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  1. #1
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    2003 Opti 225 - Slow oil feed?

    Hi all, new guy here. Tons of great info I've found so far.

    I have a new-to-me boat with an '03 Optimax 225. 0T665281. Has smartcraft tach and speedo combo. Was not well taken care of so I'm trying to give it some love. New air filter, fuel filter, and plugs. Was out for a run the other day and started getting the following alarms after about 30 minutes.

    "Check Engine"
    "Guardian mode active - 65% power; and then
    "Oil reserve 92%".

    I immediately turned back for the marina and the alarm kept reporting lower and lower oil till it reported 40% and it throttled back to 5% power. I stopped, checked the reserve tank and it was about 75% full. I unscrewed the vent cap and tried to run the motor, and didn't really see it fill at all. Pulled the remote tank sender/float and checked to make sure it was not stuck (wasn't sure what the alarm was referencing), unplugged the sensor to the reserve tank and suddenly the smartcraft reported 100% reserve... started heading back in and again got the guardian error with reduced power. Made it back to my slip still showing 67% oil reserve. This time it did look about at that level.

    Got online and did some research and started troubleshooting. Found that the sender/float cap on the remote tank was leaking pressure, not sure if it was an existing issue or one I caused when I removed it. So I pulled it again, cleaned some sludge off the screen, removed and wiped clean the oring and the tank and reinstalled - no air leaks now (sprayed soapy water around the sender cap, tank fill cap, and the external fill cap, no bubbles).

    Removed the oil feed line at the remote tank and added on a spare piece of hose I brought with me that i fed into a clear bottle. Started up and oil started flowing. Good there.

    Removed the reserve tank (kept the bottom engine-side line connected), feed line brass fitting and filter and did the same thing at the other end of the feed line that went through the rigging tube. Oil flowed there as well.

    So I replaced the in-line filter and brass fitting/check valve, and hooked it all back up to the tank. Started it up and it finally filled the reserve tank.

    The problem (?) is that it fed very, very slowly. So from approx 65-70% full to overflow out of the vent cap it took easily 15-20 minutes at idle. That seems like a really long time to me... before I start digging deeper (crankcase check valve, reeds?) does that seem right? I haven't tried to take it out again for an extended run since I got the reserve tank to fill up all the way.

    I'm afraid the engine might be pulling more than what is being pushed from the remote tank. How fast should the reserve tank fill up when the vent cap is loose?

    Thanks in advance.

  2. Member
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    #2
    clean screen real good and inside of remote tank make sure oil is not gellied use DFI OIL, warnnig horn will sound if mtr if tank gets low pump is rpm controlled , does sound slow if all air was out of line, dont be scarred
    .................................................. ...the scariest thing in life is the unknown ...................................

  3. Member
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    #3
    Yes my screen did have some gelling on it, which I cleaned off. The previous owner was running "normal" 2-stroke oil, I have bought the DFI oil (and started using quickcleen in the fuel). I may take the step of removing the tank and dumping all the old stuff out just for peace of mind.

  4. Mercury 3L/4 Stroke/Verado Moderator EuropeanAM's Avatar
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    #4
    Also- really need to have the engine-mounted tank within 1" of the top of the tank when bleeding. It takes a LOT of time at idle to fill more than that.


    Dual Mercury Master Technician- for Mercury Outboards, Mercruiser and Mercury Racing at European Marine in Greenville, SC.
    Still consider myself a "Marine Apprentice" after 47 years (learn something new every day).
    Mercury Parts, Mercury Outboards, Smartcraft & Accessories, Injector Service, TDR Reeds- BBC Sponsor

  5. Member
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    #5
    Good to know. Before I spend any more time/money I'll take it for a run and see if it draws down the tank again. Thanks!

    Edit: I can only imagine what all the passers-by thought of me sitting there for so long like the thinker staring at an idling engine.
    Last edited by HS03_DD; 05-17-2021 at 06:04 PM.

  6. Member
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    #6
    I just experienced the same thing with my new to me 2003 Opti 225. Called my mechanic while I was on the water and he said I was likely done for the day and would need to replace my reserve oil tank under the cowling. Posted on line and 6 people told me the same thing. Bought part number 8M0064075 from boats.net. Installed in 45 minutes and it fixed the problem. Install was super easy. 2 on a scale of 1-10. PM if you have any questions.

  7. Member
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    #7
    tejas if that ever happens again keep you a small paper clip in your hook box cut it into a U so you can bypass tank sensor and continue on without guardian limit , happened to me one time on RAYBURN about 5 miles above the 103 on the ANGELINA several years ago ,put clip in came on back to UMPHERES got my check (BASSCHAMPS ) came on home
    .................................................. ...the scariest thing in life is the unknown ...................................

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    #8
    How do you bypass the tank sensor with the paperclip? It happened to me during Bass Champs Cedar Creek before 11:00AM. Spent hours trolling back on the TM. Had a small limit but didn't get to fish any of my good stuff. And no check...

