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  1. #1
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    fixing bent skeg

    Anyone ever fix a bent skeg? Probably an inch off of center or more.

  2. Member
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    #2
    Mine was bent at a 90 degree angle. I went to the local fiberglass shop. The owner cut it off and welded a new one on. I asked about ruining the seals and he said it was far enough down, that it shouldn't. It did, but I got skeg replaced and then the seals and back in business.

  3. RIP Evinrude 1907-2020 JR19's Avatar
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    #3
    Mine had a slight bend near the tip from a light impact with floating tree limb. I took two small 2X4's and placed them on each side of the skeg. Then I attached two C clamps and added tension. At first I got it good and snug, then every day for the next week or so I would add more tension. After about a week or so I removed it and the majority of the bend was gone. I don't know if that will work in your case but you could give it a try.

  4. Member Boatseller's Avatar
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    #4
    Quote Originally Posted by dricha21 View Post
    Anyone ever fix a bent skeg? Probably an inch off of center or more.
    Small piece of 2x4 on one side and hit with rubber hammer gently on opposite side. Repeat until straight. Good Luck


  5. Member
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    #5
    First question: Is it bothering you, other than appearance? If not, leave it alone. Be aware that some Yamaha's come with a kinked skeg as manufactured.

    If it is causing some handling or performance issues, I've done a bunch of them with JR19 and Boatseller's method. They work. I'm impatient. I clamp 2 - 2 x 4's per JR19 and then beat on them. I have broken one off. Just said to heck with it and ran without it.

    Depends on the boat and motor and the speed you attain. Obviously the faster you go, the more concern.

  6. Member pavi69's Avatar
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    #6
    Quote Originally Posted by teamplayer View Post
    Mine was bent at a 90 degree angle. I went to the local fiberglass shop. The owner cut it off and welded a new one on. I asked about ruining the seals and he said it was far enough down, that it shouldn't. It did, but I got skeg replaced and then the seals and back in business.
    I had the same thing done to my lower unit except I did not have the seals replaced. Water got in and destroyed the lower unit. Don't underestimate how hot the metal gets when being welded.
    The oil was burnt so badly it had a really strong burnt smell.

    P01135809

  7. Member
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    #7
    Cut and weld is the method recommended by shops. I used the block of wood and mallet method before with great success. I figured if it broke then I would have it welded back on.
    ciao,
    Marc

  8. Member
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    #8
    Quote Originally Posted by Boatseller View Post
    Small piece of 2x4 on one side and hit with rubber hammer gently on opposite side. Repeat until straight. Good Luck
    Agree doesn't take alot of force, start with small blows and take your time. Have done this a couple of different times with success.

  9. Member PowerFish's Avatar
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    #9
    Hammer and Dolly, don't try to pry it over, just beat it back into place.
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  10. Moderator Fishysam's Avatar
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    #10
    What horse power we taking about and what speeds to you achieve? Exceed 40mph and loose the skeg = being like Ike or one of the others who sadly end up in the trees. Mercury would suggest a new case welding on as not recommended. Possibly insurance claim? Up to you, use this information to look into your options.
    Mercury 250 proxs 2B115089

  11. Member SPOTREMOVER2's Avatar
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    #11
    SAME HERE.....................

    I had the same thing done to my lower unit except I did not have the seals replaced. Water got in and destroyed the lower unit. Don't underestimate how hot the metal gets when being welded.
    The oil was burnt so badly it had a really strong burnt smell.
    2006 Triton TR186, 175 Optimax,

  12. Member
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    Paducah, Ky.
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    #12
    Yes had it cut off and weld new one on. My local dealership knew a guy.

  13. Member lpugh's Avatar
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    #13
    Quote Originally Posted by Fishysam View Post
    What horse power we taking about and what speeds to you achieve? Exceed 40mph and loose the skeg = being like Ike or one of the others who sadly end up in the trees. Mercury would suggest a new case welding on as not recommended. Possibly insurance claim? Up to you, use this information to look into your options.
    This is the best advice on here, welding can be fatal
    If this risk was only you you, do what yo want however it could involve others, Would yo want this on your conscious
    Thank You Leon Pugh

  14. Member wmitch2's Avatar
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    #14
    Where is it bent ? The whole skagg or just the bottom tip ? If it's far enough down that the majority is still straight, you can cut it off at the bend and install a Skagg Guard and it will work perfectly and not be visible.
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  15. Banned
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    #15
    they use to sell a tool just for that, I think there's some videos on YT.

  16. Member
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    #16
    Regarding would you want that on your conscience.....Good Lord....That's a little dramatic. It's a bent skeg...not a nuclear warhead.
    2017 18trx, 200 proxs serial 2B401503

  17. Member lpugh's Avatar
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    #17
    Quote Originally Posted by beagledogxxx View Post
    Regarding would you want that on your conscience.....Good Lord....That's a little dramatic. It's a bent skeg...not a nuclear warhead.
    Would you drive a car with a welded or straightened front spindle at high speed, not at all dramatic, it is an unacceptable risk
    Thank You Leon Pugh

  18. Member
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    #18
    I’m missing about half of mine and I can tell a bit of difference. Can you tell a difference in how it is handling??

  19. Member
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    #19
    Place a block of steel on each side.. mount a series of c-clamps down the blocks( 3) apply heat, slowly crank the clamps in sequence until it is straight. Seals can be kept cool with ice. Cut a slit in a towel .pull the slit over the skeg..fill with ice ..tie towel tight and use bungees to hold up. Place small tray below to catch what melts. Slow and steady wins the race.. same method with blocs parallel to get a twist out. This also may require two pipe wrenches on the steel blocks for leverage to “twist”.. don’t forget the ice

  20. Member
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    #20
    Place a block of steel on each side.. mount a series of c-clamps down the blocks( 3) apply heat, slowly crank the clamps in sequence until it is straight. Seals can be kept cool with ice. Cut a slit in a towel .pull the slit over the skeg..fill with ice ..tie towel tight and use bungees to hold up. Place small tray below to catch what melts. Slow and steady wins the race.. same method with blocs parallel to get a twist out. This also may require two pipe wrenches on the steel blocks for leverage to “twist”.. don’t forget the ice

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