Sharing my boating-walk thru Tips "notes" for first timers. Jim's notes. Post 1 of

[JIMTMCDANIELS]

Hi all,

TAGS: "HOW TO BOAT LIST, FIRST TIME BOATERS, FIRST TIME CAPTAINS, HOW TO DRIVE A BOAT, HOW TO OPERATE A BOAT, BOATING WALK THROUGH, LEARN HOW TO GO BOATING, WHAT A CAPTAIN NEEDS TO KNOW, OPERATING A BOAT FOR THE FIRST TIME, BOATING WHAT YOU NEED TO KNOW."

I'd say this is for anyone looking get started at owning/operating their first boat or any Captain who wants handy notes that covers so much, can really up your knowledge game and safety.
You can change it to match your boat and situations.

With no boating experience, I bought my very first boat 4 years ago.
A 1982 Sea Sprite 16' Fiberglass tri-hull, with a 1980 2 cycle Evinrude 140, to use on my local lakes here in Colorado USA.

I can be a very organized person. Yet I found there is so SO much to know and no available brief but complete notes out there to walk though it all.
So I made my own notes, shared below.

Over the years, I've scoured the net and also bought repair manuals, educating myself, finding answers to any questions that came to my mind.
Things like what to do days/weeks before boating, how to: launching, docking, anchoring, pulling anchor, general rules, buoy meanings, terminologies, horn signals, towing, rough waves/storms procedures, end of season shut down, retrieving boat, swimming ideal water temp, where to check water temp online, what's too windy to launch, emergencies and laws etc.
Also suggested labels to add to the boat dash or other areas, common maintenance, symptoms/problems with 2 cycle engines, resources for different needs, etc

I brought it all together and compressed it into 10 notes/categories concerning the type of boating I do:

1. JUST DAY/WEEKS BEFORE BOATING TRIP CHECKLISTS
2. BOATING PROCEDURES(For Mostly Recreational Lake Boating) - so much info on how to Captain a boat!
3. RULES BUOYS-BOAT-COLORADO &. BOATING HANDBOOK
4. BOAT LABELS TO CONSIDER ADDING TO THE DASH OR OTHER APPLICABLE LOCATIONS ON THE BOAT(Engine compartment etc.)
5. BOAT THINGS TO BUY/REPAIR
6. COMMON SYMPTOMS/PROBLEMS (also see "MAINTENANCE/ADJUSTMENTS”):
7. BOAT, ENGINE & TRAILER, MAINTENANCE/ADJUSTMENTS/TUNE UP/TORQUE SPECS
8. BOATING DESTINATIONS INFO:(closest listed first)
9. BOAT DIAGRAMS & FORUMS & PARTS HELPFUL RESOURCES:
10. BOAT-ENGINE TRAILER DETAILS/SPECS & HISTORY

I keep these on my phone for easy quick access.

It's all below. Hope it helps some boaters out there.

PS I'm not a professional in any way and it may contain typos or incorrect information so do double check especially any critical info before you rely on it as accurate. I only lake boat yet open sea boating is similar yet more complex.

This is too long to paste into one post so this is the first one/part.

Take care


Note 1 is:
===
JUST DAY/WEEKS BEFORE BOATING TRIP CHECKLISTS:

BOATING TRIP PREPARATION CHECKLIST:
Check the weather & WIND SPEED forecast!
Wind over 20 MPH/can mean WAVES Over 3’(a No no) Especially for wide lakes or with no wind breaking mountains.
(NO fun to launch or dock or retrieve or boating in At All & TOO Much to safely in a Tri-Hull(Calm Lake boat design)can sink, Go Another Day!!)
If you get to the lake and the water is cresting, Do NOT launch the boat!

-Check the Lake’s current water(often fed by cold snow melt) temperature(found in look up link below).
If doing any water sports/swimming, then 77-94 F. degrees water is ok.
Between 80-85 F. is ideal for many. Caution, going below 70 F. can cause hypothermia-dangerous & below 60 F. -Cold shock/death.
Especially for Skinny/small Children, Elderly, etc.


https://www.beachtemp.us/beach/870958/

TEST start boat engine if needed(with water muffs on and water hose turned to full).
Check gas tank level.

Stock pile ICE/Ice Packs from ice maker for boat cooler!

Pick up subway sandwiches the day, or night before.

If staying over night, bring flashlights and sleeping supplies etc.

INVITE PEEPS:

Encourage motion sick pills w/caffeine before leaving and sensitive people sit in the back of the boat!

Add your friends and family names here:


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STILL NEED TO DO/GET:

**MAKE & PACK ICE!**

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-Pliers & Boat plug and wheel chuck in van
-Beach towels
-Drinks
-Food
-Nite-Flood/Flash-light
-Umbrella

Note: Some other non-CO states max trailer speed is as low as 55mph.

ONBOARD BOAT ITEMS/SUPPLIES & TOOLS:

ALREADY IN BOAT:
-1 floatation life vest in boat for each person & 2 dogs & 1 throwable floatation device, law requires.
-Fire extinguisher-law requires-stow away from bilge.
-Tow floatables & patch kit w/super glue.
-Spare fuse and relay & other parts & tools or boat
-2 cycle marine oil
-Sunblock.
-Binoculars
-Dog leashes
-Air pump for floatations
-Swim goggles
-Swim ear and nose plugs
-Swim hair caps
-Helmet(Water sport/Bicycle/Football), strongly recommended, for towed person safety
-Paper plates & silverware
-First aid kit
-Simple meds and bug off
-Sunglasses float straps
-Phone waterproof bags
-2 Beach Towels
-Bow cover for high waves seal.

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TOOLS needed on board:
-Adjustable 1” wrench for: hull plug,
-Screw driver for Trim manual relief valve access
Steering trim tab adjustments:
-7/16" socket & wrench-for Stabilizer trim-Philips screw driver.
-Bailing water bucket?

Note 2 is:
===

BOATING PROCEDURES(For Mostly Recreational Lake Boating):

-LEAVING FOR BOATING DESTINATION:
-Everyone-last call for the bathroom.
-Drinks/Food in tow vehicle for trip consumption.
-Apply SunScreen Heavily. (Convenient Sprays-Don’t Inhale, Use Hands! Don’t Miss: Head-Bald-Spots, Ears, Nose, Knees, Feet & Under Clothes Edges)(Protection only starts after 15 min. drying & chemically bonding).
-Pack ice in cooler/seat pocket.
-Take Motion Sickness pill(generally they require 30-60 min. to take effect)(Often 1/2 a pill is perfect, won’t feel loopy)(A Small piece of a pill can be given to Dogs).
Consider taking caffeine to counteract the drowsy effects.
-Drop & secure the Bimini top & remove the entire boat cover at home(most covers tear & do damage at highway speeds).
-Raise & lock Engine up in position.
-Check both vehicle’s tire pressures & add as needed.
-Hitch up trailer, including lock pin-padlock & safety chains(cross them). (Grease ball/socket if dry).
-Check trailer tail & brake lights functioning.
-Consider driving with headlights on for added safety.
-Remember to drive the highway speed limit-is often lower when pulling a trailer(65mph in Colorado, as low as 55mph in some states)(Trailer tires are often max. speed rated 65mph).
-Remember trailers require much wider turns.
-Drive more conservatively, courteously & careful.
-Note: If the boat-trailer weight is a mystery, it may be wise to stop at a public weigh scale. Then review the load safety of the tires & trailer etc & your state’s legality of your towing set up. Act accordingly. i.e. Add: Electric trailer brakes, larger tow vehicle.

-DRIVING ON THE WAY TO BOATING DESTINATION:
-Have a fun briefing/Q & A with your boating crew on where and what is all the boat’s equipment & boating general info/emergency procedures. Turning everyone into co-pilots and potential future Captains.
GAS TANK FILLING OF BOAT-If needed, FIRSTLY(Otherwise use Marina gas pump at the Lake-if available):
Oxygenated Ethanol: Attracts and absorbs water, possibly causing poor starting/performance, if water gets into your tank. Does not store as long-expires sooner in winter storage. Is more corrosive on parts and can clean/loosen tank age build up gunk, causing filter clogging. Causes engine to run leaner/hotter, as if at a lower altitude, may require fuel mixture adjustment. Avoid octane boosters w/ethanol. Use fuel stabilizes.
Boat engines before 1985, designed for E0 or up to E5(5% Ethanol) gas, might be ok. Since 1990 have been designed for up to E10 gas.
Avoid Altogether E15(15% Ethanol) gas or higher concentrations than your engine was designed for. Otherwise rubber seals/gaskets/hoses/floats/alloy/plastic bowls may be damaged sooner and poor performance.
Also try to avoid E10 gas whenever you can. Marina might be more expensive, but may be the more desirable E0/E5 gas. Try “Pure Gas” app to locate ethanol free pumps.

1. In an empty small gas can/jug, add 2.6 oz marine 2 cycle oil for Each gallon of gas-that you desire to pump into the boat gas tank. (Low brand generic oils can smoke badly).
2. Top with gas, almost completely filling the gas can/jug.
3. Close & shake-mix it good.
4. Dump this oil & gas mixture into the gas tank.
5. Fill the gas tank with all the rest of the gas you desired.

-Before opening the tank cap, ground touch the metal nozzle to your hand & then the nozzle to the metal cap, to discharge any static electricity spark(also wet hands if boat is in water).
-Proceed to open tank cap & fill the tank til almost full, then:
Add 2 cycle marine oil(XD-30/TC-W3) to the gasoline tank by mixing, in a small container, measured Oil needed And an equal or more part with gas & shake/mix. Then pour mixture into gas tank.
Mix Ratio @ 2% (50 parts
Gas:1 part Oil), I.e.(2.66 Oz oil per Gal.)/(1 pint(16oz) oil per 6 gal. Gas.)(128 oz in one gallon of oil)/(1 gal. Oil to 49 gal. Gas).
-Tank capacity 30 gallons.

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ARRIVED AT BOATING DESTINATION-
-If first time to Lake. Park and walk around. Ask questions, get to know the lay out & marina & amenities offered, etc.
-MOVE TO PRE-Aquatic Nuisance Species Inspection PREPARATION AREA:
-Assess the weather/wind/waves(any rough white capping?!), cancel the launch if not comfortable or safe.
-Everyone-last call for the public bathroom.
-Take Motion Sickness pill(if you haven’t already).
-Apply SunScreen Heavily!(Every 2-3 hours!/after Swimming!)(Water amplifies/reflects UV aging/skin cancer/sunburn rays)(Apply if/where clothes/shirt is removed)!
-Touch each trailer wheel hub, looking for unusual high heat present, indicating wheel bearings or seals may need greasing or possible replacement asap(especially if one hub is much hotter that another). If very hot, it’s best to let them cool down before backing them into the cool water, to avoid a cooler water being drawn into them.
-Remove rear-Stern tie down straps (But NOT the bow(front) chain/winch hook!)
-Primer fuel Bulb-hold it VERTICALLY & squeeze pump it until just fully firm.
-Remove boat cover-if any.
-Install Bimini Top.
-Move any needed supplies from vehicle, into the boat.
-Loads-Weight is properly balanced/distributed & secured in the boat, evenly but more towards the Stern(rear). To avoid sinking your boat: Bow Nose-Diving into Water “Stuffing”-Bow too Heavy, Bow Uncontrolled-Popping-Up “Porpoising”-Stern too Heavy, Side-Tilting flip-over “Capsizing”-Loads favoring/shifting to one side.
-Be sure the labeled boat persons/weight capacity will not be exceeded, to avoid risk of Sinking boat “Swamping”.
-Attach phone waterproof pouches, floating keychains & glasses float straps as required, safely store everything else!
-Secure personal items from dropping in the water & lost forever! (phones(place in waterproof pouches), sun glasses(attach floatation cord), use keychain floaters on items, check pants pockets for items etc).
-Bow & Stern Dock tie ropes-get them ready.
-Set Anchor out on back boat seat for decontamination Inspector to inspect.
-Turn sump pump to auto-on.
-Hang rubber ”fenders" on the boat side at the dock height where they will kiss the dock.
-Designate at least 1 or 2 people, ideally 16+ Y.O. & sober, as your co-pilot/launch helper.
-Pick a ramp best for the wind conditions(where strong winds won’t harshly blow boat into another boat or the dock)(A gentle wind blowing the boat into the dock can be helpful).

