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  1. Member
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    #21
    Quote Originally Posted by EuropeanAM View Post
    May need to email the pictures to yourself first (and limit the size of each picture to under 2MB). Not too small, though.

    Did you look at the ignition timing to see if it was stable (or bouncing around)?
    Don I haven’t checked that as I’m not real sure what to do. I am attaching the diagnostic sheet that came from the mechanic. One thing I’m wondering. Before I took the boat over I had a regulator that was shot and the boat seem to run fine and wouldn’t do this gremlin. Maybe the voltage wasn’t getting high enough as the battery was charging right and operating within spec. I had another mechanic who is a friend tell me to pull the yellow stator wires when it’s acting up to see if that changes anything. E0524D23-D8F7-4464-83C5-2617AD4FB1E4.jpeg427661C4-5A55-47F4-AA0C-260B6934D9BE.jpegF4F4F30E-E93E-4CE6-B79F-11287BD8A436.jpegA6D2B531-B4F8-4E38-9EFA-12D43DD33AF7.jpegC1EEF06C-7AA2-4EAA-90E1-D90C43B9B5A6.jpeg

  2. Member
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    #22
    Also I would like to add. When running the motor in a test tank I will press the throttle to raise the RPMs and voltage will rise to right around 15 volts. It will drop when I release the throttle or hit the trim switch. I believe I forgot to mention that.

  3. Mercury 3L/4 Stroke/Verado Moderator EuropeanAM's Avatar
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    #23
    Did you replace the coil, plug wires, and the REGULATORS? (always replace Regulators in PAIRS on dual-regulator models, as well as replacing any damaged, burnt, browned, blackened or otherwise compromised bullet connectors).


    Dual Mercury Master Technician- for Mercury Outboards, Mercruiser and Mercury Racing at European Marine in Greenville, SC.
    Still consider myself a "Marine Apprentice" after 47 years (learn something new every day).
    Mercury Parts, Mercury Outboards, Smartcraft & Accessories, Injector Service, TDR Reeds- BBC Sponsor

  4. Member
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    #24
    Quote Originally Posted by EuropeanAM View Post
    Did you replace the coil, plug wires, and the REGULATORS? (always replace Regulators in PAIRS on dual-regulator models, as well as replacing any damaged, burnt, browned, blackened or otherwise compromised bullet connectors).
    Yes sir he replaced it all. Regulators where replaced as a pair. All burnt bullet connectors was replaced as well.

  5. Member
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    #25
    you have access to another ECU ???????
    .................................................. ...the scariest thing in life is the unknown ...................................

  6. Member
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    #26
    Quote Originally Posted by JOE54 View Post
    you have access to another ECU ???????
    Joe I do not. The ECU was sent and repaired by Simon when I had the initial problem with drivers being out. That helped resolve my no plane issue. It is still under warranty so I could maybe send it back to them if I had an idea it was bad. The ECU read good on the diagnostics sheet I posted a picture of. But who knows at this point.

  7. Member
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    #27
    dont know anyone that has even a 200 or 175 borrow just for a test ??????
    .................................................. ...the scariest thing in life is the unknown ...................................

  8. Member
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    #28
    Just for fun you could disconnect both regulators uplugging the bullet connecters and tape up ends good with electrical tape . With your starting battery at full charge take your boat out and drive it up to rated RPM and see if the problem is gone . This will prove or disprove whether the charging system is the source of the problem due to high output voltage or shorted diodes in the rectifiers sending a noisy voltage to the EFI causing problems .

  9. Member
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    #29
    Quote Originally Posted by kls2020 View Post
    Just for fun you could disconnect both regulators uplugging the bullet connecters and tape up ends good with electrical tape . With your starting battery at full charge take your boat out and drive it up to rated RPM and see if the problem is gone . This will prove or disprove whether the charging system is the source of the problem due to high output voltage or shorted diodes in the rectifiers sending a noisy voltage to the EFI causing problems .
    Good idea! I will try this next time I’m at the lake which will be soon I hope. I got kids that are ready to fish! I’ll let you know the results.

  10. Mercury 3L/4 Stroke/Verado Moderator EuropeanAM's Avatar
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    #30
    Check one more thing before you head out this time:

    -Disconnect one of the battery terminals

    -On the Starter Solenoid, locate the larger RED wire terminal (same one the battery cable connects to). Loosen the nut, remove all rings/lugs, and clean the terminal, lugs and rings.

