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  1. #1
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    CX21 Chine Walking Question

    Took my new CX21 out for it's second run to continue breaking in Mercury 250 ProXS. I have an Atlas 10" hydraulic jackplate and running a Fury 3 24 pitch prop solid plug in 100%. I noticed when I was doing short run up on rpm for break-in process that my boat started chine walking at 66 mph. I feel like I tried every jackplate level and worked through trim ranges and always starts walking at 66-67 mph. Love, love, love the boat!! Those that described the ride as buttery are 100% correct. Any advice on eliminating the chine walking would be greatly appreciated. I am going out of a Ranger Z521 w/ 250 Evinrude G2 and never had this issue. I haven't read of anyone else having this problem.
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  2. Member
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    #2
    I am having this exact problem on the same boat and prop. Chine walk at same speed too. I have dual console and 2 guys in boat. I was able to get it to a minimum or no walk at jack plate setting 8 (0-20 gauge) wide open. I think my boat doesn’t like a lot of positive trim. Also rpm was finally breaking 6000 at 8 setting and hit 71 mph. Last weekend, I moved the third trolling battery to the driver side next to crank battery, hoping this helps a little, and also will get rid of the list to port at low speed. My new prop just arrived, Bravo1 23.5 p we’ll see how that does this weekend. I am running 3 wet cells for troller and 1 AGM Crank and almost no tackle/gear. No power poles, either. Fuel about 80%. Fury 3 24 p no plugs, but I get a little blowout on hole shot without them. Gonna plug the Bravo 1 right out of the gate.
    I’ll report new prop results after next weekend.

  3. Member
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    Jan 2015
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    #3
    I can only comment on my test drive, but my experience was similar. A little chine walk around 68-70. I didn’t go over that because the motor was still being broken in. I’m not sure there is a fix though, other than behind the wheel. I often drive a triton and have learned to drive the boat. From talking with my dealer, this hull will walk (he did say a little less than tritons, I can’t comment on that yet) and it should be expected. A little seat time will fix it. Ill be able to update when my boat gets here.
    2021 Caymas CX21/Mercury 250 Pro XS

  4. Member
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    #4
    I didn't think about the weight distribution. I ordered 3 Lithium batteries for trolling motor, but they are on back order, so dealer gave me 3 wet cell and my boat lists to the port side as well. I have an empty house battery box (waiting on Li), so I may move one of the trolling motor batteries over to that location until the lithiums come in. Can't wait to hear your results with the Bravo 1. It is one of the props the dealer suggested that they've had success with in the past. Your jackplate has range of 0-20 and mine has 1-6 with small 1/4 increments marked between. I found that it ran best overall set around 2. Anything more 2 1/2 and prop would slip on take-off. I forgot to mention that max rpm was just over 5600 at the 66-67 mph, so I know there's more. Thanks for your response and good luck with the Bravo 1!!

  5. BBC SPONSOR
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    Nov 2015
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    Ohio
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    #5
    Owning a cx 20 pro. They do walk some. Not as much as my old Tr 19, but they do walk a little. I personally do not have an issue with this, bc I've owned 2 other Triton's, before this boat.

    To me this is by far the best boat I've ever owned. Love how it fishes, rides, and runs.

  6. Member mxrcr4's Avatar
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    Jul 2006
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    Springville, AL
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    #6
    Quote Originally Posted by CX21 View Post
    I am having this exact problem on the same boat and prop. Chine walk at same speed too. I have dual console and 2 guys in boat. I was able to get it to a minimum or no walk at jack plate setting 8 (0-20 gauge) wide open. I think my boat doesn’t like a lot of positive trim. Also rpm was finally breaking 6000 at 8 setting and hit 71 mph. Last weekend, I moved the third trolling battery to the driver side next to crank battery, hoping this helps a little, and also will get rid of the list to port at low speed. My new prop just arrived, Bravo1 23.5 p we’ll see how that does this weekend. I am running 3 wet cells for troller and 1 AGM Crank and almost no tackle/gear. No power poles, either. Fuel about 80%. Fury 3 24 p no plugs, but I get a little blowout on hole shot without them. Gonna plug the Bravo 1 right out of the gate.
    I’ll report new prop results after next weekend.
    I have kicked around using a Bravo as well. Please let me know what your results are. Also, which Bravo model did you order?

  7. Member
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    #7
    I have the Bravo 1 FS 23.5" pitch waiting to test this sunday. My jack plate gauge is 0 to 20, but in inches, the plate is probably 0 to 4 inches. So at 7-8 it is about 1.5 inches up from 0. Will update prop results sunday night hopefully. Only difference between bravo 1 "FS" and "XS" is number of pvs holes. XS has 8, FS has 4. "LT" model is more for multi species boats i think.