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-NOW MOVE TO PRE-RAMP DECONTAMINATION INSPECTION-CHECK POINT(If any):
-Present inspector with last visit’s blue check-point-inspection passed exit-ticket.
-Install Boat plug(1/2” PVC)-install snugly using 1" wrench, after inspection is finished.
-Consider giving the inspection station a treat(trail mix etc.) as a thank-you for their hard work.

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APPROACHING RAMP(Slow yourself down, stay calm & collected):

-BACK TRAILER DOWN RAMP:
-Heavy/Large boats may require a 4 wheel low gears tow vehicle.
-Caution especially in swampy places: if the ramp is excessively moldy/slippery/unmaintained, you can suffer a ramp slip & fall injury & even a front wheel block might not save your tow vehicle from sliding completely under water.
-Have your co-pilot/helper get into the boat.
-Ramps designs vary. First observe how others are driving down & launching.
-For Long & Wide Ramps, drive down the farthest right side of the ramp & then make a wide left U turn up the ramp, aiming for the open ramp lane you have chosen to use, until your rig is straightened out in it.
-Back down incline using Neutral gear(Not reverse) to Slowly back down, with your foot constantly on your brake pedal.
-When backing, the trailer moves in the opposite direction of the steering wheel movement. Simply placing your hand(s) at bottom of the steering wheel fixes this confusion.
-Focus on your trailer staying in your chosen lane & when needed, turn the steering wheel Sharply & Abruptly But then turn Back to Center, to avoid the trailer wandering completely off course. If completely off-course, simply drive forward in your lane until your rig is straight in the lane again. Then again proceed back down in neutral. It takes practice for everyone, don’t allow sabotaging thoughts.
-Stop trailer just Before tow vehicle’s rear tires get in the water.
LAUCHING BOAT:
-Boats sitting on: Push-off-Rollers require less backing in(& allow launching/retrieving in low tide/shallow/undeveloped ramps).
Slide-Bunkers must be in deep enough water to virtually float.
-Keep your foot on the brake pedal(locks all 4 wheels & any trailer brakes).
-Put vehicle in Park & Also apply the Park Brake. (This typically Only locks the rear wheels).
-Now slowly take your foot off the brake pedal & confirm the Park-locked wheels are holding vehicle from sliding.
-Step out carefully onto the wet/slippery ramp.
-If the ramp is especially slippery then place a piece of rock/wedge/wood behind your vehicle’s front tire.
-Pilot: Check for water leaking into boat at bilge/around the plug-in case it was forgotten.
-Pilot: Start engine in water-follow outlined procedure below.
-Driver: Unhook trailer to boat-bow safety-chain. When the pilot is ready, un-crank the winch & then unhook it.
-Pilot: Drive boat back to a near by courtesy dock-typically next to the ramps, *although they can be crowded.

MARINAS:
-*Often have a few short-term FREE “courtesy” slips, typically located by their gas pump(s).
You can use these for whatever: loading/unloading/use their restroom/buy store items, fishing license/maybe even take a shower/restaurants, etc.
-Can offer Diving/Repair/Tow services. Some, things like: dry storage for your trailer & boat.
So if you live far away, you can leave them till your next visit, weeks later. Get to know the marina website, amenities & their phone number.

-Driver: Move & park tow vehicle & lock it up, hide any belongings under the seats, out of view.
-Driver: Make sure there is a keychain float attached to your tow vehicle keys & secure in the boat.

-Load remaining passengers at the dock, balanced and evenly.

LIFE VESTS(Inflatable type vests have use restrictions, see rules)(Vests vary in price & classification/effectiveness)(One must be available onboard for all persons):
-For boats less than 16’ long, Everyone must wear a life vest.
Otherwise, Only:
-Under 13y.o. Must wear a life vest At-ALL-Times while underway(moving)(Except in an enclosed cabin/below deck).
-Disabled/Frail/Can’t Swim passengers, ideally should wear a life vest at all times.
-People sink, life vests float, people need them.
-Dog-life vest are recommended, especially ones w/lift handle. Dogs can be distracting, so maybe best left at home?
-Alcohol/Drugs plus water can lead to injury/death. Water is really all that’s needed to have real fun.
Marijuana is Not legal in Colorado Parks, Only 3.2 beer.
If any passenger is not sober, the Pilot should expel them to land or at least require they wear a life vest AT ALL TIMES.

BOW RIDING IS ONLY FOR THE HARDY:
-Bow passengers, during rough rides, must hold on & be careful not to bite their tongue, hit their head etc.
-Motion Sensitive/Disabled/Frail/Poor Back passengers, should Avoid the Bow while underway.

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STARTING BOAT ENGINE IN WATER:
-If gas fumes purge blower equipped(I.nboard/O.utboard (Car like) engine design), turn it on. N/A for Outboard engine design.
-If engine is up, Lower engine so Prop. & the higher water cooling inlets are just under the water. If the up position locking arm is engaged, then first Raise engine to unlock manual arm.
-If not recently run: Squeeze-pump the fuel primer bulb until just past firm.
-With throttle lever in neutral, & overboard kill-switch tether on you, raise warm-up idle-rev handle. Turn key to crank/start, if engine is cold, also push the key in(Primes engine).
-When engine starts, REDUCE then then completely lower neutral revs handle so that RPM’s Never exceed 3,000!
-If operating boat in very shallow waters, maintain below 1500 RPM, so engine can be tilted up high(15+ deg.)to avoid Prop. damage(as long as engine water inlets are in the water). Caution: If RPM exceeds 1,500, tilt will automatically lower to max trim position.
-Never run engine out of the water as engine may be ruined if over revved. Also water-cooling pump-impeller running dry will be ruined quickly & then engine may be ruined if overheated.
-If battery is too weak to start, jump start. (Cable attachment/sparking can be very dangerous if gasoline vapors are concentrated in the battery compartment).
Or use manual pull rope to start engine. (If engine is cold, set manual choke lever found on starboard side of engine head near manual pull rope).
-Water pump. check functioning!-tell-tale water peeing out of the exhaust housing idle relief, engine bottom, starboard side(use a sewing needle to clear any sand from inside hole).
-Dash volt gauge check readings w/accessory switch on & engine OFF SB approx. 12.6v(if under, battery needs charging). With engine running, should raise to approx. 13.3v(if no raise, rectifier/stator may be bad)(if higher, battery is getting old-harder to charge).
But if over approx. 14.6v-system is over-charging. If readings are “jumpy”, charging system is defective. Repair asap. (A volt meter can also be connected to the battery posts to double check readings)(never connect the battery backwards, will ruin rectifier)(193-3408 cdi electronics). p6-15.

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BOAT UNDERWAY(Moving with engine)
-Captain-Driver must be 16 y.o. + & sober. Is responsible for everyone’s well being and should strive to always stay at Helm(controls/steering).
-Water accidents-Full details must be fully reported within 5 days-If over $1,999 damage or Loss of Life or Vessel. (Colorado law).
-Depth/Fish finder is a very helpful addition.
-Driver’s rear view mirror can be a helpful addition.
-Pilot(Captain) is in-charge & Must wear Over-board Kill switch(If boat so equipped/originally equipped) & Must be 16+ y.o. & Sober.
-Polarized sunglasses see water hazards better.
-Engine area when started-make sure no one is in the water.
-Co-Pilot-designate someone in the co-pilot seat to help navigate, help Pilot maintain 360 deg. Lookout & much more. Slow way down to avoid unmarked Hazards i.e fallen trees, sand bars, other boats & their towable, swimmers, seaweed, rocks, passing boat wakes, floating debris, etc.
-Do not Exceed 5mph in Wake-less marked zones Or when within 150’ of: Boats Servicing Buoys/Markers, Docked/Moored vessels, Swimming areas & Shore Fishers(Must increase distance to 150’+ if possible). Wakes(waves created by your moving boat) traveling too fast can cause colliding-damage & disturbances.
-Boat occupants Not allowed(illegal) on edges of moving boat or other unsafe positions.
-Do not exceed 40mph(legal CO limit) Or engine RPM over 5,000(to prevent damage). (This engine might have a 5800 rev. limiter power pack(s)).
-TRIM SETTINGS underway(normal conditions):
Bow-Down(Plowing), when going slow or in a bit Rougher water, provides grip and a smoother ride.
Bow-Up(Planing), with speed & by raising the trim up, but not to the point of Prop. blow/spin outs(breaking free of the water) or porpoising. Provides the best Speed, MPG & driest ride. (But less stability & there can be greater high-throttle steering-pull/torque).
At Planing Speed, adjust trim slightly, finding the best setting that provides Max. Speed/RPM, without changing the throttle.
-Waves from other vessels and wind are constantly creating hazards.
-Best fuel economy is your “cruising speed”(sweet-spot, a low-speed plane(approx. 3,500 RPM), trimmed to maximized speed (approx. 20 mpg).
-HARD/FAST TURNS-MINIMIZE RISKS BY: Yelling to passengers “TURNING, HOLD ON!”. Look to the side-for any vessel in the way. Reduce Speed & Trim(Avoids Prop. blow/spin-outs).
If boat Skips/Slides/Any sign of loss-of-control, then IMMEDIATELY Reduce the Speed & Turn.
-Careless/Reckless driving is illegal & can be deadly. Read about your boat’s design weaknesses/limits & drive accordingly. Don’t capsize your boat.
-EMERGENCY STOP-FROM PLANING SPEED: Yell to passengers “HOLD ON!”. At the same time, throttle to neutral & turn steering wheel 90 degrees(a right angle). This maneuver assures the fastest stop & clears you of your speeding boat’s trailing wake’s influences.
-Buoys/Markers-read & follow their Warnings & Restrictions(see Buoy Signs list & section on rules for more info).

OBSERVE WATER’S COLOR FOR THEIR INDICATIONS:
-White=Sand Bar Exposed, Agrounding Danger.
-Brown/Dark or Green in winter/cold water=Very Shallow.
-Blue(Teal-blue when the sun is directly overhead)=Deep water, Safe.
-Water Color Change=Approach Slowly, with a bow spotter looking.

CONTINUED

[JIMTMCDANIELS]

Post 2 of:

HORN USE/SIGNALS(Not all are used much in Lakes):
-Close-Qtr's Or leaving dock-1 Long horn(5 sec.)
-Communicate danger to another vessel-5-Short(1 sec.) horn. (In Darkness-flashlight signal & direct flashlight to illustrate the danger).
-Overtaking/crossing a close vessel:
To pass on their right(starboard) side-1 Short(1 sec.),
To pass on their left(port) side-2 Short horns. Only proceed If the same signal is returned.
-Backing up-3 Short horns.
-Fog/Poor Visibility-1 Long (5 sec.) horn every 2 Min. (2 Long if stopped).


VESSEL’S RIGHT OF WAY:
-Head-on vessel is close-move-stay to your Right(starboard) side-Otherwise stop/slow till the vessel passes.
-Crossing vessel is close-allow the vessel to the Right(starboard) has the right-a-way, allow it to proceed first.
-Give way to close Sailing vessels Or if directed to by another vessel.
-Obscure corners-Be cautious.

AT NIGHT:
If Anchored/Moored at a non designated area: Stern (all-around light) required ON.
Underway(go Very slowly & carefully):
Stern & Bow Sides combo light(green(starboard) & red(port) combo)-Must be ON(masthead light is only recommended for small boats).
Occasional spot-light is allowed as needed, no other lights allowed that interfere with appearance, & NO blue or red lights.
IF STAYING OVER NIGHT:
-Lake park rules might allow sleeping on boat, anchored or beached(may restrict sleeping in/on).
-Marina might rent overnight slips, for sleeping on boat or just parking it.
-Lake park might allow camping on shore or in a designated camp site(fee & reservation may apply).
-You can always retrieve boat onto the trailer before the inspection station closes and then relaunch in the morning after the inspection station opens again.
(Lake Pueblo Overnight Boat Beaching(But must camp at a reserved site) allowed@ Coves: Kettle Creek-medium, ShipRock-Large, West of South Marina Boat Ramp-small).


