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  1. Ohio Fishing Reports Moderator omcforever's Avatar
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    #21
    May be wrong, but I think Hydraulic assisted lowers where from 1973-1978 on some motors 135-150....which called for premium blend gear oil. Just wait and let the experts chime in.

    Age and treachery will always overcome youth and skill !!

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    #22
    Quote Originally Posted by omcforever View Post
    Thats not an OMC service and repair manual. Kinda looks like a generic mix between Seloc and Clymer. Invest in a real omc manual and wait for Eddie or Fred to chime in.
    Any idea where i can find a manual? i have the seloc (not helpful) and the one i pointed out, (pretty helpful, but again excludes my exact motor)

    I really want to get it up and going again, also because i don't have $8k for a new motor + installation


    That manual is the Evinrude/Johnson outboard shop manual, 50-235 HP, 1973-1987

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    #23
    Don’t forget to go the the service manual link in the “sticky’s” section that precede your post.
    Also Try here for manuals
    https://www.outboardbooks.com/

  4. SC Club Moderator ChampioNman's Avatar
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    #24
    This manual should work, https://www.selffixer.com/outboard.m...ice.Manual.htm. The 150 is part of that family although not listed in the manual, that shift linkage is called a bell crank linkage, a little funky until you get used to working on it. Gear fluid is either Type C or Premium blend.

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    #25
    So i think i may have installed it correct, i disconnected the shift linkage and it's the throttle handle that won't shift into forward. If i replace the handle, do i have to get a specific one? Or is there a diagram of what it should look like?

  6. SC Club Moderator ChampioNman's Avatar
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    #26
    Handle isn't the issue it will be the cable connection at the motor.

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    #27
    I disconnected all shift cables from motor, and still won't go into forward.

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    #28
    Quote Originally Posted by ChampioNman View Post
    This manual should work, https://www.selffixer.com/outboard.m...ice.Manual.htm. The 150 is part of that family although not listed in the manual, that shift linkage is called a bell crank linkage, a little funky until you get used to working on it. Gear fluid is either Type C or Premium blend.
    I used the Quicksilver premium lower unit gear lube
    Last edited by DavidDiyEverything; 04-27-2021 at 08:44 PM.

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    #29
    I am wondering how expensive/where to get a possible replacement control box that would work/fit with my current motor?

  10. SC Club Moderator ChampioNman's Avatar
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    #30
    Try www.marineengine.com accessories or find a salvage yard. Dated parts are hard to find.

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    #31
    Do i need to find one specific for my year of motor or can i just buy a new one? My only concern is that my current control box has a choke and fast idle. Not sure how many boat salvage yards are in Arizona

  12. Member
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    #32
    We need the engine model number to help with the last question. Unless I missed it in previous threads.
    Also provide a picture of the current control and we can be more specific about its parts an the range of years you can look for complete assemblies.
    A new control exactly like the original of 1977 and a newer version starting in 1978 are no longer made. There are many used parts out there.

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    #33
    The model number is 150849S, i didn't have a picture of the old one, but will take one when i get home. I don't really care if it is the original, just wondering if i can replace it with a new one.

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    #34
    Ok it’s a 1978 with hydromechanical shift.
    does your control have a padded arm rest right below the throttle handle?
    does your control have a choke switch that you hold in the up position while turning the key?
    Is the key switch an L shape?
    does your control have a warmup lever on the side of the control box or on the top of the control box?
    Once this is confirmed the years of applicable remote controls can be offered.

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    #35
    No padded armrest
    Choke is when i hold key in
    The key switch is not an L shape
    the warmup lever is behind, next to where the key goes, it lifts up, and locks the throttle/drive in neutral until lowered.

    So i tried to take the old control box off, and the screw is stripped. Very very stripped and seized. i even tried one of the EZ-out removal tools, and it didn't work. Even let it sit for an hour with WD40 to hopefully unseize the screw, no luck. So i will likely have to drill it out completely before i can even consider rebuilding/replacing.
    Last edited by DavidDiyEverything; 04-29-2021 at 10:21 PM.

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    #36
    20210429_234158.jpg

    so in looking, when it was original it MAY have had a padded armrest. It certainly doesn't now.
    Last edited by DavidDiyEverything; 04-30-2021 at 02:07 AM.

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    #37
    Ok now we are gettin’ somewhere. You can use a control box like this snagged off ebay. https://www.ebay.com/itm/11476943414...sAAOSwDWFgW9Kg
    years to work from are 1978 up to 1995/96. Newer years do not have a compatible wire harness.
    your original control can be repaired but you have your work cutout for you to find parts.
    Attached Images Attached Images

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    #38
    Major THANK YOU to the pros on this forum that help us rookies out on a daily basis. Amazed daily by the patience shown and information provided to the community. Very much appreciated.

    Back to your regularly scheduled programming.

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    #39
    Quote Originally Posted by Mill Creek View Post
    Major THANK YOU to the pros on this forum that help us rookies out on a daily basis. Amazed daily by the patience shown and information provided to the community. Very much appreciated.

    Back to your regularly scheduled programming.
    Yes, indeed, thank you, but not quite done yet, still a lot of work to be done.

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    #40
    Quote Originally Posted by bighare View Post
    Ok now we are gettin’ somewhere. You can use a control box like this snagged off ebay. https://www.ebay.com/itm/11476943414...sAAOSwDWFgW9Kg
    years to work from are 1978 up to 1995/96. Newer years do not have a compatible wire harness.
    your original control can be repaired but you have your work cutout for you to find parts.
    So it doesn't have tilt, so I would have to wire that separately?

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