I give up on transducer placement

[BassnChris]

I have started 3 threads on shoot thru hull transducer placemen on my 1999 Triton TR-21 with no luck.

On my first attempt, I now see the error I made. I placed the transducer near the drain plug and that area
was thicker....about 3/4" 6"x6" area.

Second attempt I placed in front of that area right at the edge of the thicker 'pad'. I had to remove the battery compartment metal panel to expose livewell pump area to gain access.
Worked mostly fine while not on plane but still flakey......would lose depth at times. Always lost signal on plane.

Does anyone have any other suggestions to help me with the placement......I guess I will place a transducer on the outside....I hate to put screw holes in the hull.....but if that is the only way I can get the transducer to hold while on plane I will do it.

Has anyone successfully installed a shoot thru hull transducer that works on plane in this model boat?
Or what is everyone using?

Is there some material in the hull like foam or something?
I understand there is no wood in these boats, or am I wrong?

I never had this issue with my previous 2 bass boats.

Thanks

[Bob G.]

Did you hold the transducer in place with a sand bag or something similar and fill the bilge with water to test for the optimum location before permanently mounting it?

My boat is not quite the same as yours but I was able to mount an HB 2D transducer in the bilge and get on plane readings >50mph. I can see the depth at that speed but not the bottom composition like when at idle.

I had to remove the plate and some batteries to be able to test the transducer location on the lake.

[SteveS]

If you're trying to mount a Skimmer transducer inside, you may want to try a puck style instead. If you don't prepare the area properly, you may not be getting the proper sealing. You have to have it clean, free of oil and grease, and you MUST use water proof epoxy NOT silicone. You must also have NO air bubbles under the transducer.

[BassnChris]

I tried to use the sandbag method but was unable to get it to remain in place.

Did you hold the transducer in place with a sand bag or something similar and fill the bilge with water to test for the optimum location before permanently mounting it?

My boat is not quite the same as yours but I was able to mount an HB 2D transducer in the bilge and get on plane readings >50mph. I can see the depth at that speed but not the bottom composition like when at idle.

I had to remove the plate and some batteries to be able to test the transducer location on the lake.

[BassnChris]

I have been trying to install pdrt-wbl puck style.
I have prepared the surface, cleaned with alcohol and used the epoxy supplied with the transducer.
I gave it a turn when I pressed the puck into epoxy.

If you're trying to mount a Skimmer transducer inside, you may want to try a puck style instead. If you don't prepare the area properly, you may not be getting the proper sealing. You have to have it clean, free of oil and grease, and you MUST use water proof epoxy NOT silicone. You must also have NO air bubbles under the transducer.

[bombercraw]

I strongly recommend trying to test different areas in your hull by weighting the puck down with a sand bag and covering the transducer with water until you find the optimum position to solve you problems. I know you indicated you tried but had problems keeping it in place with the sand bag, but it will work if you have enough weight of sand in the bag and position it well. I too had this same issue with a recent install and didn't want to take the time to do the testing because it I'm an hour from the water and it a PITA to take the time to test. However, after epoxying it down in a bad spot and having to try to break it loose to reposition, I decided to do the testing with the sand bag and water. It took a couple of moves inside my transom until I finally found a spot that worked. Testing is a pain, but it's less of a headache than trial and error and having to break the puck loose and re-epoxy etc.

[BassnChris]

How did you secure it enough to keep it from bouncing around while on plane or be sure it was in same place after being on plane. I get great signal while not on plane. When I test before I tried the baggie of water but could not keep water in baggie tried Zip locks and duct tape....so I proceeded with placing filling the bilge with water but could not keep it in place. Thanks

I strongly recommend trying to test different areas in your hull by weighting the puck down with a sand bag and covering the transducer with water until you find the optimum position to solve you problems. I know you indicated you tried but had problems keeping it in place with the sand bag, but it will work if you have enough weight of sand in the bag and position it well. I too had this same issue with a recent install and didn't want to take the time to do the testing because it I'm an hour from the water and it a PITA to take the time to test. However, after epoxying it down in a bad spot and having to try to break it loose to reposition, I decided to do the testing with the sand bag and water. It took a couple of moves inside my transom until I finally found a spot that worked. Testing is a pain, but it's less of a headache than trial and error and having to break the puck loose and re-epoxy etc.

[bombercraw]

How did you secure it enough to keep it from bouncing around while on plane or be sure it was in same place after being on plane. I get great signal while not on plane. When I test before I tried the baggie of water but could not keep water in baggie tried Zip locks and duct tape....so I proceeded with placing filling the bilge with water but could not keep it in place. Thanks

You need to use sand in the zip lock bag, not water. I used a 1 gallon zip lock bag, filled it with sand and placed that over the top of the transducer puck. With the sand in the bag, you can easily form the sand bag around the top of the puck to hold it in place. Then I dropped a water hose over into the transom and added enough water to be sure it would cover the sand bag and transducer puck (you have to have water covering it to simulate the epoxy to ensure good signal transfer and make sure there is no air between the puck and the hull). If your first trial location doesn't work while testing on the lake, you can easily move the transducer and sand bag to another location and try again while on the water.

