Will the "real" transom saver please stand up...

[PumaDave]

I always thought that a transom saver was designed to take weight specifically off of the transom, reduce the fatigue on it. If this is the case then I am confused by some of the different designs "transom savers" currently on the market.

The one I have for my cougar is the long pole that is secured on one end at the lower part of the lower unit while the other end fits into a rubber grommet
affixed to the trailer frame. This design takes the total weight of the lower unit and "rests" it on the trailer frame and hence takes much of the flexing weight
of the motor off of the transom.

Now I see other transom saver devices that you slip inbetween the upper part of the lower using and the motor/jackplate area. To me this design takes no weight what so ever off of the transom as the jackplate is still holding all of the weight which in turn transfers that weight to the transom that it is bolted to.

The reason I ask is that the long pole fork that I am using now gets the job done but is not as easy, fast and convenient as these new smaller devices you insert up high inbetween the lower unit and the jackplate. (actually the other part of the motor afixed to the jackplate.

Now, if these devices are just to take the stress off the motors "pivot" point then the new smaller devices would prolly be the ideal choice.

I would like to switch to the easier smaller devices but if it's going to compromise the "intended" purpose of a transom saver then I'll just keep what I have as
its not a big deal. Adding two pics to show each design.

You do realize your boat doesn't have a transom saver when running down the lake right? I've run the motor mate on my boats for several years with no issues. I just purchased the new RMP motor toter for my new Merc 250 Pro XS 4S. Awesome product and the rubber pads are replaceable.

[PMantle]

It's mostly about preventing the engine from damaging the mounts. Toters are trying to assist the engine in its goal. They do absolutely nothing beneficial.

[Hogbus]

I have a dd26? My dealer recommended when I ordered. I like it. Have used both styles for years. Basscat delivers their boats to dealers with a 2x4 wedged in. I’ll spend more time on tire pressure and bearings. Whoever is correct in this debate is only a slight winner. Pay attention to the stuff that matters. Carry on. Lol. JD

[John Jackson]

I wish some company would donate a couple transoms to test the different types. I also chuckle at all the “definitive” answers when no one has ever tested the two styles.

BCB as a company prefers the tradition motor support. It has also been stated that there have been very few issues with the new style and they were extreme travelers. I wish BCB would be more forthcoming with what those issues were. As a devil’s advocate, just because one is recommended, does not mean the other style is unuseable.

Why did my 2004 Nitro NX750 say to either trim the motor down or use a motor support? No mention of saving a transom that was not known to be the best. No mention of which style to use.

Why did my 1980s and 1990s Hydrasports only ever use the Evinrude fold down bracket. I towed all over the east coast...never a problem.

Why when I am at a Bassmasters event, the display boats all have a carpeted 2x4 as a motor support?

How many of you guys use lithium batteries on a Mercury ProXS 4s even though Mercury states you MUST use an AGM? The common retort is that “the pros use them without a problem.” Well, most pros use the new style. Are the pros good examples or not?

OBTW, a traditional toter hammered my LU in an auto accident when my boat slid 2-3 feet forward, crushing my supposed transom saver. It had to have tried to push the motor up and over the splashwell before failing.

My point is, that this is an endless debate without scientific testing and data. Until there is, no one knows which style is “the best.”Use the style you prefer. I will do the same. Modern and especially BCB transoms are tremendously strong. They do not need saving.

Read my post number 5. I have tested both types, and measured the transom deflection. And did this over a decade ago.

[Cajunhunter67]

Don, the motor mate is doing nothing for you, and possibly doing damage. When you use one, you have just secured the motor to itself .

The motor mate is doing exactly what I intended it to do. It keeps the motor from bouncing excessively and centered on the steering cylinder.
The motor mate secures the motor to the transom/JP mount. Not the motor itself. The difference between the long transom support and the motor mate is one is a hard point support the other allows flex on the trailer cross member.
BCB has always recommended the support to the trailer cross beam.
My perfect Transom support would be the Lou's Motor Toter which is the best of both the motor mate and long transom support, but I don't believe he is making them anymore.