PULLING/TOWING PEOPLE BEHIND THE BOAT(Tubes, Skies, Wakeboard, etc):
-Min. 3 people in boat(Driver, Designated Observer, Rider) it’s the law.
-Kids Under 6 y.o. are illegal to be towed!
-Rider must be Sober.
-Floatation life vest must be worn by riders being towed OR on a personal craft(jet ski etc.) OR on a personal floatation device-outside a cove.
-Fluorescent Green/Orange are the most visible colors in the water.
-Multiple riders, especially for children, might collide with each other, causing passing out or serious injuries.
So Helmets(bicycle/skateboard) are Recommended.
-Helmet studies Strongly suggest using a Helmet for speeding/performing stunts/tricks, higher speeds risk concussion.
-Towing people is Not allowed between Sundown & Sunrise & Never from personal crafts(jet skis etc.).
-Rafts(non motorized) must be permanently marked with: owner’s name, address, phone-recommended.
-ATTACHMENT REQUIREMENTS:
-When dragging a tube etc., Never attach it to the light duty ski/wakeboard-only pylon! Instead use the 2 heavy duty stern transom eye-hooks with a Y rope & line floater-to avoid Prop. entanglement. Don’t pull more than one item at a time.
-Rope type & lengths: Polypropylene floats nicely avoiding Prop. Loops on both ends, low stretch-is all round best(SB strong enough for tow weights but will break if caught on something).
Lengths: 50'-60' good for tow-ables, 60'-75' wake-board/ski w/handle, >26' wake-Surf.
More Water Sports & Towing info: https://boaterpal.com/how-fast-shoul...rts/#more-8291


-OBSERVER’S DUTIES(Teach/Tell Observer):
-Must Always have a designated Observer who takes responsibility seriously.
-Is in charge of the rope, will make sure rope is away from Prop. When needed, yells "rope not clear!” to driver, & pulls the rope in.
-When someone is in the water(not being pulled/downed), display an orange or red flag at least 1’ sq.- should be high.
-Sits backwards.
-Watches the rider’s facial expressions & their hand signals, loudly relaying to the driver, when needed.
-Yells “Rider Down” to driver, when needed.


-RIDER DUTIES(Teach/Tell Rider):
-Remove any Glasses, Jewelry, Phone, Shoes etc. Goggles are recommended.
-Hands Only-on-handles, so Never lock/wrap hands, arms, legs into the handles, injury will occur!
-Bend legs up at knees, Until the pull rope slack is gone, to eliminate the possibility of the rope catching their legs.
-Keep mouth/teeth Closed to avoid biting tongue, especially when the ride gets rough.
-Use hand signals to communicate to observer:
thumb up=go faster/more waves, thumb down=go slower/less waves, left thumb=keep going, right thumb(or neck wave)=I'm done, circle movement with finger=drive in a circle, Ok sign=Perfect/maintain.
-Riders must be alert for other boats & hazards.
-Downed Riders must protect themselves by Waving & Screaming at another boat if it is approaching them too closely or swim away if needed.
-Never to get in the boat if the engine is still running. Say "shut off the engine, I want to come in".
-Climb onto the tube from the water, Not from the boat, to avoid fall dangers.


-DRIVER RESPONSIBILITIES:
-Go Slow Until the rope slack is taken up, in case rope dangerously entangles rider’s legs etc.
-Back-up only when unavoidable & with caution because it might cause Prop. entanglement with rope or worse, running over the rider.
-Stay alert & well clear of obstacles for the towed. Maintain 150’+ from: harbors, swimming beaches, mooring areas.
-Drive Counter-clockwise-Unless returning to pickup someone/equipment downed. Drive to maintain constant visual of person(s)(keep swimmer on the driver's side). A rear view mirror is helpful.
-Avoid slacking the line.
-Shut off engine whenever a swimmer is near.
-Keep under suggested max. 25mph, but much slower for kids, fragile people or beginners.
Skiers go faster than wake-boarders.
-Tow-ables fun techniques: For beginners, first start with a straight pull to get them comfortable, then either: turn side to side to wave the wake OR drive at half-plane speed in a 50' circle keeping the towable in the wake center, a few circles till nice wakes form, then turn 90 deg. out of the circle-pulling the towable thru those wakes(for advanced riders, accelerate after the turn)!
-Install & use a Rear View Mirror.
-Reapply SunScreen Heavily. (Water can wash off Sunscreen).


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SWIMMING AROUND/OUTSIDE THE BOAT(not allowed in some Lakes):
-Life Vest is recommended for children.
-Ideally, a designated adult should stand as a watchful life guard for everyone.
-Recreational swimming is appropriate/safest inside a cove(Small Sheltered Shoreline Recess).
-Large coves are popular for socializing. (Lake Pueblo-Peck Creek Cover).
-Small coves are good for privacy.
-Engine off when swimmers are around the boat.
-Life vest recommended for Children or only swimming from the shallow shore.
-Cliff/Rock jumping-off is Not allowed(some fools do it anyway).
-Scuba diving-must display red-white flag within 100 feet of diver, boats not involved must avoid this zone. Boats involved with the diving operation must separately display a 1 meter tall blue-white flag.
-Reapply SunScreen Heavily. (Sun’s UV rays penetrate water up to 8 feet) (Water’s cool feel hides the burning sensation of sunburns until they are quite severe).
-Vinyl pool blow up floatations are great to lounge in the water around the boat. Note any bubbling leaks, so you can super-glue vinyl-scrap-patch them later.
-All floatations must be permanently marker with your: name, address and phone number(suggested) per CO law.


BATHROOM/TOILET OPTIONS: (for boats without bathrooms(“heads”).
-First be aware of relevant sensitive, illegal-behavior while in-public Laws, concerning(vary by Jurisdictions-check online):
Urinating/Defecating(lack of nearby bathroom might be a valid exemption).
Indecent Exposure(i.e. knowingly exposing your anus/genitals to someone else, in a way that is “likely to cause an affront/alarm”).
Lewdness(i.e. indecent/obscene behavior, usually includes an element of lustful/sexual indulgence).
Additionally:
Releasing pee/poop into inland(bay, canal, lake, river, etc) waters, or into the ocean at under 3 miles from the ocean shore, is Not Legal, without certain approved treatment systems.
Releasing into the ocean, when more than 3 miles from the ocean shore, is generally Ok/Legal.


-Pee/poop in inland water is an outdated practice, especially poop.
Both can harm fish(cause algae blooms & more) & are a common way to fall overboard & maybe drown.
If done while in the water, it requires more straining & can cause a Urinary tract infection.
-Portable toilet: (simple pee bottle, DIY bucket w/trash bag containing sawdust Or a commercial device) for onboard/camping use & optional privacy curtain.
Can stow it away until needed. Bucket can be handy for other uses.
-Pee/poop on shore-Discretely & away from view of others, behind a bush/tree etc. might be ok, w/Poop in a container.
-Marinas typically have bathrooms & even short term “Courtesy”-FREE slips. Long enough to use their restroom.
-Camp site/public restrooms might be close to shore, if you can get out and walk to them. Check a park map.
-If you suddenly have to go Right NOW, any container/no container might have to do.
-Many people don’t need to go poop while boating, just by going just before leaving on a trip.

-
MOORING(PARKING & SECURING/TIE UP, TO A PERMANENT STRUCTURE) BOAT (Colorado-Mooring is not allowed in Non-designated areas):


-MOORING BUOY(Officials may place at popular anchor sites, so you can just tie to it, instead of dropping anchor):
A White buoy w/ a Blue Band-must have.
Tie a Boat Bow cleat to the Buoy.


-“DOCK” is a wonderful generic & simplifying term for any Mooring platform, often found in a Harbor/Marina/Port.
More descriptive synonyms you may hear are:
Berth/Slip=Assigned(Rented space/storage) dock(Some with electricity power outlets). Typically a U shaped marina mooring-only one side is open to enter.
Jetty=Perpendicular to shore, which deflects current and might have a dock/landing platform.
Pier=Perpendicular to shore docking platform. Typically of Wood Columns/Piles/Pillars.
Quay=Parallel/Alongside to shore, docking/landing platform. Typically of Concrete/Stone/Metal.
Wharf=Parallel/Alongside to shore. Typically of Concrete/Stone.


DOCKING(Mooring to a dock):
-Group effort!-ask for co-pilot help, so the captain can focus on driving & Never leave the wheel!
-Away from boat traffic(& bridges-looks suspicious)-don’t interfere or impede other vessels.
-Pick a dock best for wind conditions(boat won’t blow/bang hard into dock).
-Bimini top down-IF it is windy!
-Hang fenders(rubber bumpers) on the boat side & at the dock height where they will "kiss" the dock.
-Bow & Stern cleats tie lines or Anchor ready.
-Go a Super slow speed “no faster than you are willing to accidentally hit the dock(potential boat damage).
-Docking/Mooring lines in your water path-watch out for, from other boats or left overs-a severe hazard to your prop!
-Steer into the water/wind forces & turn the boat at the end.
-Turn the wheel Before applying any engine power & use only short bursts, for best control of single engine boats.
-Use enough power to counter/overcome any water current/wind force.
-Abort approach if needed, nothing wrong with a "practice run".
-Keep fingers/hands Out from between boat & Dock to avoid possible serious injury.
-Tie it up adequately using that side of boat’s cleats: wrap base 3/4, then figure 8 with rope tail under the last loop & pull tight(Cleat Hitch).
-Keep engine running Until lines are fastened/moored.
(Chatfield has <30 min. Free(fee due if longer) courtesy docks-subject to availability-by the gas pump).

-
ANCHORING THE BOAT:
-Anchors are Designed to:
Catch & Hold the boat, by digging into the water’s floor: When dragged/pulled closer to Horizontal.
Much rope length is needed to create the needed horizontal-like anchor-to-boat angle. Using a short heavy(Sentinel) chain between the Anchor-to-rope attachment, weights down the rope, increasing the desired attachment angle & providing more shock absorbing.
Release: When pulled straight up at Vertical-for removal.
-Anchor Rode(method of attachment): Common is a 1/4” or thicker-Nylon(Doesn’t float,Strong wStretch-so ideal), braided,(typically 3 strands, is better than twisted), ideally w/a short galvanized chain for final attachment to the anchor.
-If you drop your Anchor & Rope end, it will sink/lost. So attach the rope end to the boat with a clip, so you can still disconnect it, in a situation.
-Avoid Anchoring in an anchor trapping “Foul Ground” marked(map/sign etc.) area, or you may loose the anchor.
-Drive Upwind, 2x the depth-distant of the water(if planning a common Minimum 3:1-“Scope”-Rope length to Water Depth Ratio), past the spot where you want the boat to be held. Anchor where the boat can swing 360 Deg. on it, obstacle free.
-Lower the Heavy Anchor Carefully & Slowly, away from your boat’s delicate surface. Using one hand over the water & the other over the rope pile(watch your feet). Feed rope length 3x the water depth(3:1 “Scope”). If Anchor does not hold, increase Scope(Rope Length).
Rope marked w/counting colors/stripes, indicates how much has been deployed. Keep rope away from the Prop.
-Tie it up adequately ALWAYS to a BOW(Reduces chance of capsizing) cleat: wrap cleat base, 3/4 turn, then figure 8, then tuck the rope tail under the last loop & pull tight(Cleat Hitch).
-Note 2 land reference points to assure the the anchor is holding when the bow is pointing into the wind.
-If it’s dragging/not holding the boat-increase rope length(angle to anchor). Don’t use the boat engine to drag the anchor, this can lead to an anchor you can’t retrieve.
-Consider using an alarm GPS zone app like “Anchor Time” to alert you if the Anchor should move/release, especially for long term anchoring/sleeping.
-Consider using an anchor-retrieval ring & buoy on the rope to greatly reduce your chances of an unretrievable anchor.
-For lake boating, some prefer only anchoring in safer/simpler shallow cove waters, eliminating the need for a long rope & more difficult anchor retrieval.
-AT NIGHT-Stern light must be left on-If Anchoring. (Colorado Not allowed-on shore-camping).


ANCHOR CLOSE TO SHORE method: Drop Anchor from the Stern, just before shore, in shallows. Use its rope to stop boat’s forward movement, just before the shore and tie to a Stern cleat.
Now throw a loose rope end from a Bow Cleat, to a shoreside crew member to tie it to a beach Anchor/Stake/Tree.
If low Stern’s vulnerability to waves is a concern, reverse the boat’s facing.
To depart, release the shore anchor first, then pull towards to water anchor to retrieve.