    -Restack these taking care to make sure that the nut secures them tight enough that they cannot be rotated on the solenoid's stud.

    -Reconnect battery (properly) and see if the condition persists.


    Dual Mercury Master Technician- for Mercury Outboards, Mercruiser and Mercury Racing at European Marine in Greenville, SC.
    Still consider myself a "Marine Apprentice" after 47 years (learn something new every day).
    Mercury Parts, Mercury Outboards, Smartcraft & Accessories, Injector Service, TDR Reeds- BBC Sponsor

  11. Member
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    #31
    Quote Originally Posted by EuropeanAM View Post
    Check one more thing before you head out this time:

    -Disconnect one of the battery terminals

    -On the Starter Solenoid, locate the larger RED wire terminal (same one the battery cable connects to). Loosen the nut, remove all rings/lugs, and clean the terminal, lugs and rings.

    -Restack these taking care to make sure that the nut secures them tight enough that they cannot be rotated on the solenoid's stud.

    -Reconnect battery (properly) and see if the condition persists.

    Will also do this. I appreciate everyone giving me advice on what to try. Thanks everyone!

  12. Member
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    #32
    I have a 98 200 efi and have the exact same issue have you had any luck?

  13. Member
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    #33
    Quote Originally Posted by Wellcraft98 View Post
    I have a 98 200 efi and have the exact same issue have you had any luck?
    Going to run it this week after the holiday so all the boat traffic will be a little calmer. I sent you another PM also.

  14. Member
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    #34
    Ok guys here’s the update.

    Went to the lake yesterday and disconnected the regulators and the boat would not run. It would just chug and hardly any power. I also hooked the red wires back up and tried with no success as well as hooking up only yellow wires with no luck either. Still just chugged and no power. I hooked everything back up and moved all of my accessories to the cranking battery to see if more voltage was being used if it would correct the issue and it did not. However on my depth finder the voltage while getting on plane when the issue was happening would be 14.5 volts and wouldn’t move. Hitting the trim brought it down to 12.5 volts and that’s when it runs right.

    Bad news is when I was testing it again the boat completely stalled and would not restart. When I turn the key I can’t hear the Fuel pump running at all. The motor just cranks and cranks. Now I feel like I’ve either shot the fuel pump or the Fuel pump driver in the ECU ( I sure hope this isn’t the case). I know the ECU supplies the ground for the fuel pump. Can I run a jumper to the negative to see if the pump turns on? At this point the fuel pump will not engage, no humming, nothing...

  15. Member
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    #35
    first disconnect the - wire on pump terminal so only the + wire is there ,constant 12v
    .................................................. ...the scariest thing in life is the unknown ...................................

  16. Member
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    #36
    Quote Originally Posted by JOE54 View Post
    first disconnect the - wire on pump terminal so only the + wire is there ,constant 12v
    Joe should this make the pump engage? Do I need a ground jumper?

  17. Member
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    #37
    when you jump - post to grnd it should spin, rember remove that wire first on - post
    .................................................. ...the scariest thing in life is the unknown ...................................

  18. Member
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    #38
    Quote Originally Posted by Wildcat82 View Post
    Joe should this make the pump engage? Do I need a ground jumper?
    Joe it’s not spinning. Is this an indication that the fuel pump is toast and not the ECU?

  19. Member
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    #39
    Quote Originally Posted by Wildcat82 View Post
    Joe it’s not spinning. Is this an indication that the fuel pump is toast and not the ECU?
    Wildcat , With the jumper you placed between engine ground and the pump neg terminal removed you should read + 12 V on the red wire on the pump terminal . If you read this 12v positive there next read on the negative fuel pump terminal (with the black- red wire from the ecu still removed ) and you should also read + 12 volt on this negative terminal . This will prove continuity of the fuel pump windings . Normal resistance of this pump winding is around 1 ohm if you check for resistance instead of voltage .

  20. Member
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    #40
    12v on + terminal grnded - terminal = no spin , pump is bad , good info ^^^^^^ also
    .................................................. ...the scariest thing in life is the unknown ...................................

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