Don

[PMantle]

No message

[Bass Cat Boats]

There have been many posts online with the opinion shared by Bass Cat. The new Mercury motors restricted the way a motor toter rested on the assembly. Lou quit building the motor toters as he was too busy, and now we have only the Swivel-Eze style available. The original style again won’t fit a new V6 or V8.

Motor mounts are not protected by the trim stop style, no matter which brand. Our goal is to protect the motor mounts and there have been several videos shot viewing both styles movements. It’s very obvious a full length toter moves less.

For some this becomes a matter of opinion and a hot topic for some reason. Just connect your GoPro to the cowling and boat filming the engine as it crosses railroad tracks, pot holes, and general rough road conditions. It will show you the engine movement and the more you drive the more movement wears on motor mounts.

Some brands are better than others and to determine motor mount wear, jiggle a loose motor on a new motor at the ramp, then walk up to an older motor of your buddies and jiggle that one. Do it on same brands of products as the SHO from day one is the same SHO mounting today. For Pro XS those are different, though you will still see the relationship of engine movement. The more the engines are used, the more you will see. Be that engine hours or road miles they only get those engine hours by towing them to the lakes more.

You will notice engines which have used a full length toter have less movement.
Again there has been a lot of information on this topic.

BCB

[Jigzz4344]

My personal experience:
- I had a 12 cougar that the motor mount broke on the motor(250 proxs). I noticed it after a weigh in one day. I have no idea how it happened and I know I did not hit anything. I was using the motor mate on my motor
- I have a 13 cougar that I use a Lou's motor tote. I love this saver and personally think it is the best. I will always take use a transom saver vs a motor mate style.
- I really like the Lous motor tote. Wish they still produced those.

That is my opinion and experience.

[Fishysam]

Interesting, BCB, I have yet to break a motor mount but people who use other kinds of motor toter style have. I'll probably look into this amongst my buddies and see if it lines up like I think it does.

[fishraptor]

Thanks to everyone who chimed in on my question. I found it most interesting and learned a bunch.
I keep hearing about how good Lou's Motor Tote was. Does anyone have any pics of one of these units as I would love to see it's design.

[catdude28]

IMG_0348.jpgHere is Lou's.

IMG_0351.jpg

[PMantle]

So, I google Lou's every once in a while just to see if i stumble upon a used one somewhere. I found an older thread here with some great posts by members. Here's some:

Here's the physics of this. You are trying to form a "truss" to support the motor.

Motormate = truss that has three beams. first is swivel bracket, second is motor mate, third is the motor-motor-mount-swivel connection. ALL movement of the motor is applied directly to the transom itself.

Traditional transom savor. Truss goes from bottom of trailer, to motor, to swivel bracket and back to trailer thru bunks/tie-downs. A much bigger truss, which also uses the frame of the trailer to assist with the shock loads.

The longer the sides of the truss, the more difficult it is to introduce any movement/flex. You can, if you want, just don't use anything. That STILL applies all of the force to the transom for less money. Of course the motor mounts and power trim hydraulics also will get a work-out. Motor-mate looks cool, but really does NOT do what we want to do, which is to remove stress from motor and transom. The transom on a cat is very strong, to say the least. But EVERYTHING fatigues if flexed enough. I'd prefer to avoid that as much as possible. I have seen more than one with motor mount failures when using motor-mates. A neighbor (now moved away) used to fish nearly every day and I helped him put three sets of upper motor mounts on his motor in a 2 year period. Had not noticed his motor-mate at all. Started to look on the 'net and discovered several were reporting this very same issue. He switched to a traditional transom saver and when he moved away last year, he had been on the same set of motor mounts for over three years. Where there's smoke, there's certainly fire. The Pro XS is a bit different animal regarding the upper mounts (the way they bolt to the exhaust plate which is usually what breaks). But things STILL break. I have been using a traditional transom-saver for 40+ years, never had a transom failure, a motor mount failure, or broken any part of the trim hydraulics. Some things are not worth changing, just to have something that looks a bit cleaner.