ANCHOR PULLING UP/RETRIEVAL(WEIGH-ED):
-Arm Signal the driver the direction of your sunken anchor. As boat slowly moves towards it, use hand over hand to reel rope onto deck. Once over anchor, show a fist to signal driver to stop.
-Bend knees & pull anchor, it may pop loose. Then use hand over hand till you Carefully retrieve anchor around the delicate boat surfaces.
-If Anchor is stuck(watch fingers):
Wrap anchor rope taught Only Once around a bow cleat. Pull any rope slack that comes as the boat bow sinks between waves. As the boat raises on a wave the anchor might come loose. But if the bow might go under & sink the boat, let the rope have slack back.
Next, try it again while the pilot motor the boat forward, against the wind(which is the opposite anchoring direction). So using the motor to try to break the anchor free.
If all else fails, if the water is too cold/deep for you to swim down to the anchor, you will have to either:
Attach a rope buoy & come back with help(a bigger boat). Or abandon the anchor, first get in the water & knife cut the rope down-short, so it’s not a surface hazard.
-Consider an anchor-retrieval ring & buoy system. Where you drive the boat, in a half moon trajectory which ends into the wind, that’s to the side of & in front of the anchor. When the buoy dives & comes back up, it signals the anchor is now floating with it & is ready for retrieval by now heading to it while keeping the rope out of the Prop.


-Clean Anchor & inspect its rope for any damage requiring replacement. Anchor Must be clean for Park’s exit inspection.
-Secure Heavy Anchor-so it can’t damage delicate boat surfaces, while underway.


-
BEACHING BOAT:
-ONLY consider a Sandy/Only slightly Muddy/Soft beach(No rocks to damage the hull w/wave actions).
-Simply coasting in & dropping/walking anchor up the shore may be sufficient to hold the boat(or tied to a Stake/Tree).
-Avoid Sea Weed often at shore, that easily wraps around & stops the propeller(a chore to remove).


-Otherwise use “Anchor Close to Shore” method(see above) or anchor a bit aways from shore & swim to shore.
Staying nearby or onboard and paying attention to the wind and tide help ensure that your boat remains safely beached.
-Coast in, with Motor Off & Trimmed Up, to avoid Prop. damage. Once disembarked, Pull the boat in more by hand.
LEAVING:
-Crew member(s) push boat till floating off the shore. While Pilot starts to drive the boat. Crew then uses swim ladder to climb into boat.


-
STORMS/THUNDER/WIND/RAIN:
-VISUAL INDICATORS:
-Dark & Dense Low clouds, indicate foul weather approaching. Funnel Clouds can signal Tornados. A sudden shift in wind direction w/a temp. drop, signal the the storm front arrival. Conditions can deteriorate quickly, if the storm is severe.
-Stand, w/wind at your back: Point to the left to find the storm center's position, If high clouds move left to right you'll get bad weather. If they move right to left the conditions will improve. Clouds just moving towards or away from you keeps the patterns the same.
-When winds double in speed, waves quadruple in strength.
-Subscribe to Weather Alerts/Apps.
-LIGHTNING:
-Predominantly occurs in June/July, between noon and 6pm.
-Each second between a Lightning flash and its Thunder sound, indicates a 1/5 Mile(1/3 Kilometer) storm distance.
-Can occur without any rain. Only after 30 Min. since the last thunder is heard, is lightning gone.
-If strikes are around you: Stay low. Disconnect all non essential electronics/power, remove metal jewelry, avoid touching any metal with bare hands. Get on your knees in the boat/cabin, head bowed, with hands on knees. Just before a close strike, you might experience body hair standing/skin tingle.
-STRIKES:
-Are more attracted to boats & their taller objects i.e. & Sailboat Masts, Bimini metal, Radio Antennas, Person Standing, etc.
-Can: easily damage sensitive electronics, blow a hole in the hull, cause fire, or even kill.
-Portable electronics placed in a metal box/cabinet/microwave, can be protected from damage.
-Lightning grounding retrofitting can greatly minimize damage, without attracting strikes.
-Immediate & Prolonged CPR revives most shocked unconscious victims. Cover any severe burns with clean cloth or plastic.


-DECIDE TO RETREAT TO(Unless perhaps the storm is Very Mild):
Marina to Retrieve Boat onto Trailer. (Tricky & time consuming, there may be a crowded waiting line).
Moore Boat (w/Bow facing the roughest/open water waves). Use Bumpers & Tie up Heavily & Tightly. Disembark to shelter.
Cove (Deep inside a well sheltered small one). Drop Anchor Or Beach boat-If Calm & Soft enough.
-Decide on the Best Protection/Refuge Option You have Enough Time to Accomplish, Before Storm Violence arrives.


-Once storm has passed, resume your boating activities(if your not done).


DRIVING IN STORMS/ROUGH OR GIANT WAVES(Many possible waves variables. You have to adapt, find what works for your situation):
-PREPARE FOR THE WORST:
-Bilge Full-On setting(Back to Auto once Conditions Improve-So Battery does not Fully Discharge).
-Navigation lights On.
-Life Vests-on Everyone Now.
-Install Bow Water-Barrier-Cover, Close Window & Stow Gear(“Battening down the hatches”).
-Minimize standing up/falling-hold on.
-Water shedding Bimini Top-Take it down If High Windage might break it.
-Trim Up(Bow Up) to prevent sinking-waves coming over the Bow.


-Rough Waves:
Use the minimum planing speed, to minimize sinking-waves coming over the boat sides.
Tackle waves using a 45 Deg. angle.
-Giant Waves:
Reduce speed to below planing.
When possible, maneuver between Giant waves, by motoring in the Troughs(Low areas).
When a Giant wave is unavoidable, you must slowly but surely motor-through-it, using closer to a 90 Deg. angle(to avoid Capsizing):
Before a Giant wave reaches you, Throttle Up & Trim Up(Bow Up). Driving Up the Tidal wave, Until almost at the very Crest/Top.
Then throttle DOWN, easing your decent on the Backside(Ebb) of the wave.
-Avoid Lake Centers, where Waves are worse.
-Avoid generally anything the storm waves/wind can damage the boat against.


-
EMERGENCIES*:
-Vessels are required to attempt to help a vessel in distress, but without compromising yours’ or your boat’s safety.


-*SIGNAL DISTRESS/HELP NEEDED, to Anyone Nearby with: Constant Loud Sound(s)(Horn/Yelling/Whistle)/Arms waving high.
Also an Orange Flag w/a black circle & square or any Upside-Down Flag, Orange Smoke, Red Flare, Flashing Light/SOS-Code, Mirror, etc.
-VHF Radio Coast Guard’s Informational/Weather Channel 16: ”Mayday Mayday Mayday”-if in Imminent/Grave Danger Or “Pan Pan Pan”-if Only an urgent situation.
Follow with: boat name, call letters, location, nature of situation & what assistance is needed. Pause 45 sec. for a reply. Otherwise repeat.
-Call 911-they can dispatch emergency help.

-MAN OVERBOARD(Yell it):
-Plan ahead for this inevitable situation & for the means of their recovery. Person will be wet/slippery, may be heavy/unconscious.
Small boats/lack of a: ladder/swim platform, is more challenging. More than 1 person may be needed to assist.


-BOAT-TAKING ON WATER-SERIOUS LEAKS:
-Bilge pump-turn on Full.
-Bucket/Scoop Water out of boat.
-DRAIN PLUG(S) MISSING?:
-Jump into the water, if needed, to check. Insert the plug. Otherwise use something else, from either side of the hole. I.e. Rag, Paper Towel etc.
For a missing bilge/stern plug, generally water will come into the hole when stopped, & out when on plane.
Some boats(especially larger) have more than one plug.

HULL LEAK STOP/REPAIR:-Find the leak & Slow/Stop the Water as Best. As Fast as you can, by covering/plugging the hole, from the:
INSIDE/OUTSIDE of the leaking surface using:
Cushion/Pillow, Towel, Life Vest, Chewed Gum, Foam, Plumber’s Putty, Stay Afloat Putty, Toilet Wax Ring, etc.
OUTSIDE of the leaking surface using:
Duct/Roofing Tape, Plastic Sheeting/Sail, a piece of metal/wood covered with foam & a rope attached to the center to pull onto, thick mud, etc.
-Head to Dock/Beach on the nearest shore to avoid sinking, until a solid repair can be made.
-Pulling a swamped boat forward at speed, with its Bow hook tied to Transom hook(s) of another boat with a strong engine, may reverse the sinking effect.
If the engine is not strong enough, pushing on the sides, to move it to shore, may be all it can do.

CONTINUED

[JIMTMCDANIELS]

Post 3 of:

-BOAT FIRE!:
-Can be very dangerous & rapid. Often in the battery/bilge/engine/gas tank areas, electric fires Or ignored concentrated gasoline vapors, ignited with a spark.
-Every boat has at least one fire extinguisher on board for use and often a bucket for scooping water.
-If consuming the boat/severe, jump into the water instead of risking permanent/severe burn injuries/death.
-Nearby vessels can greatly water dowse a boat fire using water spray(watch out for any people in the water):
A boat with Prop. trimmed up & facing the burning boat, by applying high throttle take offs.
A jet-ski by making high speed U turns next to the burning boat.
Consider practicing how to water dowse spray, so you have this skill.
-Emergency service boats might be able to pump water onto the fire.
-Boats are often badly damaged by the time emergency services arrive.


-
FISHING(license valid April 1-March 31)(max 3 hooks per line, second rod requires additional fee)(cleaned/filleted fish on boat Not allowed)(check website for fish min size & max bag count limits):
-License required(Not needed June 2 & 3 or if under 16 Y.O., only $1 for 64yo+), not allowed around boat docks/ramps, or dam face.
-Fish types-Channel catfish, sunfish, crappie, walleye, bass, wipers, rainbow trout, brown trout.
-Sounds can scare Fish away: Fish Finder pinging, bow slapping water(move weight to bow).


FISHING(in Lakes from boat):
-Typically Fish Hotspots/Schools of Fish
More so for Lakes with Dams: Drop offs/Ledges, Deepest water.
More so for Lakes Without Dams: Birds diving, Logs/Rocks/Structures, Vegetation/Shoreline.
-Anchor, Drifting & Trolling, Fishing Styles(Best use the Style nearby successful boaters are using):
-Anchor: Required for trouble-free Bottom Baiting. Position so that the wind will not be in the Angler’s face & so that the Fish Hotspot is to a side of the boat.
-Drifting: Fish Hotspot is large, Anchoring not feasible, etc.
-Trolling(Approx. 1 mph): Targeting Large Fish, Fish Hotspot is large, Anchoring not feasible, etc.
-One method is to Troll until a hot spot is found & then stop & fish by casting & retrieving the line.
-30 deg. Rod Holder may be ideal, 15 deg for non-trolling.
-Fishing techniques are enormous, do research to expand on this broad subject.


-LAKE PUEBLO — PUEBLO:
1. Min. size for largemouth, smallmouth, & spotted bass is 15 inches long.
2. Bag, possession, min. size for walleye & saugeye is 5 in the aggregate, 18 inches long.
3. Only 1 walleye or saugeye in the aggregate longer than 21 inches may be taken per day.
4. Bag & possession limit for crappie is 10.
5. Min. size for crappie is 10 inches long.
6. Bag & possession limit for wiper is 5.
7. Only 1 wiper longer than 21 inches may be taken per day.
8. Underwater spearfishing allowed for channel,
blue & flathead catfish with an aggregate bag & possession limit of 5 & for wiper with a bag & possession limit of 5.
9. Fishing prohibited from dam & within 100 ft. of dam or walleye spawning nets Mar. 1– April 15, or until walleye spawning opera- tions are complete.
10. It is unlawful to possess filleted or cleaned fish in boat on lake.




-CHATFIELD STATE PARK:
1. Min. size for largemouth & smallmouth
bass is 15 inches long.
2. Bag & min. size for walleye is 3, 18 inches
long.
3. Only 1 walleye longer than 21 inches may be
taken per day.
4. Fishing prohibited from dam & within 100
ft. of dam or walleye spawning nets Mar. 1– April 15, or until walleye spawning operations are complete.
5. Fishing prohibited on ponds in dog off-leash area.
Ref. CPW.STATE.CO.US P32
-
LEAVING DESTINATION:
-Push away from dock when leaving.
-Steers Not car like-rear swings out, don't hit the dock!


RETRIEVING/TRAILERING BOAT:
-Tie boat swim step up-if needed.
-Either park boat at dock(see instructions) or circle/idle while getting trailer.
-Pick a ramp best for wind conditions(boat won’t blow into dock).
-BACK TRAILER DOWN RAMP:
-Hand on bottom of steering wheel & use neutral gear down ramp.
-Stop trailer, same when launched.
-Put vehicle in park, & apply park brake & if very slippery also Block front tire.
BOAT:
-Increase boat engine trim up so Prop. won’t touch bottom & carefully drive straight into trailer.
-Use boat engine as needed to push into trailer.
-Connect wrench hook & crank boat up close/tight(for proper hitch tongue weight).
-Safety bow chain hook, attach.
-Tilt engine up fully then extend external manual-lock-arms, Then run tilt down some so the engine weight is on the manual lock(otherwise hydraulics may freeze).