    Quote Originally Posted by JOE54 View Post
    tejas if that ever happens again keep you a small paper clip in your hook box cut it into a U so you can bypass tank sensor and continue on without guardian limit , happened to me one time on RAYBURN about 5 miles above the 103 on the ANGELINA several years ago ,put clip in came on back to UMPHERES got my check (BASSCHAMPS ) came on home

  9. Member
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    #9
    unplug harness from tank sensor jump across wire terminals in harness black tape in place roll on , " endeavor to persevere " ( LONE WATI - OUTLAW JOSEY WHALES )
    .................................................. ...the scariest thing in life is the unknown ...................................

  10. Mercury 3L/4 Stroke/Verado Moderator EuropeanAM's Avatar
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    #10
    Quote Originally Posted by tejasbass View Post
    How do you bypass the tank sensor with the paperclip? It happened to me during Bass Champs Cedar Creek before 11:00AM. Spent hours trolling back on the TM. Had a small limit but didn't get to fish any of my good stuff. And no check...
    Let's be careful not to Hi-Jack HS-03DD's post.

    Unplug the sensor, jumper the harness side of the connector with the paperclip. Note to others: NOT ALL ENGINES WORK THIS WAY, don't apply to just any engine.


    Dual Mercury Master Technician- for Mercury Outboards, Mercruiser and Mercury Racing at European Marine in Greenville, SC.
    Still consider myself a "Marine Apprentice" after 47 years (learn something new every day).
    Mercury Parts, Mercury Outboards, Smartcraft & Accessories, Injector Service, TDR Reeds- BBC Sponsor

  11. Member
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    #11
    +1 ^^^^
    .................................................. ...the scariest thing in life is the unknown ...................................

  12. Member
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    #12
    Well FINALLY got a chance to get back out on the water and it appears that the oil system is working perfectly! Out for some runs at near full throttle, reserve tank was 100% full when I got back to the dock. Yay!

    Now I need to chase another issue that's driving me nuts. Tough shifting in and out of gear which makes docking difficult. Need to do some research.

  13. Member lpugh's Avatar
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    #13
    Idle speed to high? even 50 rpm high can make it difficult
    Thank You Leon Pugh

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    #14
    I don't think so, I can't recall what it is offhand but I'll take note next time.

    Being more specific, it goes INTO gear quite easily. But coming BACK to neutral requires quite a bit of force, sometimes so much that I'll accidentally go right past N into the other gear direction. I've been searching through the forum and have a few things I'm going to check. The throttle alone is also pretty stiff, so I think new cables are on the list regardless.

  15. Member
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    #15
    check all linkage adjustments for return operation to idle rpm
    .................................................. ...the scariest thing in life is the unknown ...................................

  16. Mercury 3L/4 Stroke/Verado Moderator EuropeanAM's Avatar
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    #16
    And if the linkage is adjusted right- need to check the shift position switch to make sure it is properly activating/deactivating.

    Easy to watch on Diagnostic Tool. Switch should read OPEN when in gear, and CLOSED when in neutral. Over-tightened shift cable securing nut/washer can damage switch (as can excessive or hardened grease).


    Dual Mercury Master Technician- for Mercury Outboards, Mercruiser and Mercury Racing at European Marine in Greenville, SC.
    Still consider myself a "Marine Apprentice" after 47 years (learn something new every day).
    Mercury Parts, Mercury Outboards, Smartcraft & Accessories, Injector Service, TDR Reeds- BBC Sponsor

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    #17
    I'm planning on heading down today to take a look at a few things. My slip is nearly 2 hours away, unfortunately.

    EuropeanAM - is this the interrupt switch I've read about on the motor side, or a different one on the binnacle side? Unfortunately like most DIY-ers I don't have access to a diagnostic tool, so is there another method for testing? I've read that the interrupt switch can be depressed and it would cause the motor to stumble/stall if it was held down and working properly.

  18. Mercury 3L/4 Stroke/Verado Moderator EuropeanAM's Avatar
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    #18
    Mounted in the shift slide.

    Can be tested with an ohm meter- see post #16.

    remember that the engine must be RUNNING (or prop spinning) when shifting.


    Dual Mercury Master Technician- for Mercury Outboards, Mercruiser and Mercury Racing at European Marine in Greenville, SC.
    Still consider myself a "Marine Apprentice" after 47 years (learn something new every day).
    Mercury Parts, Mercury Outboards, Smartcraft & Accessories, Injector Service, TDR Reeds- BBC Sponsor

  19. Member
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    #19
    Well, tried to check everything out and I'm pretty sure it's the cables.

    The shift interrupt switch showed continuity when in neutral and not when it was in gear.

    With the cable disconnected, and the motor running, I can shift it in and out of gear at the motor with two fingers.

    I did, however, notice a possible issue... the U-shaped bracket is basically held up against the underside of the slide by the nut and washer on the top side of the cable end. They were pretty much bottomed out in the thread (washer could still spin), but the bracket end is able to sag down to where it contacts another part of the slide assembly when returning to neutral. I can see grooves worn into the part, and it does seem to catch on that. It almost seems like I need a thicker washer or a second one so it lifts the u-bracket up a little higher.

  20. Member
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    #20
    should not rub shift bracket
    .................................................. ...the scariest thing in life is the unknown ...................................

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