), new thru-hull fittings, tidying up the wiring, etc.

Since you're redoing the service area, do yourself a favor and avoid the use of silicone RTV. Use the polyurethane or polysulfide-based sealer; especially on fiberglass. They work better and are easier to work with and they actually seal well to boot.