1991 XR4- Fuel- Filters, water pressure, and stalling

[Gray2.4L]

Hey all, 1991 XR4 serial ODO38009. Motors been running pretty good but wanted to get everyone’s opinion on fuel/water separators on these motors. I have the regular in line fuel filter, but am trying to decide if it’s worth getting a separator as well, or a separator/filter combo. And the telltale seems to be pretty weak, especially at idle. Even at midrange rpm it’s not real strong. Don’t have pressure numbers (looking to get temp and pressure gauges) but the water pump was replaced this winter. Have heard mercs just don’t pump a lot of water out at idle/low rpms but just want to make sure it’s something normal. Finally, sometimes my motor will stall out/die between 1000-2000 or so rpms unless I put it back in neutral (doesn’t always work). If I really give into the throttle then it works fine, but with a slower acceleration of the throttle it just sputters/stalls and dies and also happens if I try to give it any throttle in reverse. Sorry if it’s too many things for 1 post and thanks for the help in advance.

[JOE54]

seperator not recomended for those engines , mtr must reach 143 for thermos to open fully , may need new pump diaphram and timming adjustments

[Gray2.4L]

Ok, I was out on the water today and it didn’t happen so it might have fixed it self, can’t tell for sure but will know better after a few more runs. I did notice that it’s not spitting out much water. I don’t have a gauge but at idle the stream seemed ok or “normal” for what it’s been running like since I got it. But at WOT or close to it it still spits like it’s idling or even less, and when I trim up it barely is even coming out, almost just spitting and not a solid stream. Had water pump and all gaskets replaced, thinking about taking the telltale hose off and blowing it out with a air compressor. It concerned me that at WOT it was barely spitting. If I had to guess probably around 5 psi or so

[JOE54]

that would be to low , need a gage , dont guess at it , remember water flow is controlled at wot by poppett also

[leonreno]

Definitely need a water pressure gauge, probably the single best item to help notice cooling problems before they become a problem. Tell tail water is from the thermostats. As joe said it is possible that the water flowing through the motor through the poppet valve at wot is cooling the thermostats down below 143 degrees and they are closing or partially closing, reducing water flow from pee stream. Especially possible when the water is colder.

[Gray2.4L]

Ok, I’m ordering one later today. I watched a video on how to install it, and their motor had a brass fitting/plug slot in the block that they just unscrewed and put the fitting for the gauge in. Looked on mine and after some research it said the older models had the slot/fitting just behind the flywheel cover, but later models have a hose already going out (which mine has) that goes to the poppet so there is no easy place to put it (unless im wrong. They said to just tap in a “T” fitting into that hose. Does that sound right? Or is there another place to put it? Thanks

[EuropeanAM]

Yes- tap into the relief hose (runs from top of block down to poppet) with a tee, as close to the top fitting as possible.

[Gray2.4L]

Ok thanks for the help, one last thing, so if water separators are not reccomended, should I just keep running the stock filter or is there a better one to use? My new prop is coming in for it tomorrow and the water pressure gauge in a few days as well so hopefully I can get it running right. Thanks

[Gray2.4L]

Also once I drill the hose and put the fitting in, should I use some waterproof seal or something like that around the edges? Or should it be smooth/tight enough that you just slip it in and it’s good to go.

[JOE54]

no drill ,use a barb type tee to connect wpsi hose , merc kits usually have this fitting supplied

[Gray2.4L]

Ok I’ll keep looking but the only ones I found are different, this one being a Merc kit (gonna try to attach photo), the others being aftermarket. There seems to only be a thicker brass “t” and not one of the barbed ones, although I could be looking at the wrong piece. I’ll see if I can attach screenshot. Just tried didn’t work but the one I’m looking at is on boats.net, titled “Gauge WTR PRS” , part number 895288A03. Here is link as well: <EDIT- Announcements>

[JOE54]

thatll work put that brass tee in hose on top of block just behind flywheel and roll on

[Gray2.4L]

I assume just drill a hole and slide it in? It goes T side in the hose right, will it be fine like that or should I also seal it off after I put it in?

[JOE54]

cut line install tee in line will not go but one way NO drilling required , install fitting for small hose that goes to gage on threaded end of tee wont go but one way, install gage run hose to back of gage

[Gray2.4L]

Ok I was gonna order but local bass pro had 1 in stock so I bought it and just finished installing. Looks right to me, taking it out either tomorrow or Sunday and will get the numbers. It was pretty simple to hook up, hardest part was running it through the hull. Had the T in the hose, attached the fitting that the hose goes in, ran it back up to the gauge and put it in that fitting, seems like it should work.

[Gray2.4L]

Also I have a quick question about running power tune through it. Would it be better to run it on muffs and do the whole procedure at the house or start it at the house and then tomorrow run it hard, OR tomorrow do the spray then let it soak on the way to the lake, then run the crap out of it. Basically either run the whole can through, let it soak, then start it again at the house, then run it hard tomorrow at the lake vs Starting the process tomorrow before lake, let it soak for an hour or so, then first start after soaking be in lake and running them both hard. I was also going to put a little quickleen in the fuel. Thoughts?

[leonreno]

Start at house, let soak then take to lake and blow it out. Might want to have extra plugs around, if you recently put in new ones and have old ones, I would put old ones in until you blow the junk out, can cowl plugs.

[Gray2.4L]

Idle psi was between 2-4, wot psi was between 12-14. WOT seemed a little low, was expecting 15+. Even with new lower pitch prop was only running 5000 rpm wot, so that could also be a factor in the lower psi.

[leonreno]

The spec is 12+ at wot so you meet that but it would probably go up a little with some more rpm.

[JOE54]

+ 1 bout 800 more