I Think This Is Better Than the Aluminum Tread

[jtrac]

I saw this on the Caymas forum and gave the company a call. Found out they could do the Nitro also. It is made from SeaDek, waterproof and is over a quarter inch thick so should provide some padding in the event I get the boat on the fenders. Not sure how well it would fare but at $40 a set (plus $10 shipping) I would just get a new one. I was told the self sticking backing will hold just fine on the fenders but I will watch it. It came from Signs Designs in Lawrenceburg, TN, www.tnwraps.com. Nice folks to work with.

I had it built at 33" X 7" which I think is just about right. A little larger than the aluminum.

[madmurph]

Looks great!

[ike12]

This is great, i was just thinking when I was going to do that project, I am calling them in the AM. Thanks

[jtrac]

One other thing. I'm not sure if the carriage bolt in the middle of the fender would show thru but I did order some stainless steel elevator bolts from Amazon which have a flatter profile. The picture is with it just resting on the fender. I don't have the bolts yet so will be a few days before I actually put it on. Whoever did this with their Caymas sealed the rivet holes with some Flex Seal but I'm not sure that is necessary.

[11pounder]

That's very sharp, how slippery is it when it's wet.

[jtrac]

That's very sharp, how slippery is it when it's wet.

It's the same stuff they use in boats in lieu of carpet. It's an option on many bass boats and I think an option on some Nitro's in the cockpit area. I would assume it is not slippery but haven't tried it.

[wilk816]

One other thing. I'm not sure if the carriage bolt in the middle of the fender would show thru but I did order some stainless steel elevator bolts from Amazon which have a flatter profile. The picture is with it just resting on the fender. I don't have the bolts yet so will be a few days before I actually put it on. Whoever did this with their Caymas sealed the rivet holes with some Flex Seal but I'm not sure that is necessary.

Can you link the bolts you bought? I am going to do this same thing, looks great.

[jtrac]

QUOTE=wilk816;11924359]Can you link the bolts you bought? I am going to do this same thing, looks great.[/QUOTE]

My link didn't work. They are listed on Amazon as: 1/4-20X1 1/2 stainless steel elevator bolt square neck (1" diameter head) 18-8. They are from the FASTENERS.COM store. A pack of 10 was $12.43.

[AZcal2021]

Thanks for this

Looks good!

[Pat Dilling]

For the self sticking backing be sure to rough up the powder coat finish on the fender with some 180 or 220 grit. Not many things will stick to it as is. Experience speaking.

[ike12]

Can you post pics when done? ty

[jtrac]

Can you post pics when done? ty

I will. I have removed the aluminum tread and fender bolt and lightly sanded the finish in hopes of a better stick in preparation of getting them on today. I want to replace the carriage bolt with a flat headed stainless steel elevator bolt. I ordered a set of 5 on June 4, they were shipped the same day but I still don't have them. They were sent by USPS so who knows. I have not been able to find any locally other than just regular steel which would probably rust. Delivery date was shown as today but the mail has already run and nothing. Hopefully tomorrow.

[jtrac]

Got the bolts in today and installed the new bling. I must say you have one shot at getting it in place as whatever glue is used as a backing does make for a tight fit. I did find some rust under the aluminum plate so hopefully this will stop that issue. I sealed the bolt head with silicone and used Flex Paste on the rivet holes.

[ike12]

That looks sharp! Nice job.. I dont even see the bolt.. What kind of glue did you use and how did you get the rivets out? Just drill them out?

[jtrac]

That looks sharp! Nice job.. I dont even see the bolt.. What kind of glue did you use and how did you get the rivets out? Just drill them out?

No glue needed. Just peel and stick. I drilled the tops off the rivets and used a punch to get the bottom part out. I filled the holes with some black Flex Paste just to try and prevent rust. The material is about a quarter inch thick so I don't think replacing the carriage bolt is even necessary. I doubt it would show thru.

[ike12]

No glue needed. Just peel and stick. I drilled the tops off the rivets and used a punch to get the bottom part out. I filled the holes with some black Flex Paste just to try and prevent rust. The material is about a quarter inch thick so I don't think replacing the carriage bolt is even necessary. I doubt it would show thru.

Nice! Great Job I will be doing the same. TY for the info