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  1. Member
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    #41
    I see there is a Mercury/Quicksilver Phantom Black paint. I assume that's what I should use?

  2. Member
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    #42
    good choice for sure
    .................................................. ...the scariest thing in life is the unknown ...................................

  3. Member
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    #43
    Thank you.

  4. Member
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    #44
    I got all my parts from European Marine, thank you, and I am getting set to swap the head out this Friday. In doing that I was taking a look at the service manual just to go over the steps. In the steps for the fuel rail installation the first one is "Ensure there is a cupped washer on each of the cylinder head direct injector ports". The head came with the cup washers but there is a note under the cupped washer step in the manual that says "Important: The 175 Pro XS uses a rubber washer on each of the cylinder head direct injector ports". I didn't see any rubber washer in the parts diagram for my motor, it just shows the cupped washer. I've seen Don mention in other threads about fuel rails(not sure which engine now) that the cupped washers and rubber washers are interchangeable as long as you use three of the same. I just want to confirm that applies to my specific motor too or is there some rubber washer I can't find mentioned in other than that one note that I need to get a hold of? Thanks again.

  5. Member
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    #45
    use 3 that came with head
    .................................................. ...the scariest thing in life is the unknown ...................................

  6. Member
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    #46
    Thanks Joe, I'll use the cupped washers that came with the head. I have another question that I might just have to figure out myself but having looked at the manual and Silverfox's thread on removing the fuel rails I was wondering how little disassembly I can get away with. I realize in Silverfox's thread he is removing the rails to send out for maintenance so I'm not following all those steps but what degree do I have to go to gain access to the cylinder head. For example, can I just disconnect the injectors and remove the nuts holding the rail on and have enough play in the hoses to move the rail out of the way enough to get the cylinder head off. Or do I need to disconnect everything and completely remove the rail?

    It might just be I need to do it and disconnect things as needed as I go but I just thought someone having done it before might have some insight on how to keep it as minimal as possible. Thanks.

  7. Mercury 3L/4 Stroke/Verado Moderator EuropeanAM's Avatar
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    #47
    If there were 3 in the box with that head, that is what I would recommend using. That particular cylinder head doesn't come with everything (like some others do).


    Dual Mercury Master Technician- for Mercury Outboards, Mercruiser and Mercury Racing at European Marine in Greenville, SC.
    Still consider myself a "Marine Apprentice" after 47 years (learn something new every day).
    Mercury Parts, Mercury Outboards, Smartcraft & Accessories, Injector Service, TDR Reeds- BBC Sponsor

  8. Member
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    #48
    Thanks Don. Yeah the head came with cupped washers in the ports taped over to hold in place, so I'll use them.

  9. Member
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    #49
    I am just about done with replacing the cylinder head. Thank you guys so much for the help, it went pretty smooth. But I found a piece of foam on the ground to the front side of the motor that I have no idea where it came from. I believe it fell out when I removed the lower cowl. I've searched all over to see a witness of where it came from but I don't see anything. Anybody have any idea where this piece of foam belongs?

    foam.jpeg

  10. Member
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    #50
    none missing from top cowl ????? front inside
    .................................................. ...the scariest thing in life is the unknown ...................................

  11. Mercury 3L/4 Stroke/Verado Moderator EuropeanAM's Avatar
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    #51
    +1... looks like the foam that's glued to the inside of the top cowling. It's purpose is sound dampening.

    If it was loose- good that it fell out now (rather than getting sucked into the engine).


    Dual Mercury Master Technician- for Mercury Outboards, Mercruiser and Mercury Racing at European Marine in Greenville, SC.
    Still consider myself a "Marine Apprentice" after 47 years (learn something new every day).
    Mercury Parts, Mercury Outboards, Smartcraft & Accessories, Injector Service, TDR Reeds- BBC Sponsor

  12. Member
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    Mar 2021
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    #52
    Ok I'll take a closer look at the top cowl. It looks different than the other foam in the top cowl so I thought it came from some place else. I'll really poke my head in there and see if I can see where it came from.

    By the way, I completed the cylinder head swap along with fuel filter and strainer while I had the lower cowl off and she started right up on the muffs. Everything seemed good and I didn't see any leaks, issues, etc. Will get it on the water this upcoming weekend and hopefully there aren't any issues. I don't want to jinx myself until I actually get it on the water, thinking it is all set, but it is such a relief to me to have that fixed. I really appreciate all the help could not of done it without the guys from this forum. I also know where I will be buying any Mercury parts I need from here on out. The support European Marine gives to people, completely free too(outside of the parts), is just incredible. I'd be waiting weeks here for someone to fix it, so the help was invaluable to me.

    Hopefully from this point this thread is dead and I can just get on with fishing!

  13. Mercury 3L/4 Stroke/Verado Moderator EuropeanAM's Avatar
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    #53


    Dual Mercury Master Technician- for Mercury Outboards, Mercruiser and Mercury Racing at European Marine in Greenville, SC.
    Still consider myself a "Marine Apprentice" after 47 years (learn something new every day).
    Mercury Parts, Mercury Outboards, Smartcraft & Accessories, Injector Service, TDR Reeds- BBC Sponsor

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