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  1. #1
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    Jan 2017
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    Alabama
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    deck extension for '92 ls180

    I have looked at doing this for a while now, but had also considered just getting a newer boat too. After getting some sticker shock on the big uptick in boat prices as of late, I think its time to poop or get off the pot on making a deck extension. The boat still runs well on the 150 rude, and got a fortrex and new graphs in last few years and fishes well, but would like more room like most newer boats.

    I have searched the posts I can find of this but most that used to show pics are not showing up now. Anyone still have some pics they can post or pm me?

    I am currently looking at using a treated 2x8 ripped down to 2x2"s for framework, and a sheet of either 1/2 or 3/4 (unsure if 1/2 has enough support) treated plywood, for top and sides. I have also considered an aluminum plate as well for tops. My rough plan in my head is to do a 12-15" wide or so section next to rod locker for a step area, and make the rest flush with front deck, both with hinges for storage underneath. I think for now I will build it carpet ready, but use grip tape for traction now, and redo full carpet on boat in next year or so, its showing some age after 28 years.I am also considering seadek for the extension as well, since its supposed to dry quicker and give me a lil cushion when sitting on it to retie.
    Last edited by junyer357; 02-15-2021 at 10:38 AM.

  2. Member
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
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    Tazewell Tn.
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    #2
    Get on "tiny boat nation.com" and see what those guys are doing. I would use aluminum angle and square tubing for the frame and 3/16 aluminum plate for the deck.

  3. Member
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    Jan 2017
    Location
    Alabama
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    #3
    ive looked at using the aluminum angle and tubing, but it would greatly increase my costs with out a big weight savings. I am only wanting a small extension to fill the space between the existing deck and console, not build a whole new deck. What I have in mind is around $75-100 in materials plus seadek costs for treated wood, for alumimum it was looking to be nearly double that. I also have access to a wood shop with nail guns, planers, table saws, etc. to do wood work, all I have for metal is a sawzall and battery drill.

  4. Member
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    Feb 2006
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    Tazewell Tn.
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    #4
    Buy a rivet tool and you'll be set for aluminum. It's not hard to work with but if you do go with wood do not use nails, use screws only.

  5. Member
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    Jan 2017
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    Alabama
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    #5
    I have decided to go the aluminum route after all. I am going to try and remember to take pics to post as i go along. My plan is to use 1/8 thick 1.5" wide angle and 3/4 tubing for frame, and 1/8 plate with seadek for the top, all riveted together. It looks to add about 14-15" of deckspace, plus a better step up to the deck. Going to leave it open to back side, but add hinged lids to top part so i dont lose access and storage. I also am thinking i can add a hinge to the step as well, and build a removeable tray for line, trash, etc.. I am going to make a fiberglass sandwich of sorts for the support frame with stainless machine screws going through the angle, then fiberglass, and a 1/16" backer plate on backside to help spread pressure over a larger area of fiberglass than just the screw and washer.

  6. Member
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    Feb 2006
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    Tazewell Tn.
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    #6
    If you use the 3/16 aluminum you won't need any extra support for a 14" span.