[BassnChris]

How do y'all get your arms in there to move the transducer around?

I had to pull one of the overflow tubes just to have enough room to reach back there.

I will need to leave the tube out to move it around while at the lake.
What is the best/safest way to cap/plug the overflow thru hull connection?
That is a big opening and I am afraid that using a rubber cap might not be good enough and I do not
think the bilge pumps could keep up with the inflow of water should the cap pop off.
I am not sure of the force that is created with getting on and off plane.

[Bob G.]

You want water in the bilge while testing with a sand bag temporarily hold the transducer in place. I had to disconnect the auto-bilge pump wiring so it wouldn't pump out the water.

Also had to remove the plate and one of the trolling batteries so I could reach in to move the transducer if needed. I didn't even attempt to fish the day I tested it. I got lucky as the first place I put the transducer with the sandbag worked. Dried out the bilge at home and waited for a warm day to epoxy it.

[BassnChris]

How so I mark the location of the best signal if the bilge water in it?
The transducer will very likely not be in the same location after trailering home 30 minutes.

[bombercraw]

How so I mark the location of the best signal if the bilge water in it?
The transducer will very likely not be in the same location after trailering home 30 minutes.

Once you find the best location using the sand bag as described, pump the water out using your bilge pump. The sand bag will hold the transducer in place during your drive home, especially without the water in there sloshing around. As mentioned by Bob G., if you have an auto bilge pump, you will need to remove the fuse or unplug it so that it won't kick on when you add the water into your transom to cover the transducer for testing. I forgot to mention that in my earlier post.

[mdtritn21]

There is a flat spot on the passenger side of the hull in the bilge area and that's where you mount them.

[BassnChris]

Thank you - do you have a pic of the area you are referencing? I do not see it......the only flat spot I see in the bilge is the 6x6 area in front drain....and it is thicker than rest of the hull by 5/8 to 3/4 inch......that is where I placed the first Transducer that did not work in that location.

There is a flat spot on the passenger side of the hull in the bilge area and that's where you mount them.

[bombercraw]

Thank you - do you have a pic of the area you are referencing? I do not see it......the only flat spot I see in the bilge is the 6x6 area in front drain....and it is thicker than rest of the hull by 5/8 to 3/4 inch......that is where I placed the first Transducer that did not work in that location.

I tried to mount mine in the center next to the Bilge pumps like what you are describing and it didn't work there. Probably because the hull is thicker as you mentioned. Best place I found to mount it is just to the right or left of the bilge pumps. On my TR196, there is a flat spot about 6 inches on each side of the bilge pumps, sort of like a ledge. That's where the factory mounted my original. When I tested that spot with my HB transducer with the sand bag and water, it worked perfectly.

[BassnChris]

Is the shallow depression on the left side of the 6x6 area where you placed your transducer?

transducer2.PNG

I tried to mount mine in the center next to the Bilge pumps like what you are describing and it didn't work there. Probably because the hull is thicker as you mentioned. Best place I found to mount it is just to the right or left of the bilge pumps. On my TR196, there is a flat spot about 6 inches on each side of the bilge pumps, sort of like a ledge. That's where the factory mounted my original. When I tested that spot with my HB transducer with the sand bag and water, it worked perfectly.

[bombercraw]

Is the shallow depression on the left side of the 6x6 area where you placed your transducer?

transducer2.PNG

No. On my TR196, the location where my transducers are mounted (area that works), is actually in the step area where you have the wording "Lower Depression" written. It's off center of the boat by 6-10 inches approximately, and it's not in the lowest section of the hull, however it is definitely the best area in my transom that I have found that will work. Either side up on that step area (port of starboard) is good on my boat. My brother has a Triton TR186 and those areas are also the best areas on his boat as well. I think if you try those spots you will have good luck.

[BassnChris]

And they work on plane in those locations?

No. On my TR196, the location where my transducers are mounted (area that works), is actually in the step area where you have the wording "Lower Depression" written. It's off center of the boat by 6-10 inches approximately, and it's not in the lowest section of the hull, however it is definitely the best area in my transom that I have found that will work. Either side up on that step area (port of starboard) is good on my boat. My brother has a Triton TR186 and those areas are also the best areas on his boat as well. I think if you try those spots you will have good luck.

[bombercraw]

And they work on plane in those locations?

Yes, both when testing in those locations as well as after I epoxied it in. Have you tried to test yours yet in those areas with the sand bag and water in the transom covering the puck?

[BassnChris]

Not yet. Between weather and other obligations I have been kept off the water.

Hopefully, gonna get out this coming Saturday.

I do have it placed in one of those areas with sandbag on it...ready to test.