Is this a do it yourself project? Noticed brown residue on the back of my truck and it is the actuator that is leaking. I am ok with taking things apart but have never bleed brakes before, does that have to be done? Thanks
Is this a do it yourself project? Noticed brown residue on the back of my truck and it is the actuator that is leaking. I am ok with taking things apart but have never bleed brakes before, does that have to be done? Thanks
Yes you will have to bleed the breaks
There is a opening underneath the actuator to put a flathead screw driver into and you can pump up the master cylinder that way
There are kits to do this with just one person but two people are quick and easy
Remember to check if you have the cutoff relay at the back and if you do order one with it already installed
"The handicapped angler"
I removed and replaced mine a few years ago it’s not a bad job, but I wished I would have hit the bullet and went electric over hydraulics I really don’t like the surge brakes mine is already leaking again.
Is the brake fluid DOT 3 in the Triton Marine Master Trailers?
It's not a difficult job to do. Just don't try to just replace certain parts or pieces. Replaced the whole assembly. Kits are sold with just pieces or complete assemblies. If you try to only replace what you THINK is necessary, you will end up doing it all over again. Bleeding the system is not difficult...a pain by yourself, but not difficult.
I was looking at it today. My trailer has a swing tongue and the solenoid is mounted further back on the trailer and attached to the actuator by an extension. On the new A60 actuators I’ve seen on line the solenoid is attached to the master cylinder on the actuator. Will I be able to remove that attached solenoid and if I do should I use it to replace to solenoid that I have further back?
I've changed a couple of these actuators, and would recommend you check out Eastern Marine as a supplier, they are fast, efficient and reasonably priced . The A60 actuators did not come with the solenoid, in both of my cases I used the old ones. Replacement solenoids were not cheap. When you do the job, it will be a lot easier if you completely remove the swing away tongue from the trailer, and do the work on the bench.There were a number of snap rings and plastic guides that I ended up needing, so I suggest you take it all apart first to see what you will need. I ordered all my stuff from their website and it arrived within 3 days.
Rather than replacing the entire actuator, have you considered replacing just the master cylinder and the shock absorber? They are very easy to replace and it would save you over $100. I doubt there is anything wrong with the housing so if you replaced both parts it would be good as new. Bleeding brakes isn’t too bad. I prefer using a bleeding system that hooks up to an air compressor but you can do it manually with the help of a friend.
Just replace the whole assembly. Its isn't worth piece mailing it. That way you know its all new and you don't have to pull the actuator in 3-4 months to replace another part! I have done a few, It is not a bad project. The least fun part is bleeding the brakes when your a one man. It can be done but definitely easy with two people.
I agree with Bgibson
Replace the entire actuator
I done three of these and I can tell you that if the master cylinder has gone bad its time to replace most of the parts in there
The shock goes bad the bushings get warn out the relay gets old and the emergency cable can gets frayed
Not to mention it take less than half the time and it much easier to replace the complete unit rather than trying to replace each part individually
"The handicapped angler"
I have rebuilt mine before but your just chasing issues down the road. I did the whole assy last year and and it was not terrible. You can order the unit with or without the solenoid. You.ve been given good advice
Whole assembly and not a bad job I did my brothers this winter. I wish electric over hydraulic was an option on new boats the do work better and the inevitable clunking from surge brakes. Trailers with electric brakes and no swing away tongue just fell more solid.
2020 Ranger 521L, Merc 250 Pro XS
Did mine a few months ago.. pain in the ass..
I WISH I HAD JUST BIT THE BULLET AND ORDERED NEW ACTUATOR.
Started out with a bad backup solenoid, and so I dropped $50 on one. Come trailer maintenance day we finally get that actuator out to replace solenoid and find a total mess... Bushings were gone, the mounts were cracked, piston was 3\4 rust... So now my boat was down till a new actuator came in.
Actual work from start to finish installing actuator and bleeding brakes, adding fluid etc was probably 90 mins start to finish. Only shitty part is the poor fella with the screwdriver
Go to Harbor Freight and get a brake bleeding kit (about $20) that allows you to do the bleeding by yourself in no time. Just make sure the brake reservoir does not get empty while bleeding the brakes. I was amazed at the crap that came out of the lines so I cycled almost 2 small bottles of fluid thru just to be sure a got all the junk out.Originally Posted by OverTimeAgain
George Brock
2015 920 Pro/XP
2015 Mercury 250 Pro/XS
Twin 8' Powerpole Blades
Replacing the whole actuator is an easy job. You can make it even easier by buying some 3/4 inch wooden dowel rod material. There are two 3/4 metal pins that hold the actuator in place. Measure the width of your actuator and cut 2 wooden pins to the length (slightly shorter than metal pins) . Use those two wooden pins to replace the metal pins in your new actuator. Do so by pushing the metal pins out while pushing the wooden pins in. This will allow you now to slide the whole assembly into the the tongue with pins in place that keep the rollers from falling out. Then, just grab your metal pins and push out the wooden ones with the metal and install snap rings.
As for your brake solenoid. Yes, the new actuator comes with solenoid attached directly to the Master Cylinder. I'd just demo your old solenoid and run a jumper hose from the old location to the new solenoid. Maybe you have a flexible line there already and it's long enough to reuse? I say jumper hose...make sure you buy the right material for this...it's not just a regular hose or tube. It should be brake line material.
Also, some problems people have with the master cylinder is self inflicted. The master cylinder is not meant to be "jug" full of fluid. For the UFP actuators, the cap on the master cylinder has a little "tit" on it and that's your dipstick. The fluid should be touching the end of the dipstick and no higher.
Thanks guys, all great info. I priced all the parts separately then decided to order a new unit from Eastern Trailer mentioned above. They carry a Ranger replacement, but it is out of stock and has been for a bit. The one I ordered is the one with a solenoid attached. I will see if it fits with the swing tongue or move it to where the old one is. I called Ranger Parts Friday,Monday and today only to have someone take my info saying parts would be in touch. Never heard from them, kind of disappointing.
Was nice to know you MxMike,lol. I actually had to purchase this one toady as Eastern Trailer called me this afternoon to cancel my order as they were out of stock. I searched everywhere and missed this one listed above so thank you.
I have done it both ways. The first time buying the shock and master cylinder. The last time buying the complete unit. If you have never had it apart, and it has some age on it—— you will have to drive the pins out with a beater hammer and punch.
Marshall is right, buy a 3/4” wooden dowel, cut them just a bit shorter then the pins. Insert them before you install the actuator, then drive them out with the pins
I installed speed bleeders in my calipers. Makes one person bleeding easy.
99' 201 Pro Elite
08' Evinrude 225 HO
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