Hello All,
Would anyone that has owned or worked on Ranger Transoms tell me what the heck is going on here.
What has caused this?
Is this a major repair?
Please see photos.
Some information
This boat has been repowered with a Yamaha 225 4 Stroke.
I'm not the original owner, i think i am the 3rd maybe 4th owner.
Single console, Bob's Machine shop hydraulic jack plate.
That’s about the worst transom damage I’ve seen. A very poor attempt at patching has been done, but obviously didn’t take. With the repowering, I wouldn’t be surprised that there was a rear-end collision involved at some point. This situation needs a complete rebuild by a repair center that knows what they are doing and, if possible, guarantees their work.
John Clark — Findlay, Ohio
I would not necessarily agree with the above assessment. I’m not sure exactly what that area is supposed to look like, but I don’t think the top cap and the transom area there are supposed to be mated together. In other words, I think that gap may be normal. It’s usually covers by a rubber trim piece. Your pics don’t show it well, but I don’t see any cracks going down the exterior glass on each side of the transom.
2022 Ranger Z520R, 2022 Mercury 250 ProXS 4s
Dual 16” Lowrance Live’s at console, 12” Live with Active Target, Garmin 8612 and Livescope, and Humminbird 12” Mega 360 at the bow
Lowrance Ghost TM
Unless the top cap has been cut off above the transom,then the top cap should be flush with the transom,no gap. The plastic cap is just cosmetic to dress off the joint there. Something has hit the transom hard enough to break the knee braces inside. That is a major problem,don’t run it like that.
Did you take the plastic cap off of this area yourself and if so, what made you do it?
2021 Ranger Z519 Mercury 225 Pro XS Four Stroke
I see cut rub rail ends…(missing) indicating a definite repair. I’d have it checked by whatever glass shop in your area does Ranger warranty work.
While it does need to be evaluated by a Ranger shop it may just be some Bubba attempt at getting the transom seal material off and not replacing the trim. I've seen a few with gaps close to that under the trim where Ranger just filled it with Uroflex.
Here is the trim repair:
http://www.bbcboards.net/showthread....ferrerid=39498
Take a close look at the second picture. There's a definite "bow" from the corner to the center of the transom outward (aft). I agree with the post above that something's awry with the knee braces. The weak point of the Ranger transom design is the mechanical connection of the pultruded transom to the knee braces. They use this method in lieu of a full width transom and glassing it all together. I'm not saying Ranger's design is a bad design, it just introduces a weak point in load transfer. Do a search on this board and you'll see other similar failures. This may have been impact related or simply the result of a lot of rough water running. Either way I'd be dragging that boat to a reputable glass repair shop and getting it checked out before running it again.Originally Posted by mikesxpress
2006 Ranger Z20 / 225HP Merc Pro XS
IMG_3248.jpgIMG_3241.jpgIMG_3245.jpgIMG_3243.jpgIMG_3272.jpgIMG_3276.jpg​
Here are a few more pictures, including a picture of the piece of plastic/fiberglass that was covering the gap.
Pull all the batteries out and get it clean inside the service well, then take to a Ranger shop so they can look at the transom support structure.
You bought it like that?
Last edited by mikesxpress; 07-15-2021 at 02:28 PM.
Why is the serial number plate inside the boat? Those are always riveted to the right rear of the boat.
3rd pic in the second set…you have got something going on..it’s pulling in the Jackplate.
That’s a good catch and an excellent question, Dean. Sharp eyes.
John Clark — Findlay, Ohio
I removed the motor and jackplate and here are a few pictures.IMG_3289.jpgIMG_3291.jpgIMG_3292.jpg
I have removed all the batteries and anything else i can. When i look at the transom from the inside there is no visible sign of repair work anywhere.
I through some clamps on thinking that maybe the exposed top of the transom was originally underneath the top cap. Not so sure. It's like someone decided to cut the last couple of inches of the top cap of the boIMG_3303.jpgat.
Looks to me like you have the following transom is bowing from age ,stress, hard water and added engine weight. Since you de rigged it I see the gap "shrink" indicated return to forum. You have "digging" at bottom of jackplate from transom not properly supported with knee braces at critical weight carrying area.
As for the metal flake "lip" it does appear to be cut short from factory ,it should have overlapped the laminate and only required a 1/8 to 3/16"" bead of adhesive
The only fix for this is to have knee braces added for proper support at the engine mounting area. I also saw a deformity along the bottom edge of the transom where the vertical meets the horizontal starboard of the jackplate indicating a weakening of that area.
Every ranger and most boats have a serial number hidden somewhere else in the boat. Incase of theft and someone cuts or grinds the serial number off the transom, this is way it be verified what the serial number is.
Shop has to make the call on what is going on there. When your ready, Ranger can still provide the plastic trim piece but they will need a picture of the one you have in addition to serial#. The factory sealing goo for that area can be purchased from the Bass Cat website. Only place I'm aware of for retail sales for it. It's super sticky and eats blue painters tape. Mask area off with foil tape used for HVAC.
https://basscatstore.com/uroflex.aspx
I have a different model Ranger., so this may not apply. My boat has (2) large gussets that tie-in the top cap, transom and floor. Has your transom separated from those (2) gussets? I am guessing so. There is no way my transom would move like that with weight on it if the gussets were still tied-in.
The top cap is not a structural member of a Rangers transom. It is just a cover. The transom is reinforced with pultruded braces that run forward from the transom. The cap is just a cap that covers it all
Butch Derickson
2011 Z521 w/250 hp SHO
Traverse City, Michigan
This is true. But,it looks to me like the gap between the transom and top cap closed up after he removed the engine,indicating some flex there. To the OP,while you have the engine off,bolt a lever,like a metal bar or 4x4 to the transom using the jackplate bolts and see if the transom has any flex. Also,it looks like the two top bolt holes have wallowed out. It just keeps getting worse.
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