  8. Member
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    #8
    Quote Originally Posted by CX21 View Post
    I have the Bravo 1 FS 23.5" pitch waiting to test this sunday. My jack plate gauge is 0 to 20, but in inches, the plate is probably 0 to 4 inches. So at 7-8 it is about 1.5 inches up from 0. Will update prop results sunday night hopefully. Only difference between bravo 1 "FS" and "XS" is number of pvs holes. XS has 8, FS has 4. "LT" model is more for multi species boats i think.
    Not sure about Caymas but I know with all the Tritons I have owned if the engine is too low the boat will be hard to handle, I think most of them liked the prop to be about 2 1/2 inches below pad.

  9. Member
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    Apr 2020
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    Fort Valley, GA
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    #9
    You guys realize that when the boat actually lifts enough to get on the pad you have to drive the boat. The pad being that small section at the bottom of the hull where the drain plug is. Some pads are wider than others. Either way, to get a boat to run it's max potential you have to be on the pad and running as level as the boat will let. At this point its a balancing act. slight inputs to the steering wheel to counter act the torque of the motor wanting to twist the boat to the right. So, when you are driving a boat (any v-pad hull boat) that starts to "walk" it just means you have gotten it up on the pad and now have the potential to "fly/drive" the boat to its max potential.

    Chine walk is not a bad characteristic of a boat.

  10. Member
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    #10
    Quote Originally Posted by bullet225ho View Post
    You guys realize that when the boat actually lifts enough to get on the pad you have to drive the boat. The pad being that small section at the bottom of the hull where the drain plug is. Some pads are wider than others. Either way, to get a boat to run it's max potential you have to be on the pad and running as level as the boat will let. At this point its a balancing act. slight inputs to the steering wheel to counter act the torque of the motor wanting to twist the boat to the right. So, when you are driving a boat (any v-pad hull boat) that starts to "walk" it just means you have gotten it up on the pad and now have the potential to "fly/drive" the boat to its max potential.

    Chine walk is not a bad characteristic of a boat.
    True but if the engine is not set at the correct height the boat can get really squirrelly when trying to air it out.

  11. Member
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    #11
    Quote Originally Posted by bullet225ho View Post
    You guys realize that when the boat actually lifts enough to get on the pad you have to drive the boat. The pad being that small section at the bottom of the hull where the drain plug is. Some pads are wider than others. Either way, to get a boat to run it's max potential you have to be on the pad and running as level as the boat will let. At this point its a balancing act. slight inputs to the steering wheel to counter act the torque of the motor wanting to twist the boat to the right. So, when you are driving a boat (any v-pad hull boat) that starts to "walk" it just means you have gotten it up on the pad and now have the potential to "fly/drive" the boat to its max potential.

    Chine walk is not a bad characteristic of a boat.
    I agree with this, but I guess when I say my boat “chine walks” bad, I mean it starts oscillating severely and feels like it is going to wipe out. I don’t count some side to side walking that can easily be corrected with steering input. Coming from driving a late ‘90s Skeeter that required zero input at WOT. That said, the severe instability I am seeing is mostly from setup, (jack plate, trim, weight imbalance, prop, etc.) I know this boat is very drivable when I play with plate height and trim. Just wanted to clarify definition of “chine walk”. Bad setup makes it not drivable. Good setup makes walk drivable. Cheers!

  12. Member
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    #12
    Quote Originally Posted by mxrcr4 View Post
    I have kicked around using a Bravo as well. Please let me know what your results are. Also, which Bravo model did you order?
    See new thread about Bravo 1 FS test. Cheers!

  13. Member
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    #13
    Quick update: Able to get out yesterday on a local lake and reached 71.4 mph with little or no chine walking. I added a fifth battery, so that I had 3 (trolling) on port and 2 (cranking + house) on the starboard sides. Also moved some tackle and gear around to give better balance. Still had a slight list to the port side at slower to mid-range speeds. Had 80% fuel. Found my best positioning on jackplate to be between 2.75 - 3.25 (range on my Atlas is 1 - 8). Trim was 4.4 - 4.5. I believe I could have gotten another 1-2 mph, but had to pull off due to wake from a wake surf boat. RPMs were about 5850. Again, I'm running a Fury 24 pitch prop that came with my boat. I must confess the biggest difference other than rebalancing was learning to "drive" the boat as you roll through the 65-68 MPH. Just like suggested above, I used short quick steering movements opposite of the chine motion (as best I could) and once on the other side of 68 MPH, it got smooth. Continue to be so impressed with the handling and ride.