-DRIVE VEHICLE UP RAMP TO Aquatic Nuisance Species Inspection STATION:
-Remove boat plug(1/2” pvc)-using 1" wrench. (Unexpected escaping water might indicate a boat leak, that must be repaired).
-Follow inspector’s instructions.
-Attach road speeds Stern Tie Down Straps!
-Inspect Prop. for entanglements & fishing line.
-Inspect water pump inlets, just behind Prop., for foreign objects.
-Inspect boat hull condition & clean off any plant life/aquatic invasive species or mud off.
-Consider buying more gasoline during the trailer drive home-if needed.
2.6oz 2 cycle oil per gallon gas, always mix in gas can-shake first!
-Move needed supplies from boat, into the vehicle.


-
ARRIVAL HOME:
-Park & unhitch trailer & lock it.
-Touch each trailer wheel hub, looking for any unusual high heat present, indicating wheel bearings or seals may need greasing or replacement.
-Inspect hull for any damage.
-Remove trash & organize boat & tow vehicle.
-Install boat cover.

​OPEN SEA BOATING(Adding as I learn more, in case I ever need it):

OPEN SEA BOATING TIPS:
-Red-Triangle channel markers:
When returning from a larger body of water(I.e. Ocean), generally the marker will have an even number, keep the markers to the right of your boat.
-White stakes, in local waters:
single sets-returning-keep stake to the right of your boat. Double sets=drive between white stakes.


-Tide/water height changes, check on them for your destinations.
Modern marine GPS provides tide info, as well as the internet.
Also ask experienced people at your destinations.
-Tidal current flows in & out, & Tides rise & fall.
-Tides can vary in height & time from one day to the next-Due to Wind & Atmospheric Pressure etc. .
-Gravitational pulls, from our close moon & less from our sun, onto our spinning earth’s bodies-of-water, combined with water’s inertia movement, causes waves & high & low water levels(tides). Tidal ranges, can be over 45’, in some places of our world.
-Docking-you must allow enough slack in tie lines to accommodate tide rise & fall to avoid damage/flipping/sinking.
-Low tide can trap your vessel, even aground it, high and dry, causing damage and making re-float another damaging challenge.
-High tide can trapped/sink your vessel under a dock or block your access back to your vessel.




-Called Spring(-ing forth) or King tide, occurs twice a month, more extreme tides & currents. Caused by our moon & sun aligned together. Visually called a full “new” moon(appears dark/not visible since now the sun is behind it) or a “full” moon(appears completely illuminated, since now earth is between it & the sun). Same pull as during a solar eclipse alignment.
-Neap/moderate tide, occur 7 days after a Spring/King tide.
Caused by our moon & sun now at right angles to each other, some of the moon’s pull is cancelled by our sun.
Visually called First & Third Quarter(a half moon appearance).


-Tides Frequency:
In coastal areas, levels swing from high to low approx. every 12 hours(“Semidiurnal” tides).
Where 2 tides meet(in the Java Sea, the Tonkin Gulf & the Gulf of Mexico), levels swing approx. every 24 hours(“Diurnal” tides).


-Swimming: stick to sheltered bays & be extremely wary of swimming around exposed coasts & straits.


-Boats that are less than 22’ Or which are designed for Lakes, are not really seaworthy and can sink just from the rough waters experienced in some launching sea inlets.


Note 3 is:
===
RULES
BUOYS-BOAT-COLORADO &. BOATING HANDBOOK




• Any of the waters of this state limited to a specific use shall be marked by buoys which utilize the following uniform marking system:
-A. Regulatory Symbols- International orange on a white background.
An orange cross within an orange diamond (on end) means: “Boats Keep Out”.
An orange circle means: “Controlled Area”.
-B. Other Symbols:
An orange diamond (on end) without a cross means: “Danger”. An orange square or rectangle is informational.
Descriptive wording within or accompanying the symbols shall be black.
When the symbols are displayed on a buoy, an orange band should encircle the buoy near the water line and near the top.
-C. Channel Markers:
White buoys with black vertical stripes mark the center of a channel and may be lettered alphabetically from downstream to upstream.
Black can buoys (odd numbers) mark the left side, and red nun buoys (even numbers) mark the right side of a channel when proceeding upstream or returning from the main body of water.
A white buoy with a red top means pass to the south or west of the buoy.
A white buoy with a black top means pass to the north or east of the buoy.
-D. Obstruction Buoy:
A white buoy with red vertical stripes indicates an obstruction between it and the nearest shore.
-E. Mooring Buoy(may tie boat to it):
A mooring buoy is colored white and is designated with a blue band which is at least 3 inches wide and encircles the buoy halfway between the water line and the top.


-
COLORADO BOATING HANDBOOK W/REGULATIONS & STATUES:Note 4
https://cpw.state.co.us/Documents/Bo...egulations.pdf


=

Note 4 is:
===
BOAT LABELS TO CONSIDER ADDING TO THE DASH OR OTHER APPLICABLE LOCATIONS ON THE BOAT(Engine compartment etc.):
(Many sellers on E-bay can make affordable custom decals or plaques)

INSTALL BOW COVER in High Waves!
If overheat horn sounds-stop engine!


RPM GAUGE:
Max RPM: 3,000 Nutrl
& 5,500 RPM Driving
Best MPG @ 3,500


FUEL GAUGE:
30 Gal. Capacity
w/2 cycle oil! 50:1
GPH: .5 Idle, 10 WOT


VOLTAGE GAUGE:
Watch Battery Voltage!:
12.6 Volts Fully Charged
12.4 75%
12.2 V=Half Charged
12.0 25% Danger-Engine might not start
11.8 Volts = Fully Discharged!
*Label:
12.6v=Full,12.4v=75%
12.2v=50%,12.0=25%
11.8v=Rope Start!


-Dash volt gauge check readings w/accessory switch on & engine OFF SB approx. 12.6v(if under, battery needs charging). With engine ON should raise(if no raise, rectifier/stator may be bad) to approx. 13.3v(if higher, battery is getting old-harder to charge), but if over approx. 14.6v-system over-charging or if readings are “jumpy”, charging system is defective, repair asap. (A volt meter can also be connected to the battery posts to double check readings)(never connect the battery backwards, will ruin rectifier)


HORN:
-Distress help signals-constant sound, side arms waving, orange/any upside down flag w/black center, flashing ever second white light.
-Overtaking/crossing a close vessel-signal intent: 1 Short(1 sec.) horn to pass on their right(starboard) side, 2 Short horns to pass on their left(port) side, Only proceed If the same signal is returned. 3 Short horns if backing up.
-Head-on vessel is close-move-stay to your Right(starboard) side-Otherwise stop/slow till the vessel passes.
-Crossing vessel is close-allow the vessel to the Right(starboard) has the right-a-way, allow it to proceed first.
-Give way to close sailing vessel Or if directed to by another vessel.
-Obscure corners-


*Label:
Engine Hour-Age Meter
Ignition Off to Stop




SPEED GAUGE:
Driver: 16+ & Sober!
40mph CO Speed Limit
Plug in & Pump Auto!




Tank fill neck label:
ADD TC-W3 2 cycle
Oil @ 50:1 w/Gas
30 Gal. Capacity


Underway: Bulge Plug In-Pump On Auto, Squeeze Fuel Bulb


START ENGINE:
-Primer fuel Bulb-pump it.


-Water pump check functioning-tell-tale water peeing out of the exhaust housing idle relief.


-Engine area-no one in the water.
-Co-pilot-designate someone to help navigate and all surroundings.
-Boat occupants Not allowed on edges of boat while running or other unsafe position.




TRIM GAUGE:
TRIM Up: Planing
Down: Trolling
UP FULL: Trailering


PYLON LABEL:
PULLING/TOWING PEOPLE BEHIND THE BOAT:
-When tubing, Never use the ski/wakeboard pylon, instead use the heavy duty stern transom eye-hooks with a Y rope and line floater to avoid prop entanglement and be careful, and Never pull more than one item at a time, people hitting each other can cause serious injuries! If multiple people are on one tube, they should wear helmets!
-Never back up-to avoid prop suction-entanglement with rope.
-Rope type & lengths: loops on both ends, low stretch-is all round best(well strong enough for tow weights but will break if caught on something), 50'-60' good for towables, 60'-75' wake-board/ski w/handle, >26' wake-Surf.


LABEL:
When TOWING:
Stern Hooks=Tubing
Pylon=Boarding & Ski


-Let swimmers know never to get in the boat with the engine running, but to say "shut off the engine, I want to come in".
-Towing Not allowed between sundown and sunrise as well as personal crafts(jet skis).


-Floatation life vest must be worn by all being towed or in floatation device/personal craft(jet ski etc.), and they must be sober. Under 13y.o.(under 6y.o. can't be towed.) must wear a life vest At-All-Times even in the boat.(Inflatable vests have use restrictions). Fluorescent green(or orange) are seen best.


LABEL:
LifeVest Must be ON:
If: Under 13 y.o. Or
6+ y.o. Being Towed


-Must always have a designated observer sitting backwards watching those pulled and in charge of displaying downed orange or red flag* when needed.
Also observer is in charge of the rope, will make sure rope is away from prop, yell "rope not clear" when needed and pull the rope in when needed.
-Stay alert and well clear of obstacles for the towed.
-Drive Counter-clockwise-Unless returning to pickup someone/equipment downed. Drive to maintain constant visual of person(s)(keep swimmer on the driver's side).


*When someone is in the water or downed, Must display an orange or red flag at least 1’ sq.. Downed must maximize their awareness and visibility for safety.
-Shut off engine whenever a swimmer is near.


LABEL:
Towing Observer:
Displays Downed Flag
Watch Rope & Traffic


-Scuba diving-must display red-white flag within 100 feet of diver, boats not involved, must avoid this zone. Boats involved with the diving operation must separately display a meter tall blue-white flag.
-Cliff/rock diving/jumping is Not allowed.


FISHING(license valid April 1-March 31)(max 3 hooks per line, second rod requires additional fee)(cleaned/filleted fish on boat Not allowed)(check website for fish min size and max bag count limits):
-License required(Not needed June 2&3 or under 16, only $1 for 64yo+), not allowed around boat docks.


-Push away from dock when leaving!


Buoy meanings?


*Label:
NEVER disconnect batt. W/engine running!
Disconnect battery: Before FAST charging OR when STORING boat.
Dead Battery: Do NOT start While Jumping OR Use pull rope to manual start.
If overheat horn sounds-stop engine!


Tow pylon only for light ski/wakeboard
Use stern hooks for tubes and other pulls
*Label:
Pylon Only for Light Ski/Wakeboard
Use Strong Stern Hooks for Tubes etc.



---

Bow-Down(plowing), in Rough water-provides the best acceleration and ride BUT increases chance of big waves coming over bow could sink boat!
Bow-Up(planing), with speed and by raising the trim up(but not to the point of boat bobs up and down or prop blow/spin outs(breaking free of the water) provides the best speed, mpg and driest ride. There is less stability and there can be greater high-throttle steering-pull/torque.
-During hard turns, avoid prop blow/spin outs by reducing speed and/or trim.


-ROUGH/STORMS:
Don’t boat in high winds
Thunderstorms & Rough winds/water, if there’s still time before it really hits:
Bulge on FULL, install bow cover, trim/keep bow up to avoid taking on water waves on bow. Maneuver considering the waves movement, find what works best. Move to dock and disembark boat.
Otherwise drop anchor, possibly in a cove. For lightning: lay down low, remove jewelry, disconnect all power, avoid touching any metal.


