Thread: 99 Johnson 150

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  1. #1
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    99 Johnson 150

    99 Johnson 150 Trim issue

    Hello all, first time post here and new to the forum. I have a 99 Johnson 150 Jplees. The first time out when I hit the trim to increase speed it will bog like it’s lost most of its power. As soon as I let go of the switch it’s normal again. It only does it on initial blast off and if warmed up on a long run or sits in sun it’s fine the rest of the day. I have checked ALL wiring and connections in the bow trim, blinker trim and on the cowl. I have also replaced reg/ rectifier, power pack, plugs and wires, New battery. Have read on other posts about a stator problem and to look for the gel leaking from under the flywheel. Just wanting to post and get an opinion on it if someone else has had the same problem. Thanks in advance!!

  2. SC Club Moderator ChampioNman's Avatar
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    #2
    Gonna be tough to check the stator for melted insulation. It lives under the flywheel cover. Have your tried bleeding the air out of the system? Welcome to the forum.

  3. Member Mechanic Bob's Avatar
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    #3
    I would first check your cranking battery. It maybe weak and need replacing.
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    #4
    Championman, yes it would be kinda tough but manageable. No. I haven’t tried the air. What exactly do you mean?

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    #5
    Mechanic bob, I replaced battery last year in the summer with a deep cycle group 29 I do believe.

  6. SC Club Moderator ChampioNman's Avatar
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    #6
    Trim the motor down onto a block of wood. Loosen the manual release valve on the port side of the motor. Run the trim up for a 5 count if the motor tries to go up, give the valve another turn out. Then trim the motor down for a 5 count, do this 5 times tighten the valve and trim motor up. Deploy the trailer bracket and open the reservoir cap and check fluid level using a zip tie. Add fluid if needed. Repeat bleed process. If you are going to pull the flywheel cover off be gentle on the two linkage clips. They are easy to break.
    A deep cycle battery isn't recommended for a cranking battery.

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    #7
    Alright, I appreciate all the help. Will try the trim bleed process and report back. I’m probably going to save the stator as a last resort�� I was thinking the same thing but didn’t know. What battery would you recommend? Only have 2 graphs running all the time on water and aerators on timers. If I could ask, how could air cause engine to bog and drop out like that from air in trim unit? Excessive amp draw?

  8. SC Club Moderator ChampioNman's Avatar
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    #8
    If there is an air bubble in the system the motor may spin "bog" until the bubble clears almost like an air lock. Once the system builds pressure back the check valve recover internally.
    An 850 CCA starting battery will be fine for your motor.

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    #9
    Ok thanks. Anything else It might be??

  10. SC Club Moderator ChampioNman's Avatar
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    #10
    Just maybe low on fluid. If it only does it on the first trim of the day and then it is OK.

    Unless I totally misread your post.

  11. Member Mechanic Bob's Avatar
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    #11
    I think he is saying his "Outboard" bogs down from the amps being pulled by the trim motor. My opinion would be the Deep Cycle battery cannot deliver the amps to keep the motor running smoothly, right after start-up, when he hits the trim switch. The Deep Cycle battery has not charged back up from the load experienced during start-up.
    That's my two cents.
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    #12
    Maybe so. The engine bogs down not trim motor. It’s almost like something is heating up under cowl after a long run or in the sun on warmer days and making connection?. If it’s cold out side it will take a couple of times moving from fishing spot to spot and then rest of day you can hit the trim while running wot and it won’t bog. It cuts out so bad the front of the boat drops

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    #13
    Mechanic bob you are correct. Sorry about that, I’m bad with explaining problems through typing haha. I will try to get a battery that’s 850 cca like championman stated and report back. Maybe this will fix the issue.

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    #14
    Also, any specific group size I need to stay with on a 850 cca battery?

  15. Member Mechanic Bob's Avatar
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    #15
    I would let the size of the available room for the battery, determine what group size will fit. I recommend you get the largest size that will fit. Also, if the battery you can find and it is GREATER that 850cca, that will work too.

    There maybe other things going on with your motor, but I have seen the battery condition causes the issues as you have described related to the battery 90% of the time.
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    #16
    Ok so got a new battery this mornin and charged all day. Just got off water and when getting on plane as soon as I hit the trim up it cuts back and bogs. If I let off the trim switch it revs back up to normal. I managed to just bump the trim quickly and it it’s as noticeable. Fished for about 30 mins and when I took off to get on plane and started trimming up to get to top speed it was fine. It’s like something is working like it should after it gets warm. I did notice 12.4-12.7v idle when cold 13.7-14.2v idle when warm

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    #17
    Also just done a ohm reading on stator and the power wires orange/orange-black is anywhere from 99 to 135.. spec is between 50 and 60 ohms. The charge wires brown/ brown-black have no continuity at all. (OL) spec on those are 735-935 ohms.. so now leaning towards maybe a stator problem based on readings I got

  18. SC Club Moderator ChampioNman's Avatar
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    #18
    The important thing is you performed troubleshooting procedures. It does sound like a stator, don't try to pry the flywheel off you can ruin the magnets underneath. Use a Harmonic balancer puller with the bolts 180* from each other. If I remember correctly they are 3/8" you can use one of the 5 bolts that hold the flywheel to the crank to size them.

  19. Member Mechanic Bob's Avatar
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    #19
    Awesome. I think you are on the right track. Stator and Charge coil. make sure you set the correct gap when replacing.
    2019 RT 198P
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    Twin 12' BT Talons
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    #20
    Mechanic bob, correct gap?

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