Well, new thermostats installed today, and new Mercury Premium shift and throttle cables... success on all fronts.
Motor now gets to 129 according to smartcraft at idle before the thermostats opened and it dropped to 118 (previously would not get over 105).
New cables made a WORLD of difference on the shifting smoothness. So awesome.
Dual Mercury Master Technician- for Mercury Outboards, Mercruiser and Mercury Racing at European Marine in Greenville, SC.
Still consider myself a "Marine Apprentice" after 47 years (learn something new every day).
Mercury Parts, Mercury Outboards, Smartcraft & Accessories, Injector Service, TDR Reeds- BBC Sponsor
So I know this isn't the original issue, but I didn't want to clutter things up with a new thread. The shifter is working much better now, but it's still catching going from forward into neutral. Here are some generic images to try and illustrate what is happening.
In neutral the U-shaped shift plate/connector sort of rests on top of some kind of block underneath the gear selector.
In forward gear, it drops slightly so it's now parallel with the block.
So when I go from Forward back to Neutral, the curved shift plate catches slightly on whatever the block of material is below the gear selector. There's a wear pattern on that block that indicates this has been happening for some time.
Is this a sign of a bent shift plate? I tried to add another washer at the top to try and 'lift' it higher but it hasn't really helped so far.
Would I be correct in the understanding that you are attempting to show components that are INSIDE the shift/throttle control mechanism?
Dual Mercury Master Technician- for Mercury Outboards, Mercruiser and Mercury Racing at European Marine in Greenville, SC.
Still consider myself a "Marine Apprentice" after 47 years (learn something new every day).
Mercury Parts, Mercury Outboards, Smartcraft & Accessories, Injector Service, TDR Reeds- BBC Sponsor
This is under the cowling. The shift cable would attach above the blue object to the threaded stud with a nut.
The yellow object would be the 883142A03 "Shift link"
Make sure that the shift cable installs on the stud, followed by the nylon (plastic) washer, followed by the nylock nut.
Secure nut (snug), then back off 3/4 turn so that the washer can rotate freely.
You should not have any binding occurirng when assembled this way, unless something is bent/broken.
REMINDER: Do not EVER attempt to shift unless the engine is RUNNING, or the prop is TURNING.
Dual Mercury Master Technician- for Mercury Outboards, Mercruiser and Mercury Racing at European Marine in Greenville, SC.
Still consider myself a "Marine Apprentice" after 47 years (learn something new every day).
Mercury Parts, Mercury Outboards, Smartcraft & Accessories, Injector Service, TDR Reeds- BBC Sponsor
Thanks, there is a washer and the nut is actually tightened down all the way (no more threads) and the washer still spins. I thought about adding more washers to lift it up higher.
In order for that to be accurate, you would have to have one of the following:
-Incorrect washer/nut/hardware
-Damaged shift slide block
-Incorrect cable (or damaged cable end)
-Stretched attachment stud or bent arm
Dual Mercury Master Technician- for Mercury Outboards, Mercruiser and Mercury Racing at European Marine in Greenville, SC.
Still consider myself a "Marine Apprentice" after 47 years (learn something new every day).
Mercury Parts, Mercury Outboards, Smartcraft & Accessories, Injector Service, TDR Reeds- BBC Sponsor
Thanks. I'm thinking it's the arm or the stud on it. The cable is new (Mercury brand) and I'm fairly confident the lock nut and washer are factory. If the previous owner ever tried to shift without it running (probably wasn't aware) they could have bent the arm.
Reply With Quote
