Should I get a new actuator?

[Bassmada]

Hi everyone,

I bought an 07 Ranger 188vs with matching trailer at the end of our season last year. I'm picking it up from storage today but I got a message from the boat storage saying there was no brake fluid in the brake coupler. From what I understand the brake actuator is the the model 70LP.

The mechanic doesn't have time to fix it and I think I can so I wanted to know if I should:

a) Fill the resivoir, cross my fingers and hope it works fine - I'm assuming I should do some sort of bleeding process after filling?

b)buy a new kit if I can find one.

Obviously 'a' is cheaper but would it be bad to do this for some reason?

I've worked on cars but never trailers (last boat was an 89 and didn't have any brakes on the trailer) so this new to me.

I did drive with the trailer a few times at the end of the season so its probably been running dry for a long time, as I didn't check it when I bought it. Live and learn as they say.


Any help is appreciated.


Thanks@

[CatFan]

If it’s dry, there are probably other problems. Fortunately, the parts aren’t crazy expensive and if you have worked on cars it will be easy. Only problem is the 70LP has been discontinued. I’m not sure what the replacement options are.

[Bassmada]

Thanks for the reply. What other problems do you think I will have becuase it's dry? I found a place online that has them so I'm hoping I can get a kit shipped to me. If not I found out the "new" replacement kit is at least double the price.

[CatFan]

Thanks for the reply. What other problems do you think I will have becuase it's dry? I found a place online that has them so I'm hoping I can get a kit shipped to me. If not I found out the "new" replacement kit is at least double the price.

I’d worry about stuck calipers. Depends on how long they’ve been dry, how old they are and luck.

[fort83]

Thanks for the reply. What other problems do you think I will have because it's dry? I found a place online that has them so I'm hoping I can get a kit shipped to me. If not I found out the "new" replacement kit is at least double the price.

I ran into the something similar with my A60. I ended up replacing the the whole assembly, brake lines, and cylinders. I can say after all that stopping the boat was has been very nice!

[skeeterBill200]

Just replaced calipers and A-60 coupler and brakes work good but I find the rims to be a little on the warm-hot side after about a 10 mile run, I really hadn't paid too much attention to this until now since I did this work myself. Can anyone clarify how hot these aluminum rims will get with the slight resistance the the pads seem to constantly place on discs? From what I understand it the calipers don't retract as much as disc brakes on a truck or car.

[CatFan]

Just replaced calipers and A-60 coupler and brakes work good but I find the rims to be a little on the warm-hot side after about a 10 mile run, I really hadn't paid too much attention to this until now since I did this work myself. Can anyone clarify how hot these aluminum rims will get with the slight resistance the the pads seem to constantly place on discs? From what I understand it the calipers don't retract as much as disc brakes on a truck or car.

Wheels should be warm on brake axles, especially after stopping. Even temps from side to side are important. Disc pads don’t really retract at all, so they always ride on the caliper generating heat.

[skeeterBill200]

Yes both sides seem to be evenly heated up and this morning I made a run with blocks in slide grooves and the wheels didn't warm up hardly at all. But using brakes normally it is almost too hot to touch the wheels of course some hands are more tender than others !!

[CatFan]

Yes both sides seem to be evenly heated up and this morning I made a run with blocks in slide grooves and the wheels didn't warm up hardly at all. But using brakes normally it is almost too hot to touch the wheels of course some hands are more tender than others !!

“Almost too hot to touch” is about right after braking.

[skeeterBill200]

Thanks for the replies these forums are priceless !!

[Bassmada]

Ordered the actuator kit should be here in a few weeks. If the calipers are stuck would the brakes be pushed up tight against the rotors? Wondering how far I'm going to have to go with this now, but obviously want it working properly. Would I need manufacturer specific brake lines and pads?

[skeeterBill200]

Rechecking things this morning, so I checked fluid level and it is good but when I pushed plunger with a screwdriver there is some turbulence in the master cylinder no bubbles just a waving action. Didn't see this on my old master cylinder when bleeding and pressuring it up. Is this normal?

[jb882]

Rechecking things this morning, so I checked fluid level and it is good but when I pushed plunger with a screwdriver there is some turbulence in the master cylinder no bubbles just a waving action. Didn't see this on my old master cylinder when bleeding and pressuring it up. Is this normal?

i have seen that before with mine, its working.

[jb882]

Thanks for the reply. What other problems do you think I will have becuase it's dry? I found a place online that has them so I'm hoping I can get a kit shipped to me. If not I found out the "new" replacement kit is at least double the price.

What kind of kit did did you find? A master should be all you need and should not be that expensive. I paid 145 for mine last year.

https://www.trailerpartsdepot.com/p-...-actuator.aspx

As far as other problems you may find. Your lines may have a leak and you will want to make sure your calipers are free, both the pistons and slides.

Last year i had to redo the brakes on my 2008 trailer i ended up replacing the master, reverse lockout valve, both calipers and the soft line at the axle. Basically i had to replace everything except the hard line.

[Bassmada]

Seems this is a double thread now..

Thanks for the reply jb.
That's the kit I bought. After a few phone calls I found out Tie down mfg. sold to Dexter and the dexter equivalent (70lp) is around $375 I think. I'm happy I could find the kit you linked.

How do I check to make sure the calipers are free, both the pistons and slides?

I picked this boat up at the end of the season so I haven't had a chance to dive into every component yet (focused mainly on the boat), but I'm committing to having working brakes, so I appreciate you letting me know what you had to replace. Was your master reverse lockout valve automatic?

[skeeterBill200]

Didn't mean to hack in just figured this may be similar circumstance and could help add to what to watch out for. Nothing like experience!

[Bassmada]

No worries. Does anyone know how much brake fluid I will need once I get the actuator?

[Bassmada]

No worries. Does anyone know how much brake fluid I will need once I get the actuator?

[jb882]

If you take the calipers off you should be able to get the two pin bolts out of the caliper, check and make sure they can slide free in the holes in the caliper and the piston should be able to be pushed in. If either are frozen its caliper time. Also when you put it back together, put loctite in the holes in the backing plate where the pins thread in.

As far as how much fluid. Get a quart and bleed it until the air is gone. There is no set number since each model of trailer will be different.

[DewRonInc]

It takes dot three, I bought a quart of Prestone synthetic fluid. I used a vacuum bleeder, hooked to compressor, cut a funnel to fit and filled funnel half full, bleed the one longest distant from master, about 6 or so ounces, moved to next one that was one click closer, did same until done with last one. Took nearly full quart and all old fluid had been evacuated and new is in. I am considering getting a pressure bleeder to make sure I have zero air, they work great except I have some surging, aka bounce under heavy braking, gotta figure that out. Might remove calipers and clean, grease mounting bolts, might replace calipers, will see....maybe even rotors, mine is a 2004 trailer.....