Can I rework handle on finished build?

[s_moore]

So my builder just got my custom to me in the mail. He accidentally forgot my rear grip measurements and it’s 1” too short to balance. Can I remove fighting butt, extend the blank, and put fighting butt back on without having to scrap the all the components?

[Spoonplugger1]

I doubt an inch will make that much difference. Yes you can hide the extension under the fight butt, there will be some extensive cleanup, the part under the grips and reel seat are harder than the guide wraps, but you can smooth it and cover it with thread. If you are using a flexible winding check that shouldn't be a problem.

[Riccochet]

I would pull the butt, glue a tungsten weight in the end of the blank to balance it and put the butt back on.

[s_moore]

I doubt an inch will make that much difference. Yes you can hide the extension under the fight butt, there will be some extensive cleanup, the part under the grips and reel seat are harder than the guide wraps, but you can smooth it and cover it with thread. If you are using a flexible winding check that shouldn't be a problem.

Yup I used the black pvc/rubber type checks. I figured I could have the blank extended an 1” and just use a slightly longer fighting butt. Any idea how much I might have in the repair at that point? I sent specs to my builder but he overlooked it I guess and I don’t want to ruin a friendship over a rod.

[harrys]

OK, a question on this.....being just getting back into building and reading this message on balance I am wondering how are you balancing the rod? I am sitting here thinking I have 7'6" blanks that weight 2.4 oz 1" of rod can not weigh much of anything. I am not trying to be a jerk I am really trying to learn something for my builds. On my last 7'6" builds I just took a 7'6" rod I had with the same weight and action that was "factory" built and measured where the handle and reel seat were on that and copied it. I also read "rule of thumb" for reel seat locations and they matched my factory rods pretty well. really would like to learn this detail.

[willwork4fish]

How long is the rod, what's the distance from the back of the reel seat to the butt, how much does the rod weigh and what are you using it for? I'm with Spoonplugger that an inch isn't likely to make much of a difference. I've got pitchin rods that are 7'6" that have 9 1/2" handles (from the back of the seat to the butt) that come in at ~3oz. An inch isn't going to make a difference there.

[s_moore]

Most of my factory rods that are around 7’ have split grip, like this one, and all have roughly 9 1/2” from start of cork to butt and all balance perfect so I was trying to have it built to those specs. I had the rod trimmed to 6’11. I believe my builder accidentally put the handle on first then trimmed the 1” so it’s roughly 8 1/4” now which is pretty darn short.

[willwork4fish]

Yeah, that's pretty short. The reason I ask what you're using it for is if it's a tip down technique like a squarebill or jerkbait where it balances doesn't matter that much. Anyway, sure it can be extended an inch. It's easy enough to do. I'd most likely just tear off the cork, epoxy in an extension and then glue up a new butt with cork rings and then shape them by hand. There's a lot of different ways it could be done though. I'd probably charge like $40.

[s_moore]

Yeah, that's pretty short. The reason I ask what you're using it for is if it's a tip down technique like a squarebill or jerkbait where it balances doesn't matter that much. Anyway, sure it can be extended an inch. It's easy enough to do. I'd most likely just tear off the cork, epoxy in an extension and then glue up a new butt with cork rings and then shape them by hand. There's a lot of different ways it could be done though. I'd probably charge like $40.

PM me and if you want the job it’s yours brother. I’m only doing it because I’ve already sunk too much into it to scrap it.