BTW if you don't like the transom saver scuff marks on the motor, easy fix. Disassemble the motor end, sand the rubber discs down a bit, then glue a 8" piece x 2" wide piece of bunk carpet to them. Zero scratches after that. You can even glue a piece around the inside of the other end to snug up the fit if you want.

BTW, to the previous poster, the LOWER mounts are not the issue. It is the uppers. Break 'em on a Pro XS and you will be out close to $1000.

Basic physics.
Old style forms a large triangle, so the trailer stops any bouncing and resulting stress on the transom. The Motormate style effectively does nothing, other than keeping the motor from falling if the trim/tilt hydraulics fail.

How can the motormate hold ANYTHING better? Smaller truss. ALL stress is contained in the swivel bracket and motor mounts. ALL shock loads go directly to the motor mounts and swivel bracket, with no trailer frame to help prevent the up/down movement on bumps...

There HAVE been side-by-side comparisons with respect to having to replace motor mounts more frequently. That's not anecdotal evidence at all.

The "it works for me" doesn't impress me very much. Perhaps you have a much smoother access between home and lake. All the motor mount woes I have read about (and seen more than once) leave me not so interested. Just looks wrong from an engineering perspective. LOT of weight on the end of that lever hanging off the transom. Much better to support the bottom of that lever by tying it to trailer which is tied to transom. Very rigid.

Originally Posted by Bass Cat Boats
Actually there is a service only dealership in the east Texas market that works on several touring FLW pros rigs. They were having motor mount challenges with other motor toters every year towards the end of the season. They now use full motor toters and have not replaced mounts in what is now their third season of full toters.

Full thread here: http://www.bbcboards.net/showthread.php?t=820713

[Crappie Bob]

I think a lot has to do with how far you tilt your motor up. If you watch it as you tilt it the power head is moving in and over the transom which balances it more or less on the transom. The heaviest part of it is the powerhead, the shaft and foot are much less in total relation to it overall. I have always believed that with it balanced so on the transom, ANYTHING that will keep it from bouncing and wobbling is a help. I have followed for years people pulling a boat with the straps not correctly secured, and some with out any at all and watched the motor totter stick pry the motor foot up and down as the boat left the trailer. But it's like, Coke & Pepsi, Ford & Chevy and all the others it will never be solved in this life time. As for me, I do as my wife will let me

[PaulPbass]

It is too bad that there is no longer the opportunity to get a Lou's motor support made for the Merc 4-Stroke ProXS. With regards to the Swiveleze brand there are 2 lengths available
32-42 and 44-56. Which works better with the ProXS on a BassCat?

[Cajunhunter67]

I believe the misunderstanding is the term "Transom saver". It gives the intent that the support is protecting the transom.
As BCB stated, its all about the motor mounts.

I may look into seeing if a local shop can make me something similar to the Lou's support.
My wife uses the boat while I'm away.
Calls me in Africa panicking that she launched the boat and cant steer it. She forgot to move the steering clips. Thus the motor mate.

Don

[PMantle]

[06 SB]

What is the point of that video on this thread? It has several contradictions in it. The self proclaimed “old school” guy says newer transoms do not need much support but wood ones do. Then, he puts a pulls a damaged composite transom (from an impact) but replaces it with a wooden transom which he believes is stronger.

There is evidence supporting both types of supports. You prefer the old school type. That is fine. The newer style has been around long enough that if there were issues, they would have shown out by now. At this point, this debate is what we in the Navy used to call a self-sucking vibrator. It rattles around, makes noise, attracts attention but in the end does no one any good and solves nothing.

[PMantle]

There is evidence supporting both types of supports.

No, there is not.

The newer style has been around long enough that if there were issues, they would have shown out by now

And they have. BCB has posted this.

It's odd how angry you get over people trying to actually help you.

[06 SB]

I guess you can add ESP to your resume to be able to read that I am angry. I actually find these debates entertaining and funny. Folks, and especially you, believe they are absolutely right when there has never been a single scientific study completed. I have said over and over again, there are advantages and drawbacks to both. Pick one and use it. You are the one that is constantly trying to prove your point, when you cannot. I find that funny.

[PMantle]

. You are the one that is constantly trying to prove your point, when you cannot. I find that funny.

So mad