Note 5 is:
===
BOAT THINGS TO BUY/REPAIR:
-
THINGS TO DO/THINGS TO FIX:


Note 6 is:
===


COMMON SYMPTOMS/PROBLEMS (also see "MAINTENANCE/ADJUSTMENTS”):


---


Warning! If cranking/running with a spark plug wires disconnected, you Must Either: Ground the plug wire(s), Or w/ignition Off-manually jump crank starter Or unplug at top of engine, both power packs signal connectors.
Otherwise the power pack or charge diode may be damaged! So Never pull off a plug wire while engine is running!
Warning! Never disconnect battery while engine is running to avoid damage to the Rectifier and/or Regulator damage.
Warning! Never reverse polarity of battery or jump start cable connections to avoid Rectifier damage. Turn off the other vehicle’s engine/charging system Before connecting and during jumper cables use.
Warning! Never connect a high power/fast charger to the battery while it is connected to the boat electrical system or Rectifier damage will occur. Or while jump starting or Regulator damage will occur.
-
Sneeze - a lean intake condition - usually caused by improper carb adjustment or a bad gasket somewhere in the intake side of things. Or a stuck open recirculating check valve or disconnected recirculating hose.
Pop-consistent - usually caused by an exhaust leak or a bad powerhead base gasket.
Cough - a timing issue resulting in a (backfire) that either comes back into the intake or out through the exhaust.
Spit - that's the water coming out of the tell-tale (pee-hole, pisser, etc) or the exhaust relief holes in the exhaust housing OR gasoline mist being thrown out of the mouth of the carb due to broken/chipped reeds.
---

CONTINUED

[JIMTMCDANIELS]

Post 4 of 5:

-Tilt cylinder is not working, temporary hydraulic locked-up(caused by trailering without motor weight dropped on swing locking arms) solution: access & loosen it's starboard side manual pressure-release-valve screw using a long screw driver, then manually tilt the engine as needed. p9-1.
-Trim/Tilt won’t operate, hydraulic locked-up: loosen one trim cylinder's end cap 1/4 turn(with socket spanner wrench) operate unit down then up slightly, then retighten end cap.p9-1.
-High(Top) piston ring problem/failure or sticking causing low compression(also sticking rings do not shed/transfer piston heat as well).
Under* 90 psi is concerning(75 psi for small below 25hp engines), (btw 4 stroke engines will be much higher). Use fogger to unstick rings. Inspect rings by access-removing either exhaust cover or intake, press rings with a small screw driver, ring should spring back. Cylinder’s psi should be within 10% of each other, this is more important than how high the numbers(although low numbers can indicate a worn cylinder), especially on used engines. Additionally the phase out(from 1974, completed 198)) of high octane leaded gas forced reduced engine compression ratios change with models and years. Note a few engines have low compression by design. *Also high altitude reduces readings(6,000 ft = .836 readings conversion percentage formula).
7/17/20 Compression tested cold: Cylinder #1=106 (*126.8) psi, 2=108(*129.2), 3=102(*122), 4=100(*119.62), (*adjusted for 6,000 Ft. altitude formula = x 119.62%).
​-Starter motor slow or not turning-perform a current draw test: p2-10. Or will not activate: test solenoid with ohmmeter on both red and black terminals, also pos. from ignition switch start to solenoid “S” terminal from will be interrupt if not in idle gear, or by high rpm sensor. To jump solenoid-apply pos. to S terminal, I terminal is ground. p6-18, p7-1, p7-4, p7-10.-System Charging-Volt gauge 12.6 fully charged, 13.3 charging, if higher then battery is old, if over 14.5 charging is a system problem(bad regulator)!
-Difficult to shift p7-10.
-Prop slipping/freewheeling at higher rpm's-prop’s shock-absorbing-inner rubber-hub is worn out, usually after a prop impact, inner rubber hub must be replacement asap. p1-5.
-Engine temps. running: too Cold(under 140 deg.)(Thermostat(s) stuck open) or too Hot(over 170 deg.)(Overheat Warning Horn Alarm in Shifter-Throttle box should sound, do not allow engine to continue running-especially above 2,500 rpm)(Either water pump clogged/failed(check pump tell tale water flow from under engine tray), Thermostat(s) is stuck closed(bypasses at higher rpms) or very rarely-horn temp sensor has failed) Test: Run engine at 3,000rpm for 5 minutes with engine in forward gear in water. Point I.R. temp. reading gun at metal lower thermostat housing or top cylinder and take readings, normal is between 140-170 degrees. If temp gun is not available, if overheating, a 3 second hand touch of cylinder 1(top starboard) head will be difficult/so hot, overheat horn(in shifter box) will sound at 212 deg.(lets Tan wire get ground) p8-6, p8-63.
-Worn engine wiring harness-replace(413-216-cdi electronics).


IGNITION:-Plugs & wires poor/bad(run engine in the dark & water mist wires, look for visible shorts/sparks) or connect induction timing gun and check for intermittent flashings.
-Weak Sparking plugs-Use proper tests to check spark strength.
-Engine will not run for long because spark plugs stop sparking-check ignition coil for polarity accidentally reversed during coil service. p5-4.
-Spark plugs will not spark unless removed from engine-try re-gapping timer base sensors. p-cdi electronics.
-Ignition coils ground wires corroded-poor connection, clean.
-Poor idle-ignition system, check spark plugs, synchronization for out of adjustment. Otherwise check intake manifold air leak, low compression in a cylinder, broken/sticky reed. Otherwise check air/fuel mixture(bowl fuel level, heavy float, leaking needle valve and seat, defective auto choke, improper orifice installed, sour(old/too much oil mixture) fuel. p4-7.
-Running rough, Check ignition magneto-both power packs performance. (If replacing make sure they have safety revs limit). p5-31.
-Poor idle and operation, and will not reach wot max rpm in water-cylinder drain check valve failure. Perform cylinder drain check valve syringe test to confirm p4-7 or throttle/butterflies limiter screw is turned in too much or engine attachment to boat transom is too low or replace blade with a lower pitch blade or other problem.
-Ignition Coil not firing trouble shooting,
Swap the Orange coil wire of the cylinder not firing with one that does on the pack and see if the fire moves from one coil to the other one. If it does, the pack or trigger(aka Timer Base) is likely bad. If the fire moves, swap the trigger wire for the non-firing cylinder with another one. If this moves the fire again, the trigger is likely bad. If the fire stays on the same cylinder, the power pack is likely bad. If the fire does not move, the ignition coil may be defective.
-Sparks/Ignition at wrong timing-remove flywheel nut and inspect position of visible retaining key. Keys sometimes shift, causing flywheel stator to be our of synch with engine!




FUEL SYSTEM PROBLEMS:
CARBURETOR:
-Clogged fuel filter-in pump or inline.
-Bad primer bulb causing poor fuel flow.
-Vacuum line(s) disconnected.
-Bogging down at high rpm's may be running way too rich for some reason. Clogged recirculating check valve.
-Limited high rpm-Dirty high speed jets-clean by unscrew-removing carb base brass plugs to get to high speed jets inside.
-Rough start/idle-Dirty low speed jets. Choke/Primer fuel system is leaking into engine.
-Float bowls bottom factory plug leaking gas-epoxy seal over.
-Hard to or won't start-varnish in carburetor or sticking in float needles due to engine not used in a long time(use fuel stabilizer for any storage over 2 years) and fuel will no longer carry oil and so can ruin engine if ran. p4-16.
-Engine floods when turned off-Sticking or leaking float or float seat valve.
-Fuel line quick disconnect leaking-internal o ring deteriorated-replace o ring using 2 pick tools.
-Choke stuck or not functioning test: connect one ohm meter probe to a bare engine block for ground and the other probe to the choke terminal, normal reading should be 4 to 7 ohms. Also check to be sure the choke plunger is pulled into the choke solenoid. p-6-12.
-Rough engine operation w/pop sound back through carburetor/gas spraying back out of carburetor, there's a broken reed.

FUEL PUMP PROBLEMS:
-Fuel pressure should be 2 psi or more at full throttle at upper carburetor.
-Engine surge-typically defective fuel pump. p4-7
-Lean mixture-pump diaphragms stretch-Danger, lean will score Pistons!
-Excess fuel at idle to leak into that lower cylinder that powers the pump-if pin hole in fuel pump.
- Losing rpm at high speed, lean mixture-Weak fuel pump-Danger, lean will score Pistons! Carb to carb linkage disconnected.

REBUILD:
These engines WEAR hard on the cylinders, and the alum.pistons tend to get wear from the steel wrist-pins. So you wont successfully get a new set of round rings to give you a good seal in an out of round cylinder. You want this engine to perform well, AND if it’s good enough to invest in, take it apart, have it bored to the next size(020)or larger if need be, by a machinist can tell you if its out of spec.and put a new piston KIT in each cyl. While your at it, new needle bearings, they are cheap, especially if bought aftermarket and a new gasket set. If you do it right, you won’t be pulling your hair out everytime the next cyl. blows or gasket leaks. The connecting rods and crank will likely be fine if the engine hasn't blown up.

———————————————————

Note 7 is:
===


BOAT, ENGINE & TRAILER, MAINTENANCE/ADJUSTMENTS/TUNE UP/TORQUE SPECS
(Repair manual(that I bought-not included here) pages referenced):


START OF SEASON:
-Reinstall sonar from its winter warm-storage.
-Clean cowl air filter.
-Check trailer tire's pressure.
-Inspect wheel bearings by spinning tires, repack bearing's grease(marine grade) every year(return bearings to the same wheel), replace any seals or caged bearings and race set that show wear(cracks, heat marks, nicks, pitted, rusted).
-Lightly Oil the Starter Motor pinion gear and shaft.
-Lightly Oil carb's butterfly shaft ends.
-Top off dextron hydraulic trim fluid.
-Visually check around and under flywheel for loose connections/components or indications of electrical system problems.
-Battery-sand paper connections, check voltage should be approx. 12.6v. Top off any low cells with distilled water(if needed, charge battery First).
-Check Transom for wood rot-with engine in tilt, standing on cav.itation plate, bounce up and down, there should be No flex of the transom. Use a large screw driver handle to tap all around the transom, a change in the solid sound indicates a soft spot.
-Check and tighten major bolts and water seal with 100% waterproof Caulk or ReCaulk any hull protrusions as needed. i.e. Engine to Transom bolts, all protrusions into hull, etc.
-Grease trailer ball receiver.


MID-SEASON MAINTENANCE/TUNE UP ITEMS:
-Check often, the lower gear lube level and top off(using “Performance High HP semi-synthetic” lower gear oil): trim engine down to vertical, remove upper vent screw, top off level using a pump oil can. If there is water present or if level is significantly low, there is a significant leak that must be found and repaired. Replace screw(work screw seal must be replaced). P8-63.Also any worn screw(s) seal(s) must be replaced.
-Inspect hydraulic trim/tilt system for signs of leaks or damage and top off. Procedure: Tilt the engine at max up and remove reservoir fill plug and check and top off trim/tilt hydraulic fluid(Dextron trans. fluid). Replace fill plug and if the fluid was very low(may need new seal(s), cycle engine up and down 5 times to purge any air bubbles and check and top the fluid again. 25 Oz system cap.(740 ml). Torque tilt tube nut to 25 ft lbs, then back off 1/8 to 1/4 turn. p9-1,9-8.
-Remove all spark plugs and very closely inspect see p5-3 for many important conditions indication/meanings. Replace every 3 years torque to 20 lbs.
-Check and clean internal fuel pump filter.
-Check all fuel line hoses and connections condition including under engine cover.
-Lubricate shift-throttle cable. P8-63.
-Test electrical system for an excessive ignition off battery current draw. Place the shift-throttle in the neutral position. Disconnect the wires to the neg. battery post and connect a meter(set to the highest amp range setting) probe to the neg. battery post and other probe to the neg. wires. Reduce the meter amp setting one step at a time until you finally see a reading. If you do not see a reading over 10ma, there is no problem no parasite accessory draw.


STORAGE/END OF SEASON (also see "MAINTENANCE/TUNE UP/OCCASIONAL ADJUSTMENTS):
-Remove sonar-freezing sensitive LCD and store in the house.
-Disconnect 1 battery terminal & connect solar charger.(NEVER Fast charge battery while still connected to boat wiring or magneto damage will occur!).
-Situate the tires on wood(so tires are Off rot-promoting dirt) and spray tires with a tire protection.
-Inspect prop including it’s replaceable edge’s 4” exhaust diffuser-ring & skeg for any damage(nicks/bends/warps), especially if there is vibration in use. Remove nicks/bumps using file/drumel/Emory cloth, for other damage, take it to a prop shop.
-Remove prop(first for safety, disconnect spark plugs), Closely look for and remove any fishing line/entanglements and inspect the shaft bearings seal-for leaks. Add grease or gasket sealer to the shaft splines before reassembly. p8-2.
-Change dextron hydraulic trim fluid.
-Change lower gear lube which some water might have leaked into, before winter freezing temps, using “Performance High HP semi-synthetic” lower gear oil(27 oz cap.). Trim engine down to vertical: Drain: remove bottom screw then the vent screw above. If old lube is milky, there is a significant water leak that must be found and repaired, if metal particles are present, there may be internal failure. Any worn screw(s) seal(s) must be replaced.
Refill: attach lube pump tube to bottom screw hole, pump until filled to vent screw hole, install vent screw then remove pump tube and install bottom screw. Again remove vent screw and top off using an oil pump-can nozzle. p2-14, p8-63.
-Add 1/4 oz Marvel Mystery tune-up stabilizer Oil per gallon to gas tank or other drugs-carbon piston rings additive.
HOWEVER if engine will Not be used next year-for longer term storage, you must drain both carburetor’s gas simply by temporarily unscrewing either side’s low high speed Jet’s passage screws, so that that gas can not age and turn into clogging varnish gel!
-Release fuel line quick-connector at engine, Run Engine(If out of water, water muffs MUST be installed and water hose turned on full And maintain under 1000 rpm), when engine Just starts to sputter, turn it off!
-Install boat & tires covers.
-Remove and Inspect spark plugs dry and powdery with no deposits is normal & gap @ .030" Otherwise conditions can tell so very much see p5-2!
-Oil one drop to carb's butterfly's shafts ends.


