Trailer Brake Question

[dabassking]

Update: I removed the actuator (UFP A60) and opened the master cylinder. It was disgusting (see pics below). It had a lot of residue in the bottom that was a weird jelly consistency. Before removal, I sucked all the brake fluid out with a syringe and it was opaque and brown which is extra weird because the fluid in it was less than 6 months old. Also I found my emergency cable to be worn through. I’ve got a new actuator on the way. I don’t think it’s out of the realm of possibility to have to replace all of the steel brake lines with rubber lines too before I get this thing 100% functional.

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[leonreno]

At the least you need to flush out the lines to make sure not gunk is in the lines and if possible flush out the calipers. Not sure how to flush a caliper but I’m sure there is a way.

[Ryno 615]

I just done this job, and finally finished it last week. I ended up having to replace my brake lines as well. Given, my trailer was a '99 model, and probably had never had the brakes looked at. Only one section of my brake lines was plugged up completely, so I just replaced it all. I started with a brand new actuator, and couldn't get anything out of the calipers, but kept building up pressure at the actuator. Honestly wasn't a terribly difficult job, but sure am glad it is over haha.

[DewRonInc]

I learned along time ago that these surge brake actuators are "consumeable" items best replaced than repaired especially after 5+ years of use. Once rust forms inside the master cylinder it's almost impossible to fully get it out. Flushing just pushes it to the calipers and now you have more issues.

Yup get new assembly, tried to rebuild mine and did, one problem led to another, said screw it and bought new Assembly. Removed calipers and installed new pads. Cleaned and greased mounting bolts so cailiper would slide correctly, now my ass can stop

[Alex from GA]

They make stainless brake lines that I think would last longer.