2010 mustang gt has Hotrod cams, jlt series3 intake, Barton short throw shifter, and Brenspeed tuning. My issue is under acceleration I can feel the clutch pedal move towards the floor as if it looses pressure have pretty much no clutch but will quickly return after letting off the gas for a moment then act normal. I have changed the master clutch cylinder which made an improvement, there is no clutch slippage at all. Any help would be appreciated thks.
Mileage?
Had a worn shaft do this and the guy who rebuilt said the worn shaft allowed things to move inside the tranny under load and slave cylinder pressured dropped.
If you have integrity, nothing else matters. If you don't have integrity,
nothing else matters.
Worn engine/transmission mounts?
150,xxx milesOriginally Posted by CatFan
Mounts seem fine from what I can tell no excessive movement, everything feels solid.
Is it doing it at high RPM's? If so that is why they made the centerforce clutch that is weighted. A stock clutch will not even engage at high rpms leaving the line on a drag car.
Last edited by CJ1; 06-14-2021 at 09:31 AM.
2002 X19 200HP OX66 HO Vmax,HPDI lower, it lives, thanks Hydro Tec.
Keep your foot off the clutch during accelleration. Some Long style clutches had weights to increase the pressure as the revs got higher, which would pull the fingers further from the throwout bearing. I wouldn't be surprised to find out someone disagrees with me.
Just wait till your clutch pedal drops to the floor and doesnt return, and is just dangling in the air lol...........then ya climb down under your steering wheel and find the little plastic piece that connects your clutch pedal to the cylinder that it mashes against. Highly suggest you replace yours with one of the aluminum ones. Cause it will break, not a matter of if, but when. But I still love my 2007 GT. Ford wants you to buy a whole new pedal assembly and they do not sell the little part. Thank God for the aftermarket. Less than 10 bucks. Here is a link to the part Im talking about on Amazon. I got mine off of ebay. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1 How do ya like the hotrod cams? I havent done that yet, but I do have the brenspeed tune and tuner, JLT cold air, loud mouth cat back exhaust, and a gt350 throttle body. Fun cars and about the last model a backyard guy can work on lol ..........and keep a spare alternator lol they seem to eat them lol.
That looks like a nice replacement part, the best part of message boards is being able to share information like this.
Thanks, and it is a great part and upgrade from the plastic...........I highly suggest using Loctite on the allen head lol or you will be like me and be in a parking lot digging around in the floorboard for it when it backs out of the hole lolThat looks like a nice replacement part, the best part of message boards is being able to share information like this.
This has me wondering about the linkage on my 2000 Mustang. Probably the same or similar piece of plastic.
2018 Ranger RT188 SC Black/115 hp Yamaha SHO 4-stroke; Garmin LVS34 - north
2018 Ranger RT188 DC Black/115 hp Merc Pro XS 4-stroke; Garmin LVS34 - south
14' Mirrorcraft tin boat (ancient) with a 9.9 Mercury 4-stroke, no electronics; catches fish anyway
Your 2000 uses a cable clutch. In 2005 they switched to a hydraulic. So yours does have an adjustable plastic piece on the shaft connected to the pedal, but it's not the same type. What you want is a billet clutch quadrant. Also, if your stock cable is still good KEEP IT, don't get an adjustable one. All the adjustable ones last only 2-3 years. I broke 2 on my 98 in about 5 years. Found out that Maximum Motorsports is getting original cables now from the same manufacturer who originally made them for Ford. Ford now gets their "OE" cables from China too, and they are junk now.
As for the OPs problem, it could be the slave, or it could be air in the lines needs to be bled. I've seen both happen with hydraulic clutches.
2001 Champion 187 Yamaha 175
12' Talons, Lithiums and Garmins
All pulled by a Hemi
Thanks for the info, I do have the original clutch cable and only changed the clutch two years ago after 135,000 miles on it, obviously I've been pretty easy on it. One thing about a ragtop, it just seems cruel to abuse the car as much as a hatchback. If I do ever need a replacement I will contact Maximum Motorsports. I have one of their strut tower braces under the hood to keep the flexibly flyer chassis a bit less flexible.
You can try upgrading the stock plastic hose to one of the many stainless ones offered. Many also remove the clutch assist spring but this won’t help with those issue. Will help if the pedal is getting stuck down. Heat is normally the issue . It may be slipping slightly and you can’t feel it
2011 Ranger z521/2023 250ProXS
LS swap it and you'll have a really fast Mustang!
Oh no u didn't..
Release fingers on clutch are sucking in … you might even be getting slip that your not noticing … yet
You push a clutch pedal 6 inches to depress pressure plate springs 1 inch or less .. doesn’t take much spring collapse to make the pedal feel like it’s dropping a ton
Thanks for all the reply’s I was recommended a centerforce clutch by a mechanic I know “talked to him after I posted”.
I really like my hot rod cams it’s like a whole different car, pulls better all the way to the top, did install myself which was way easier then I thought. Along with the other mods I’m catless with vibrant resonators and roush off-road hi-performance exhaust, I could listen to it idle all day. I do not regret the cams at all, I’m running 3.55 gears “stock” in mine it is a little fussy on take off but nothing major..
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