Thermostat cleaning when motor is warm to the touch.??

[fishin couillon]

Serial #2B089362 Pro XS 200

Always have cleaned them when motor had not been ran for days/weeks. Today got trash in them, came home and decided to clean. Motor was warm to the touch (about an hr. Since I had cut it off and drove home), relieved fuel rail pressure, loosened bottom fuel rail nut, proceed to top nut, rail still straight and didn't move.... As top nut got loose enough I heard a pop and bottom of rail pull away from head (slight gap).....nut was still on stud......

I"ve done it at the ramp before after it wouldnt warm up and didnt get that "pop".......


Am I correct in saying this was just built up pressure? Scared to touch it now.... This was on the starboard side fuel rail....

One other thing, there is a gap between the grey collar a fuel rail....not sure if its been like that or not. THis with the rails properly torqued......

[JOE54]

always relieve pressure on air side before removing rail if engine has been started , dont be scard just a lil poot when you loosened rails check all the o rigs and wake sure rails are seated against injectors no gaps before torque

[fishin couillon]

always relieve pressure on air side

Are you referring to the fuel rail pressure?? Or something else??

[JOE54]

air psi /air side of system not fuel psi, valve on port rail

[fishin couillon]

Gotcha.....

Hopefully last question....Orings, does require whole rail coming off to check them?? If so, not sure about doing that my self so may just bring to shop to get them checked. I've never taken a the rails off....

[EuropeanAM]

If you remove the nuts from the retaining studs, you can slide the rail back far enough to inspect the large (inlet) o-ring on the DI's (Direct Injectors). That would be the o-ring that would normally sustain damage if you had not relieved air pressure on the PORT side rail (air pressure).

[fishin couillon]

I'll try to take a look at it this evening.......i can kick myself in the azz for doing this with fishing things starting off in the next few weekends.....

[fishin couillon]

Update: After looking at pics on the net, i now see that there are two "injectors".......fuel injector and air injector (DI) and understand how they are in place.......pulled the rail back more and was able to see that the o-ring on the D.I. did "bust".......i'll be making an appointment with the local shop to get o-ring replaced....

[JOE54]

now see that wasnt so hard was it

[fishin couillon]

No but anything i touch can break as you can see.....

[JOE54]

and there aint nothin on it we cant fix as YOU can see

[JOE54]

if ya wanta drag it up here next week call me ill fix it in about 15 min ........ FREEEEEEE

[fishin couillon]

FREEEE!!! To bad i dont live that close to you, i'd be there already......

[EuropeanAM]

Easy fix.

[JOE54]

very ^^^^ yes sir

[dblume]

What should the fuel rail be torqued at? I always just snugged them with a wrench.

[bb45]

35 ft. lbs.. i believe

[EuropeanAM]

35 lbs/ft

[fishin couillon]

What is the difficulty level on doing this o-ring replacement?? Shop told me they order the parts almost 3 weeks ago and are waiting for them to come in. Not sure whats going one with them.

Any step by step instructions some has??Does the direct injector need to come out or just push that one o-ring on and that's it?

[EuropeanAM]

Approximately "4-5" on a 10-scale to replace both o-rings on each DI.

The direct injectors must be removed if replacing both o-rings. Wise to do this if for no other reason than to inspect for any pieces or shards of old o-rings.

If you're having difficulty getting the o-rings, we keep a top-quality o-ring in stock for each side of the DI (better than the OEM even). See Rhonda's post at the top of the Forum for Parts Department contact info.