Adding a Cleat

[jtrac]

I would like to add a cleat by my driver's seat but not sure if it can be done. I know the panel that houses the shift controller is held in place with some screws. I think it could be removed and the cleat mounted somewhere above it, if there is enough room to be able tighten the nuts on it. Curious if anyone has done this.

[Brewerbass]

Its a factory option, I have it on my z20. Someone reached up there and installed it

[jtrac]

I'd bet they are installed before the cap is attached.

[BMCD]

I'd bet they are installed before the cap is attached.

No doubt.

[twise7]

Am wanting to do the exact same thing but worried about removing the panel for the shift controller. Was warned by a mechanic that those screws might be the type of screws with bolts on the other side and once you remove the panel it could be a massive pain in the rear to reattach. Anyone know for sure if these are regular screws? If so, I would think removing the panel and installing a cleat wouldn't be too terribly hard.

[BMCD]

What about adding a cleat in front of the shifter? Not on the top cap. If I were to add one this is where I would want it.

Easier location for installing too.

[jtrac]

Am wanting to do the exact same thing but worried about removing the panel for the shift controller. Was warned by a mechanic that those screws might be the type of screws with bolts on the other side and once you remove the panel it could be a massive pain in the rear to reattach. Anyone know for sure if these are regular screws? If so, I would think removing the panel and installing a cleat wouldn't be too terribly hard.

I've had the screws out. There is fixed threaded insert that holds the screws, no nut to fall out. Kind of like the wall end of a molly screw. I was having difficulty routing a cable for a remote live well drain valve and thought I could get a better view but wound up not needing to completely remove it. I like the idea of mounting it in front of the shifter so I think I will get one ordered and then see where it will be feasible to mount.

[eh2000]

Why not tie off to the steering wheel?

[jtrac]

Why not tie off to the steering wheel?

I guess that would work but not something I have ever done and probably won't.

[twise7]

I've had the screws out. There is fixed threaded insert that holds the screws, no nut to fall out. Kind of like the wall end of a molly screw. I was having difficulty routing a cable for a remote live well drain valve and thought I could get a better view but wound up not needing to completely remove it. I like the idea of mounting it in front of the shifter so I think I will get one ordered and then see where it will be feasible to mount.

Great info right there! Thanks jtrac and when you get it installed please post a picture so we can see where you placed it.

[jtrac]

Great info right there! Thanks jtrac and when you get it installed please post a picture so we can see where you placed it.

I will. I ordered on Amazon an hour or so ago and it's supposed to be delivered tomorrow. The best I could tell comparing it to some pictures it is an Attwood model 66515-1.

[jtrac]

This is all I have to work with to get the cleat installed. I can get my hand in the opening and I'm hopeful I can get a swivel ratchet on the nuts. I think I will have enough space to tighten the nuts a little at a time. If not, I know I can at least hand tighten them and with a little marine silicone sealant make the cleat a decorative item.

[twise7]

This is all I have to work with to get the cleat installed. I can get my hand in the opening and I'm hopeful I can get a swivel ratchet on the nuts. I think I will have enough space to tighten the nuts a little at a time. If not, I know I can at least hand tighten them and with a little marine silicone sealant make the cleat a decorative item.

Dang, tight fit for sure!

[jtrac]

I got it in but it was a painful chore to get the nuts tightened. The Attwood has two 1 1/4 inch nuts to be tightened. I installed the cleat just forward of the opening for the gear control and I could not get ratchet with a deep socket to go over the nuts as there was just not enough room. I did mount the cleat a little lower to try to give myself clearance but it was not quite enough. I made a spacer out of 3/4 inch plywood which brought the nuts down to where I could see them but the back one I could get only a little bit tight. I put a bunch of silicone marine sealant on it so it shouldn't back off. For the closest one I was able to get it as tight as I wanted with an open ended wrench, which I had to borrow from a friend. It will work but if I had to do it over I would probably get one of the flip up types that have the screws thru the top.

