Clean Power for Graphs

[ford4wd08]

I have having some issues with my graphs that I believe are related to the stock wiring on my Triton, I have them both hooked up to the terminal boards that is controlled by the main power switch and my sonar power switch.

I would like to keep that functionality, but be able to run clean power all the way back to my starting battery (or to add another battery all together).

Would there be any issue using a relay that is triggered by my current wiring to get power to my graphs? Will relays cause any issues being inline to the power of the graphs?

That way I can keep my current setup, but have bigger gage wiring going straight back to the batteries.

[joebone1]

I put a fuse block under my console - ran dedicated 10 ga from my dedicated battery to it and then feed the network box 2 helix 10's and a helix 7 from it. So far it works great and I seem to be getting images and no shutdown on my helix 7 when I start the motor. I rigged my on/off through an accessory switch with a solenoid. the relay shouldn't cause any issues.

[krindgen]

Pretty sure you'd do better bypassing the main power switch for starters going direct to the starting battery. BassFshin250electronics has a kit, on the lower end, wire and fuse block. If you were to add up the parts individually the price is almost the same but you don't get the nice crimped terminals.

[ford4wd08]

Pretty sure you'd do better bypassing the main power switch for starters going direct to the starting battery. BassFshin250electronics has a kit, on the lower end, wire and fuse block. If you were to add up the parts individually the price is almost the same but you don't get the nice crimped terminals.

The power/ground side of the relay would go directly to the battery.

The relay is simply a switch controlled by another circuit (the one already built into the boat) the power/ground and switching circuit don't share the same circuit (or at least they won't in my wiring configuration).

I'm asking if using a relay would cause any interference because of the coils in the relay?

If a solenoid works, then a relay should be fine. It isn't like it is on the transducer cables.

[PJ-Rohlf]

Wait....so you want to use the power from the switch to control a relay, that will be acting as a switch? Excuse me if this sounds like an overcomplicated way to do things.

Run a bigger new wire from the battery to the sonar power switch, and out the switch to the fuse panel. And a bigger new ground wire back to the battery. Much simpler way to have switched power than trying to run a relay off a switch..

[krindgen]

I wouldn't want to introduce a new, potential failure point - the relay - into the scheme.

[PJ-Rohlf]

I wouldn't want to introduce a new, potential failure point - the relay - into the scheme.

That is my point.. typically a relay is used to control high voltage circuit with a low voltage input.

[ford4wd08]

Wait....so you want to use the power from the switch to control a relay, that will be acting as a switch? Excuse me if this sounds like an overcomplicated way to do things.

Run a bigger new wire from the battery to the sonar power switch, and out the switch to the fuse panel. And a bigger new ground wire back to the battery. Much simpler way to have switched power than trying to run a relay off a switch..

I don't see it as complicated at all? The sonar switch now is built into the main harness of the boat, I'm not going to try and undo all of the rigging on the boat, what a mess that would be.

I can simply run the wires that are going to the units now to a relay (they plug into a terminal board), then run two new wires to the batteries and the units.

I'll actually probably run the new power to a fuse panel, then add units from there.

Relays are basically a switch that can be triggered by a lower amperage source. Not all swithces can handle the amps needed for a device, so a relay is used as their amp ratings are much higher.

[ford4wd08]

The whole point to all of this is so that when the main power is cut to the boat, it is cut to everything, I don't have to worry about leaving stuff on.

[PJ-Rohlf]

The whole point to all of this is so that when the main power is cut to the boat, it is cut to everything, I don't have to worry about leaving stuff on.

Or you could just run the power wires you are adding through the main disconnect if that is the goal....

[ford4wd08]

Or you could just run the power wires you are adding through the main disconnect if that is the goal....

That's true too.

I might just run power to a fuse block then have room for each graph....

I'll figure something out...

[PJ-Rohlf]

Not saying what you had was a bad idea, I just think that you are going to have issues down the road, or the possibility of issues when using a relay to do what can be done with the master power switch already there.

[wmitch2]

This is what I have done

http://www.bbcboards.net/showthread....=#post11865481

[brycer]

That is my point.. typically a relay is used to control high voltage circuit with a low voltage input.

i think you mean amperage, the voltage would remain constant

[PJ-Rohlf]

i think you mean amperage, the voltage would remain constant

No I mean voltage. In my line of work of automation and machine controls relays are used so that you can power the coil with 12-24 V through a switch/sensor and it acts as a switch for something running on 480V. That's what I mean by using low voltage to control high voltage

[Wallace]

I don’t see a problem with using a relay and using the dash switch as the trigger for the relay. Playing devils advocate the only thing I could see as a problem is how much voltage drop you will have over the relay on the depth finder side of the relay. Hummingbirds don’t like voltage drop. Most guys run dedicated power from the battery to a fuseblock and run to each unit from there. Like I did for me it works however one size doesn’t fit all. If you like the way yours works run a relay just keep an eye out on voltage drop across the relay

[ford4wd08]

I'm just going to use the master power switch. I ordered a fuse block to run from it and 50 ft of 8 AWG. That should do anything I need it too.

Couldn't find a good waterproof relay that came with a pigtail that was bigger than 12 AWG, so it could have been a place for a voltage drop and didn't really want to make my own harness that wasn't waterproof and have more places for corrosion.

[Capw]

6 ga from battery to fuse box under console. 10 ga from fuse box to all units.

[Titansfan2104]

No I mean voltage. In my line of work of automation and machine controls relays are used so that you can power the coil with 12-24 V through a switch/sensor and it acts as a switch for something running on 480V. That's what I mean by using low voltage to control high voltage

Yes you can do that but the reason for it in most 12 v systems is for the amperage. For example a 300 watt lightbar on a side x side. You are consistently using 12volts throughout the system but as you said the relay reduces the need of having a large enough wire throughout the whole system. Instead of running a wire big enough to carry 30 amps i can make a short run of 10 gauge and control it with 16,18 or even smaller gauge using a relay. Its used both ways but when using it in a 12 v only application its more about wire size and amps

I was thinking of doing the same as you. I have a Garmin 1242 and livescope up front and ordered a 48ah lithium from amped outdoors. I'm thinking of using the current 14 gauge wire on my head unit to power the relay which will send power through a 10 gauge set of wires for my Livescope and 1242. That way the boat power switch still controls all that and i dont have to run wires the full length of the boat (battery will be up front with my livescope box)