CONTINUED

[JIMTMCDANIELS]

Post 5 of 5:


ONE-TIME WHILE-BOATING ADJUSTMENTS:
-Minimum-Trim stop pin-setting(5 holes) procedure(a required-one time adjustment):
1. Move pin to lowest hole setting and lower engine. Make a trial run by accelerating gradually to full throttle and noting the boat's performance characteristics.
2. If the bow down position results in so much "plowing" that directional stability is adversely affected, the angle adjusting rod should by moved out one hole and the trial run repeated until the best minimum trim angle is found.
-Check for steering pull with hands off wheel, at average cruising speed after trim for best speed. If steering pulls, turn engine off, adjust the prop's and stabilizer's Trim Tabs trailing edges in the direction of the pull to remove pulling, recheck.
-Engine height to transom adjustment(3 bolt settings): for best performance/speed, when at proper setting, boat at cruise(ideal mpg plane): engine "cav"itation/stabilizer plate should be just out of the water surface(getting splashed but not in-dragging) but not so high that the engine prop blow/spin outs, except on Hard turns.
-Prop ratio-Bite(Size and/or Pitch) performance: if boat at WOT is not in rpm spec.(4,500-5,500), rpm too low(over-bite is lugging the engine) is worse than too high(under-bite allows over rpm wot power band).
Under-Bite: might get right to plane But require more rpm to obtain cruising speeds and engine will over rev.
Over-Bite: harder to get to plane, plus engine will not obtain WOT rpm Even when empty and in calm waters, cause lugging(can significantly shorten the engine life) although an engine problem might cause the same effect.
Prop changes: such as prop shop bite-cupping change. If poor acceleration hole-shot(min. time-to-plane), consider drilling precise exhaust-ventilation holes in the prop outer-shell(allows exhaust into the prop during heavy throttle up so the rpm's raise faster), although may reduce mpg and cause poorer performance in rough open seas. p1-6, p1-7.
Each increase in pitch or cup decreases wot rpm approx. by 200.
Target lower wot range for stronger hole shots, target upper wot range for stronger top speed.
A four-blade prop beats a three-blade in time to plane, midrange speed and low-speed handling, but not high speed.
---
LESS OFTEN 5 Years +) MAINTENANCE/TUNE UP/OCCASIONAL ADJUSTMENTS:
-Grease zerk fittings to rudder sliders & throttle arm & spray grease other points and cables.
-Test starter drag-w/ohmmeter red to starter red, black to engine block and crank, reading should be 9.5 V or higher.
-Check That No after market transom mounted sensors are close enough to cause disturbance(ventilation) to the prop’s water in stream. p1-5.
-Test trim/tilt hydraulic system motor amp draw and movements time against chart p9-10, make any repairs as needed.
-Adjust carburetors butterfly valves linkage to match each other's open and closed positions.
-Synchronize engine fuel/ignition systems then adjust carb. (Timing advance: 4-6 btdc @ idle, 28 btdc @ full throttle 5,000 rpm, then adjust idle in forward gear to 650(1,050rpm out of water) rpm).0.010” clearance between cam and cam contact roller. Much more info @ ref. p4-16
-Synchronization-wiring polarity check(p5-4 with engine running, attach voltmeter pos to a good ground, and touch neg to a spark plug hex base, if reading is neg-backwards, then polarity is backwards and must be corrected).
-Test hi-engine-temp horn alarm in shifter box by grounding tan wire on port side of engine.


MAJOR/LESS OFTEN NEEDED/OVERHAUL:
-Reeds-Test for broken reed-with engine running-hold a business card 2" in front of carburetor, a fine mist is good on card-but if fuel appears rapidly on card, a reed is broken causing back flow(removal may require new gaskets).
Visual Inspect for broken reeds and find the piece(may require heads removal). Broken reed may be caused by distorted reed stop-best to replace entire reed and box then. Measure reeds gap, clean reeds. p3-8.
-Remove and clean bypass covers(new gaskets needed?).
-Remove and clean outer and inner exhaust covers(screws may be rusted or break)(new gaskets?).p3-10
-Float adjustment in carbs-should be parallel to carburetor.
-Anode gear-case external block-Inspect/replace sacrificial water-rusting protection 1”x1.5”x1.5”(composition for boating water: Zinc(Salt), Aluminum(Brackish Salt-Fresh), *Magnesium(*Fresh)), if more than 50% has eroded. Sand/Wire brush contact surface and Never paint over anode.
HEADS:
-Remove heads & clean carbon from pistons and cylinders and inspect/replace water diverter tubes(use 4-3/8" double wall fuel line) clean water passages and consider replacing the thermostat, circular sand paper the heads while flat on a table.
-Power Head O-ring seals-replace. p3-12.
-Bearings-replace any that are worn.
-Starter motor should be reconditioned(new brushes,reoiling etc) every 10 years. p6-18.


REPAIR SPECS/TORQUE-ENGINE SPECS:
-99.6 cu in(1.63 liters), Stroke 2.588, bore 3.5, piston to cyl clearance .0045 to .0075


-TORQUES Ft-Lbs (x12 for inch lbs conversion)(Aluminum Parts-Never over tighten!):
Exhaust cover 5.5 Ft-Lbs, inner manifold 17 Ft-Lbs.
Flywheel nut 100, connecting rod bolts 42, cylinder head bolts(1/2” socket) 19(Re-check-torque after an run engine heat cycle), main bearing bolts 28, crankcase head bolts 7, spark plugs holes/mount plate bolts(7/16” socket) 70 In lbs., spark plugs 20, prop uses 1 1/16" big socket.
Reed boxes(install in exact same positions!).
-SHIFT ROD HEIGHT-measure from the top of gear box to the middle of the shift rod hole. V-4 (other source says)
1979-81 - V-4 model in neutral (L, not XL model) 21-27/32” (21 5/16"), Or screw rod in 7 full turns.


-TUNE-UP SPECS:
-Idle 650 rpm in gear(1,050 out of water), throttle pickup 4-6 deg. BTDC(+ for high altitude 1/2 degree for each 1,000 ft in elevation), Max Advance 28 deg. @ Full Throttle 5,000 RPM(+ for high altitude 1/2 degree for each 1,000 ft in elevation).
Carbs jetted with optional orifices sizes: Low-29M, High-65C recommended for high altitude use between 3,000-6,000 Ft. For LOWER Elevations: Must rejet for lower altitudes to avoid lean run engine damage! (0-3,000 Ft use L.25M & H.67C, for 6000,-10,000 Ft use L-33M & H-63C). High speed jet regulates air, Intermediate jets require no change regardless. Retard both timing settings 2 degrees!


-Wiring diagram see apex a-22 p398.
-Hose diagram see apex a-14 p390.
NOTES:
-Use 3M 5200 sealant around on all boat bolt hull protrusions, 4200 for general underwater non-protrusion caulking(or other suitable marine sealants).
-Use plumbers play dough epoxy to fill any unwanted holes.
-Always use permatex on fuel line fittings.
-Never rotate the engine Counter Clockwise or damage to water pump impeller will occur, when installing new impeller, hand rotate impeller shaft clock wise to install.
-When drilling fiberglass, first reverse drill to reduce surface cracks.
-Orifice jets-installed for 3,000-6,000 Ft altitude (Idle-29M, High Speed 65C). BEFORE operating under 3,000, change to Idle 25M, High Speed 67C (above 6,000 Ft use-33M, 63C).




-------


Note 8 is:
===


BOATING DESTINATIONS INFO:(closest listed first):


-LAKE PUEBLO & Campgrounds (Large): FEES: Vehicle park-entry $7($70 annual All CO parks pass), Tent designates camping $18, dogs w/leash allowed, Swimming Only around boat or at Rock Canyon Swim Beach(no dogs), otherwise wading(feet touching the bottom) only allowed. Boat ramps inspection fully open April 15-Oct 14 5am-11pm.(55mim south)(North Marina Cafe 7-3:30pm, South Marina boat rentals)(Large water surface area 4,600 acres, 60 miles shoreline)(Max depth 135’)
Overnight(5pm-10am) slips $35.
Elevation 5,000 Ft.


-CHATFIELD RESERVOIR & DAM($7)-boating, Camping w/electric(no shade)(reservation recommended), hay & horse back stable rides($35-$68), hot air balloon rides($), showers, biking/hiking trails(26 miles), restaurant, laundry, picnic tables, grills, fire pits, fishing(many fish types), dogs allowed-but not at swim beach($ off leash dog park), model air plane strip, bird flocks(1hr 10min North-West-before Denver/Littleton CO).
Boat ramps closed between 11PM-5AM Apr 15-Oct 14.
1/3 water size(1,423) of Lake Pueblo.(Max depth 47’).
CALL GLORIA FOR PICNIC!
Elevation 5,400 Ft.


-11 Mile Reservoir-(west-first & more trees-best/ east entrances). Elevation 8,500 Ft.
-Boyd Lake State Park(2hrs-North by Loveland CO)-no swimming around boat.5,000 Ft.
-Granby Lake-Large & Grand Lake & Shadow Mtn Reservoir(2hrs 40min North-west over 2 passes) beautiful stay more than a day. Elevation 8,300 Ft.
-Blue Mesa Reservoir-largest & state park(prairie like)-(by Gunnison CO)(3 hrs)(200 Miles)(8,000 ft elevation)(Cold Rural Prairie-nope)(rent a boat-some day it's worth it). 10,200 Ft.


-Navajo Lake, New Mexico-
3 time the size of Pueblo Lake, Super Large water surface area 15,600 acres, 25 miles long). 2 Marinas, fishing, camping, hiking. 322 miles, 5 1/2 Hrs drive.
Elevation 6,000 Ft.

Note 9 is:
===
BOAT DIAGRAMS & FORUMS & PARTS HELPFUL RESOURCES:


---
FORUMS:
IBoats.com
Marineengine.com
Bbcboards.net
Thehulltruth.com
Screamandfly.com
--
DIAGRAMS & PARTS LOOKUP:
Shop2.evinrude.com
Outboardparts.com
WWW.MARINEENGINE.COM


--
WHERE TO BUY STUFF:
LOCAL:
-Curt's Boat supplies-E Platte Ave-Expensive.
-West Marine-Denver & online & great resource for how to.




Note 10 is:
===
BOAT-ENGINE TRAILER DETAILS/SPECS & HISTORY


(You'll have to put your own boat & trailer details here but here is how I did mine)


Bought boat-engine & trailer on hours on engine run time gauge.
Approx. combined weight 2,975 Lbs. Original New value approx.. Current value approx. . Comparable new boat is approx.