[REversman]

I got it in but it was a painful chore to get the nuts tightened. The Attwood has two 1 1/4 inch nuts to be tightened. I installed the cleat just forward of the opening for the gear control and I could not get ratchet with a deep socket to go over the nuts as there was just not enough room. I did mount the cleat a little lower to try to give myself clearance but it was not quite enough. I made a spacer out of 3/4 inch plywood which brought the nuts down to where I could see them but the back one I could get only a little bit tight. I put a bunch of silicone marine sealant on it so it shouldn't back off. For the closest one I was able to get it as tight as I wanted with an open ended wrench, which I had to borrow from a friend. It will work but if I had to do it over I would probably get one of the flip up types that have the screws thru the top.

Looks great, nice job!

[AZcal2021]

Perfecto!

[twise7]

I got it in but it was a painful chore to get the nuts tightened. The Attwood has two 1 1/4 inch nuts to be tightened. I installed the cleat just forward of the opening for the gear control and I could not get ratchet with a deep socket to go over the nuts as there was just not enough room. I did mount the cleat a little lower to try to give myself clearance but it was not quite enough. I made a spacer out of 3/4 inch plywood which brought the nuts down to where I could see them but the back one I could get only a little bit tight. I put a bunch of silicone marine sealant on it so it shouldn't back off. For the closest one I was able to get it as tight as I wanted with an open ended wrench, which I had to borrow from a friend. It will work but if I had to do it over I would probably get one of the flip up types that have the screws thru the top.

Great job! When can you come to Kentucky and put one on mine?

[jtrac]

Great job! When can you come to Kentucky and put one on mine?

Looking at my arm today, no time soon. I scratched the heck out of my left arm even with long sleeves on. The only thing I have left to do is install my passenger console, whenever it arrives, and that doesn't involve repeated reaches in to tight places. So far I have installed 2 Power Poles, a Garmin 93SV and Live Scope with a dual mount bracket for the Humminbird and the Garmin on the bow, a bunch of wiring and a fuse block for the graphs, a remote live well drain, a remote drain plug, an automatic bilge pump and a hole shot plate on the jack plate. So far all that has been easy compared to the stupid cleat.

[REversman]

Looking at my arm today, no time soon. I scratched the heck out of my left arm even with long sleeves on. The only thing I have left to do is install my passenger console, whenever it arrives, and that doesn't involve repeated reaches in to tight places. So far I have installed 2 Power Poles, a Garmin 93SV and Live Scope with a dual mount bracket for the Humminbird and the Garmin on the bow, a bunch of wiring and a fuse block for the graphs, a remote live well drain, a remote drain plug, an automatic bilge pump and a hole shot plate on the jack plate. So far all that has been easy compared to the stupid cleat.

Where did you purchase the remote drain plug? Pretty easy to install?

[jtrac]

Where did you purchase the remote drain plug? Pretty easy to install?

I got everything off Amazon. I wish I knew how to post links but the valve description is Flow Rite control valve, red arm, system 1, V1, the cable is listed as Flow Rite 8' cable and the actuator is FR RK-1 actuator, M-1-05-100. If your trolling motor batteries are mounted on the plastic cover like mine you will have to take them out and remove the cover which is held in place by 4 long screws to access the drain hose. I looked at a friends Z18 to see where the actuator is installed and used the same location on my boat. I was concerned about routing the cable but with the removeable rear storage bin it was easy to to route it. I would say the hardest part was lifting those 2 group 31 batteries out.

My next project is trying to find a one way valve so stop water from coming in thru the upper overflow hose. I rarely use my live well and keep it closed when on the water but I understand water will come in thru the overflow. It must as I always have some water in it which never completely drains even if I trail it home with the valve open. If I forget to open the lids to let it dry it will get pretty nasty in there. I'm hoping shutting off the overflow will keep it dry. If anyone knows what check valve to use on the overflow hose I would appreciate the advice.