200 Johnson stalling

[jay's snake]

Well it seems like it's getting worse. Currently, the motor will not start and does not have a spark at any cylinder.
So I got out my ohm meter and went through the tests from CDI Electronics for the ignition system.
Here are my readings and acceptable ranges for each parameter:

Scan0015.jpg
I enlarged the results so you can see the numbers easier.
zoomed in.jpg
Here are my concerns:
***Both sets of brown wires were about the same, but a little low (830 ohms). Does this mean the stator is bad?
***The white to blue resistance is way out of spec. Was this the issue when it started but had a weak spark at cylinders 3 and 4? Does this mean the timing ring is bad?
***The white to black/white has no resistance. Once again, does this indicate the timing ring is bad?

I don't have a DVA adapter, but I may order one if more tests are needed.

[ChampioNman]

Did you remove the flywheel? See any signs of melted insulation on top of the block from under the flywheel? grab the flywheel on each side and try to rock it side to side and then front to back to see if you have any wobble from the upper bearing.

[jay's snake]

Did you remove the flywheel? See any signs of melted insulation on top of the block from under the flywheel? grab the flywheel on each side and try to rock it side to side and then front to back to see if you have any wobble from the upper bearing.

Yes, I removed the flywheel and the stator does have some melted insulation. Does that indicate it got hot and is no good?
Do the readings indicate the timing ring is bad too?

[ChampioNman]

That's a good indication that the stator is bad. With the flywheel off did you check the flywheel sensor magnet orientation on page 38 of the manual. I've seen that inner sensor magnet loosen and move?

[ChampioNman]

That's a good indication that the stator is bad. With the flywheel off did you check the flywheel sensor magnet orientation on page 38 of the manual. I've seen that inner sensor magnet loosen and move?
Any scuffing on the inside of the timer base? That 0 ohms reading is worrisome.

[jay's snake]

That's a good indication that the stator is bad. With the flywheel off did you check the flywheel sensor magnet orientation on page 38 of the manual. I've seen that inner sensor magnet loosen and move?

Ok, I checked the orientation of that ring and it does not appear to have slipped. I'll probably go ahead and replace the stator. What do you think about the timing ring? What type of problem would a bad timing ring cause?

[ChampioNman]

Do them both with the same brand. Stick with the CDI and if you need to ever replace the Power Pack stick with a CDI part. Keep like alike. Gonna be a tough pill to swallow but sometimes you gotta do what you gotta do.

[jay's snake]

Here's the latest....I replaced the stator, but it still does not have a spark at any cylinder.
I disconnected the kill wires plug and the stator to rectifier plug and it still does not have a spark.
I then tested for continuity again at the stator and timing ring and all readings are within specs.

However when testing between the white wire and all the other wires (blue, purple, green on each connector) for the timing ring,
I have noticed that those readings are good in one direction only and if I switch leads, then I get an open circuit like it has a diode in there. I don't see anything in the manual that says it will only read one direction. Have you seen this before? By the way, the white wire to blk/white wire on the other connector reads about 222 ohms either way so it's within spec.

[jay's snake]

Problem fixed..... I replaced the timing ring and the motor started, but 3 cylinders on one side were not firing. I ohmed the brown and brown/yellow leads from the stator and found one side was OK, but the other side was open. I swapped the brown leads and the 3 working cylinders moved to the other side. The new stator is bad (which I just purchased). I reinstalled the old stator and now it starts and runs on all 6 cylinders. The end result is the original stator was not bad and it was the timing ring that was bad instead.

After replacing the timing ring, I adjusted the throttle cable to slow down the idle and and I checked the timing. It is good at 4 ATDC at idle and 18 BTDC at wide open. I checked the plugs and they look a little oily, but overall they all look about the same. Everything looks good for now.

Thanks Championman and others who helped. I really appreciate your support!!