1982 SEA SPRITE(Boat Make) by United Marine Corp.
-Model: 1779 "Sea Hawk” Bow-Rider aka Run-about.
-Hull ID=
-Date mfg Dec./1982.
CO Park & Rec Bow ID#
-Fiberglass(more expensive & heavier But better, quieter, stronger more comfortable rough waves ride material, than Aluminum), “All-Sport Fish & Ski(Water-sports)” open bow design. Cathedral(Hybrid Tri-hull), multi-purpose hull.
(PROS: great for: lakes/rivers & stable for side to side-standing in and at high speeds, less motion sickness, harder to flip in turns, fishing, recreational, shallow waters, skiers, roomier-wider).
(CONS: bow can spray water on passengers, hull slams on choppy water, can sink in rough water/open seas(especially if waves enter open bow), heavier.
16' x 6'7"Wide (5'Beam?). Considered Class 1 size by length per CO statutes.
-1,200 Lbs dry weight(without engine?).
-Carrying capacity 8(6 comfortable fun) persons But no more than 1,050 Lbs.
-Top speed approx. 35 mph(30 Knots: 1 mph = .869 Knot) @ 5,300 rpm (wot max Horse Power@ rpm 5,000).
Approved WOT rpm range 4,100-5,550(Do NOT Exceed!) attained with proper sized prop.
-Boat empty weight 1,950 Lbs.
-Battery-12v deep cycle at least 70 amp hr, pos post on closest left side, small wing nut connectors.
-Bimini fabric on stainless steel frame, snaps 5/8” (aka 24) size (SS is not necessary).
Gas Tank Aluminum 30 Gallons(240lbs) 50”x19”x8"-average deep.
-Detmar rack and pinion steering helm.
-Ignition fuse ATM 5 amp, 3-20 amp fused, 2 relays(4RD 960388-12), 20 amp fuse above engine.
-AquaVibe SP3 | AM/FM Bluetooth Waterproof Compact Marine Stereo Receiver (25Wx4).
*NOTE: Radio does draw some power for memory(16 milliamperes) so disconnect at battery for winter storage).
-2' Draft(Min. Water depth needed).
-Anchor rope(aka rode)(1/4" or thicker-Nylon(sinks)-braided better than twisted, is ideal w/galvanized chain attachment to anchor(Rolodex mfg. Navy 15Lbs. Muck/Sand/weeds bottoms)) 30'.
-Fender 2(bump absorbers) ropes 1/4".
-Water skiing rope polypropylene(floats) is best 60'.
—Gauges(all round faced):
-Rpm - 7000(5,500 max.) 3” 4 wires w/bulb.
-Mph - 45max 3” aqua meter Inst. corp. cracked glass, 2 light wires & 1 hose.
-Trim/Tilt - 2” 4 wires w/bulb.
-Fuel - 2” -new 2 wires, w/bulb.
-Volts - 2” 8-18v 2 spade connectors no bulb option.
-Hours Run- 2" gauge.
-1/2” NPT drain plug.
-Bimimi top replaced 6/2020 Canvas Duck 600 Denier Polyester 13 oz UV Urethane coating, polyester threaded.
-Fish finder Radar Lowrance X47(2004? Model year) manual: https://www.manualslib.com/manual/293089/Lowrance-X47.html
-BOAT COVER:
11/24/20: Walmart $255 Budge 1200 Denier Center Console V-Hull Boat Cover, Waterproof, Premium Outdoor Protection for V-Hull Boats, Size BTCCV-5, 18’-20’, very good fit....although 1 size shorter may fit best.
10/1/17:
Used covers rated size “model E” (20-22 Ft Long x 100 In Wide Beam), Harbor Master 600 or more Denier Polyester gray, Walmart #550484905, a bit too long.


-


--ENGINE:
-1980(same designs thru '85)-EVINRUDE (aka OMC - Johnson or Quiet rider)140HP(@ 5,000 rpm,@powerhead, 120HP@prop-1985+ current modern rating system).
S=“Sport”(Max Top End Performance & SS Prop), PT/T(Power Trim/Thumb switch).
2 cycle(greater weight to power & can run on older fuel, compared to 4 cycle) V4 90 degree, 99.6 c.i. (1.632 Litre)
Heavy Duty V6 main bearings, Nitro Series Gear case, 20” shaft, Gear Ratio 13.26?, Salt Water Engineered. Engine MSRP $3,580.
-Model # E140TRLCSA.
-Serial # .
-Shaft length 20".
-Weight 325 LBS.
(Cross-flow(-charging)(=better low end torque, smooth Idle/low speed trolling, high mpg, but not quite as quick or high revving as the racing looper design that became popular with these engines in the later 1980's).
-2 double barrels carburetors(type 3), (with optional 5,000 Ft target altitude use) jet orifices sizes installed: Low-Idle Air-30M, Intermediate 29M(no change recommended by OMC), High speed 65C (L & H Must be change back to 25M and 67C to avoid major damage operating under 3,000 Ft).
Capacity discharge flywheel ignition magneto. Electric starter motor (#0389954 CCW 10 tooth pinion).
-Max. RPM 5,500 @ W.ide O.pen T.hrottle in water with average load. Gear Ratio 13.26?, 20” shaft.
-"Power Pilot - hydro Trim & Tilt Sporting Style" mechanical shift box with warm up revv. lever and electric hydraulic power tilt-trim controls w/Electric pump motor .p7-10.
-50:1 (2%)(1 pint oil per 6 gal. Gas.) 2 cycle Marine oil to gas mixture(use XD-30/TC-W3 oil).
-Lower Gear oil cap. 27 oz.
-Electrical:
-Engine alternator(aka “charge stator”) 9-10 amp(173-3672) and power packs for ignition spark. p6-15.
-Spark plugs: don't use original surface (no)gap plugs are only for heavy full throttle use (Q)L16V or worse UL77V -but gives poor idling) Instead use gapped plugs for better idling & trolling/cruising-(if motor is not over propped) Champion (Q)L77JC4 gap at .30", torque 12 ft lbs.
-Sea-Ray classic-senior Hydrofoil stabilizer horizontal-prop-FIN w/adjustable steering pull trim tabs. Gives faster/lower speed planing(front of boat lifted off parallel to water w/engine trimmed parallel to water), reduces porpoising & bow rise, less leaning and prop cavitation/spin in turns, and better mpg, slight reduced top speed and but not ideal for rough open seas or sea weed.
-3/4” hose bulge pump-5 amp-800 GPH.
-Prop-Aluminum 3 blade, 391198, 13 3/4 x 15P, 13 spline-Prop specs: Aluminum 3 blade, p1-7.
3/8” fuel line to primer bulb


TRAILER:
-LIC. PLATE .Exp
-1982 SHORELANDR.
-Frame Model R24CA mfg date 9-16-81 Custom Roller(can release in shallower waters-more expensive)3" x 5" square steel.
-VIN#
-17" is the ideal level height to ball base for the best hitch weight calculation.
-Max. 3,500 Lbs & 300 Lbs channel tongue, 2” ball coupler.
-700 Lbs empty approx.
-Tires Size ST205/75-14 (original size not available:7.00 - 14 LT) 45 psi Load range C or above. New Walmart tires installed 2/'19, 27" tall x 7 1/2" deep-for tire covers, 19' x 8' Wide.
-Hub dust caps-uses Ford 1” & 31/32” ID Dorman 13973.
-23' long total & w/boat approx. 2,975 lbs.(3,200 w/gas.)
-Tongue weight ideal-SB: 290? lbs. 10%-15%(lower range is best for long vans & low center of gravity trailers although too low can cause trailer sway), is currently 178 lbs.


The End
Oh here's another tip I discovered and did:
If your state, like mine, has a reduced highway speed limit when towing then:


Find a bumper sticker, like on ebay, that says something like "this vehicle's speed limit is ___" or "max speed is ___".
Attach it to both, the rear of the boat/trailer And to the visible trailer tongue area.
This way when the driver/me hooks up the trailer it'll remind them.
Also so any road rage tailgater driver, behind you, will be reminded/educated why you aren't driving as fast as they are and deflate their anger.


Well hope your boating experiences are always fun and safe!


Jim

[fly by night]

Interesting and informative, thanks for taking the time to update everyone!

[RockOn]

Great help!
Can't thank yo enough

[dwmgg17]

This was well thought of and certainly will help anyone with no or limited experience operating a boat. Definitely a very, very good post.

[JIMTMCDANIELS]

Thank you for the reviews and positive feed back. I have updated/improved some of it.

Like on the subject of having to pee/poop, much info was lacking for a more definitive answer to the question. I've researched the subject much:

BATHROOM(“Head”)/TOILET NEEDS/HUMAN WASTE DISPOSAL:
-“Go just before you go” to reduce needing to go pee/poop while on a boat, even if it does have a toilet.


SEWAGE(“Black Water”) RELEASE INTO WATERS OF THE USA LAWS(Short overview-see laws for more details):
Releasing pee/poop into navigable(boating) waters, is criminal in a: Freshwater Lake/Reservoir/other impoundments, whose entrance and exit points are too shallow to allow the vessel through/Rivers that do not support interstate traffic of the vessel/N.o D.ischarge Z.one.
Also releasing in ocean/sea is criminal at under 3 n.autical m.iles from the shore, unless treated with the proper Type 1 or 2 USCG Certified M.arine S.anitation D.evice treatment system.
Vessels with installed toilets(not portable), if Not always further than 3 n.m. from ocean shore, must have at least 1 of the 3 MSD system types installed:
1. Macerates and disinfects. Vessels over 65’; must have type 2. 2. Type 1 w/a biological treatment. 3. Typically a sewage storing tank to hold until it can be either pumped out at shore or ocean released beyond 3 nm(12 nm for large international voyage ships) from shore.
WHY:
Releasing untreated, can harm:
swimmers, town’s water supplies & ecosystems(cause algal blooms & more), especially in accumulating quantities(populous) or stagnant water.
-Urinating overboard is a very common way to fall overboard & maybe drown.
Especially if: not wearing a PFD/engaging in substance abuse/with no-one else nearby or onboard to see & render aid.
If done while in the water, it requires more straining & can cause a U.rinary T.ract I.nfection.


Alternative options(to installing an MSD toilet system):


-Portable commode/toilet: (bottle w/female funnel, bucket w/a liner bag Or a commercial product/device) for onboard & camping use. With maybe a privacy curtain. Can stow it all away until needed. Many DIY & commercial options are available. A bucket can serve a multi-purpose if boat space is tight.


-Marina typically has bathrooms & even short term FREE “Courtesy” slips. Long enough to use their restroom.


-Camp site/public restrooms might be close to shore, if you can get out & walk to them. Check a park map.


-Land Pee, & Poop by Squatting methods(same as when camping):
Walk 70+ steps(200’/60m) away from water source/trail/campsite. Bring a lookout friend if desired.
Find a discrete Bush or Rock/Tree(can also help you stay balanced, if squatting). Pee discretely. Then Poop if needed by 1 of 2 methods:
Poop Squatting(peed first):
1. “Leave no trace behind”(Now more often required by Forest/Park rules, Especially in high human traffic/fragile ecosystem areas):
Aim directly into a propped open shopping/human-waste bag.
Alternative method for this step: Clear ground debris(option-place a news paper etc. as a target & pickup aid) & aim poop there. Top with any used TP paper.
Then with your hand protected inside a shopping bag, grab/scoop up all the waste(much like you do for your dog).
Tie-closed, the used bag. Place this bag into an air tight zip bag. Squeeze air out as you zip it closed.
If it will not be disposing of soon, reduce any smell, by placing inside another bag/jar etc.
When convenient, just throw the bags in: an approved human waste dumpster-some parks provide(but never down an outhouse/vault toilet).
Otherwise, typically in a common trash receptacle.
Oddly, even though they allow untreated diapers/dog poop, etc., some local laws/trash disposal companies, consider human waste a disease spreading/bio-hazard. Which must first be properly treated. Using a W.aste A.lleviation G.elling kit meets this treatment requirement.
WAG kits(about $4) contain an outer zip bag, a little TP paper, moist towelette, and an inner scented bag w/gelling crystals which is a chemical Treatment, making the waste inert. Yet, making a simple DIY kit out of Free used food bags/containers etc., reduces consumerism’s impact on our planet.
A few parks now require backcountry hikers to carry 1 WAG kit for each night’s stay.
2. “Cat-hole” composting disposal:
Dig a 6”W x 6”D hole using a tool/garden hand trowel. Aim for the hole.
Carefully cover & pack soiled hole w/only used TP paper & previously removed soil & debris.


RELEVANT ILLEGAL IN-PUBLIC BEHAVIOR LAWS (vary by Jurisdictions-check online):

1. Urinating/Defecating (lack of nearby bathroom might be a valid exemption).
2. Indecent Exposure(e.g. knowingly exposing your anus/genitals to someone else, in a way that is “likely to cause an affront/alarm”).
3. Lewdness(e.g. indecent/obscene behavior, usually includes an element of lustful/sexual indulgence).

All of course, dependent on the judgement of the law enforcement agency/officer & perhaps how vocal any offended witness is.



Take care.

[fly by night]

My goodness, how long did it take you to prepare all that? Are you a college professor? Thank you!

[Boat4Life]

If I had read all this before buying my first boat, I would have never bought a boat and got involved in fishing/boating.....wow! Very detailed!